1990 Mazda RX-7 GXL
 

Hi,
i just joined this site and own a Mazda RX-7 GXL that I bought new in 1990 and still own it. I drove it very very little and over the last 5 years I rarely started it and as I kept trying to start it got harder and harder to start and I did not realize it but the battery was bad. I noticed toward the end of trying to start it on this old 7 year old battery that I would get a clicking sound and it did not turn over any longer. Still not knowing it was the battery that was dead, I continued to try to start it and eventually there was NO SOUND AT ALL and I turned the key and nothing happened aside from dim lights on the control panel. So I decided to get a new battery. NOW, the lights are super bright and everything like AC and sunroof work BUT when I turn the key NOTHING HAPPENS....no clicking, no starting at all. Did I ruin the ignition by trying hundreds and literally hundreds of times trying to get the car to turn over in the past with that old dead battery? Can some one help me and point me in the right direction on what I should do first to see what the problem(s) are now that I let my car sit for so long and probably damaged it in someway!?
Thanks and I hope you can assist me. I do NOT know cars that well, BUT I can do what I am instructed to do and am very good working with my hands on projects. I have changed the oil, air filter, gas filter, change spark plugs, made sure the gas pump was working, and the like, BUT I need to be instructed in more Lay terms to understand car lingo.
Thanks.
David

Welcome to the board. :)

First, you should try turning the engine by hand. Get a 19 and turn the main bolt clockwise. If it turns fine, then I would next turn my attention to the starter itself.


EDIT:

It's a good idea to put some oil into the chambers before turning the engine since it's been sitting so long. The spark plug holes are probably going to be your best induction point for your car.

Hi Diabolical1. Thanks so much for your reply to my inquiry. I truly appreciate it! I just tried what you said and it turns clockwise with no problems. Now let's turn our attention elsewhere. What do you suggest I do next? Again, I DIO NOT KNOW CARS WELL so you will have to speak yo me in lay mans terms. Is there a way that one of those fuses in the small box could have blown? If so, how would I know?
Again, the history is that I tried so so many times to start I when IT WAS cranking with a bad battery and had to keep my foot way down on the peddle with many many RPMs to allow it to continue running. Once I let down on the peddle, it stalled out and it was hard to get it started again. I should have realized the battery was dying or was just about dead BUT stupidly I keep trying to start the damn car and as time when on I got a clicking sound and then eventually as I turned the key, NO SOUND. So what is your next suggestion? Lay mans terms ONLY. Please? ��
I thank you for your expertise and caring. You are the ONLY person that replied to me!
Awaiting your next reply.
David

No problem :) I will try to help as much as I am able.

Okay, so we now know the engine turns. You will now want to turn your attention to the starter.

First download a copy of the FSM: --> Foxed.ca and it can't hurt to get a Haynes manual, too.

Second, make sure - absolutely sure - that the battery terminals are clean and tight. If that still doesn't cause any movement when you try to start it, then go down to the starter and check all connections there. Make sure they are clean an tight as well. If you still don't get get any signs of turning, then check the switch at the clutch pedal.

Here is a thread that might be useful: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...stions-909234/

And here is the search page with some other threads (includes the one above): https://www.rx7club.com/search.php?searchid=15570066

If everything checks out with the relay and clutch switch, then pull the starter and bench test it (or have it tested somewhere).

Was wondering if there were any updates on this. I would like to help but we need to know if the battery terminals are clean and tight and if the warning lights on the information display turn off when attempting to crank the engine.

Hi,
Thanks for the note. On Thursday I will try doing what you suggested and get back to you. I really appreciate your help.
david

Hi,
Thanks so much once again. Today I did what you suggested. I got in the car, closed the door, put the key in. Turned it to the first position and ONLY the clock LED light went on. Then in the second position all the red lights came on on the front control panel. Then when I went to Try to crank it, all the lights stayed on and the brake light(which was NOT ON in position #2) also came on and there was no cranking and essentially NOTHING occurred.
Now, as far as the new battery I just bought and the connection to the terminals, I have a question. You asked and many people I told about this asked "make sure the battery terminals are clean and there is a good contact." My question is this, IF all lights are bright, the head lamps go up and down quickly and the lights work, the sunroof operates perfectly and fast, can't I assume the battery is connected correctly and there is no need to check the connection again?? Or, do you know something here I am blind to and can it be that even if everything operates and the car does not turn over that the battery terminals STILL can be NOT tightly connected well enough? Even if the battery meter in the car at the left shows greater than or equal to 12 VOLTS?
Awaiting your reply and what your answers to my questions are above ans what you feel the next step should be? I appreciate your help and expertise because I am cueless.
David

PS. By the way, this is a 5 speed and of course I am depressing the clutch all the way down when attempting the cranking as usual.

Sent you a pm. We can figure this out!!

not necessarily. there is a reason that the starter uses the thickest wires in the whole car. it draws the most current, and any resistance or point of discontinuity will likely prevent it from engaging - even if the other things in the car work just fine. checking all the connections, at all the points between the battery and the starter costs you nothing but time.

Hi,

Thanks for the input and kind reply. So IF I simply use a voltmeter and touch it to the two connectors that attach to the battery terminals and it reads 12 or more volts, does that mean the connections are strong enough? If not, how exactly do I make sure the connections are tight enough? I already cleaned the connectors with baking soda and water and there is now battery acid or corrosion anywhere you can see with the naked eye. Th connectors were tight as can be on the terminals such that they are almost impossible to get off now. Thoughts?

I would say that the cables are more than tight enough on the terminals. You don't want to overtighten them and crunch the cable ends.

Using a multimeter across the battery terminals will only measure battery voltage.

You'll need another person to help you check for 12V at the signal wire on the starter. You will want to make sure you are getting 12V present at that wire when the ignition switch is switched to the start position. Its the single wire that has a single female pin that connects to the starter solenoid. I have seen corrosion for there and I have seen the wire wiggle off. That's a viable place to check. The starter is bolted to the bellhousing section of the transmission, on the lower portion on the driver's side. I am out of town currently so I am unable to snap a pic and send it your way for reference.

yes, the top sounds like you're okay. now, turn your attention to the bottom. if you trace your positive cable, it should lead you to the main post on the starter motor. if you follow your negative cable it should lead you first to a spot in the engine bay on the frame rail, then on to the lowest bolt that connects the engine to the transmission on the driver's side - it also helps to hold the starter in place.

in the event that you have no reference materials yet, your best view of the starter will be if you get the front of the car up on stands. once you have the car safely supported (and wheels blocked, etc.) then you'll need to slide under the driver's side of it, just behind where you traced the negative cable. the solenoid wire that Mazdaverx713b referred to will be slightly obscured by the starter body itself, but as he said, you'll be looking for a single female pin.

You probably checked, but you are sure the switch that the clutch activates is good and not blocked? I hate to admit it but when I first got my fc, I spent hours in a Walmart parking lot, with groceries getting warm/defrosting, begging a jump then trying to troubleshoot my starter. The issue was my floormat had scooted forward enough to stop the activation of the switch.

At last, I got a mechanic over that is very well versed in RX7s and even drove his over to help me out. The results: the clutch and switch are perfect and no issues. The starter was blown from trying to start it so many times with a dying battery so I bought a new Wilson Starter today and he replaced it. Still did not start. He ruled out the Alternator and said it is perfectly new with no issues, he did many many other tests with his Voltmeter/Ammeter on many other parts and components that could be related to this problem and he concluded he is 99% sure the ignition switch is also shot and said in trying to start is so many times with a dying battery, I blew the starter(now replaced and brand new) and the ignition switch. Here is my problem. He rarely touches replacing ignition switches and said it is time consuming and he has no time. SO! He suggested, AND I AM OPPOSED TO THIS BECAUSE I DO NOT WANT MY CAR OUT OF MY POSESSION NOR DO I WANT IT FLAT BEDDED FOR LIKE $400, that I get it to Gooby Performance North of the border of New Jersey in NY state. I want input on what to do now. He said if I want to keep the same keys that I should call Mazda in the area and see if they can make me the cylinder that I assume has the switch in or on it??? That way I can use the same keys?? I am confused at this part and need to know how to proceed with this ignition switch blown issue and be hand held every step of the way....PLEASE HELP and PLEASE kindly write in detail for a person that does not know this part of the car at all. As much as u can advise me the better. Thanks and I await your reply.
David New Jersey

hi dave. sorry ur having so much trouble getting the car running. sounds like that rx7 mechanic was expecting an easy trouble shoot and didn't really want to be bothered with a whole lot of diagnostic work. check the regional section of the forum and find someone more competent to help. https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/

googled shops in nj if needed. hope they're not too far from ur location.

https://www.google.com/search?client...+in+new+jersey

Thanks for that indormation on RX-7 mechanics in the area. The closest ones are one far North and one far South; the first was the one I mentioned over the boarder of Nj and NY and a flat bed is over $400 or either location. I am really looking for someone like the mechanic that came over today. He DID in fact to serious troubleshooting and knew it was starter and /or ignition switch and after replacing the starter today he showed me how it was IN FACT shot, so he is probably right after all the troubleshooting he did that the ignition switch is in fact the last issue left and it would make sense that both the starter and ignition switch blew after all the hundreds of times I cranked and cranked this car never realizing that damn battery was dying!