13b n/a idling died won't start PLEASE HELP
 

so i have a 91 vert with 150,000 miles rebuilt at belive at 100,000 (only had it a couple months so far) i was idling at a stop light holding rmps at 2500 because it sometimes wants to die when idling. (it starts right up when cold but ive been having to bump start when hot MOST of the time. ) so i was idling at stop light at 2500rpm at it just died out of no where me and my buddy were able to bumpstart then i went to take off and it died again but this time it would not bumpstart and the engie cranks adnormaly slow. ive gone threw and tested the entire eletrical system (alternatior, battery, wiring, starter) so its has to something internal. idk how an n/a would blow up at 2500 rpm but idk what is wrong PLEASE help:dunno:

welcome to the board. :)

confirm the basics: fuel, spark and compression. you might want to start with the compression.

I think it the compression cause it exactly what happen to mine. Time to rebuild

that what im thinking but im not sure whats making it crank exstemly slow when i turn the starter. something is inturnaly binding (its not clutch or trans) but i dont see how u blow seals at 2500 rpm any ideas?

Any motor can blow at any rpm, especially if it was rebuilt once, and done wrong, motors have ate a seal just turning over to start

What is a good way to check compression with out the starter? The starter gets hot as soon as you engage it and too hot to touch and the solenoid wire begins to smoke after 5 seconds of cranking.

^ what he said.

... besides, something was wrong with it before this happened because the whole reason you were trying to maintain 2500 RPM is because it wouldn't idle to begin with. you also mentioned hot start issues which can go hand in hand with low compression in some situations (but don't rule out leaky injectors though).

make sure there's no short circuit/inappropriate grounding.

im looking at rebuild kits any suggestions ?
i dont think leaky injectors cause i dont think that would cause it to just die while running

what would cause it to crank so slow (no eletrical trust me spent all night rewiring with 2 gauge )
maybe a sal blew and is jamming inturnaly
piolet bearing is seases idk

it would idle just at about 500 rpm kinda low. but if your driving and go to nutral rpm drop and raise back up to idle or would die out sometime,

they are by no means all that is out there, but Atkins will probably be a good choice (maybe a few changes here and there).

i was referring specifically to the hot start issue. nothing else.

you mentioned that the starter itself is getting hot in a few seconds and that there is smoke coming off the solenoid wire. it's an electrical issue. period. you have overlooked something. if you were constantly cranking without letting it cool in between, then you could caused some damage.

there are a few possibilities for what you describe (electrical issue, sensor issues, needs a tuneup, etc.). really not worth speculating until you get the engine fired again. so it's moot.

however, to answer your earlier question, you will need a functioning starter to run an actual compression test. so go over your wiring - post what you did if you don't mind getting help - and then check the starter itself.

You can try to rotate the engine by hand to see how smoothly or hard it is to do. The smoother the better, the harder not so better.

If your engine is hard to rotate then possibly that could be causing issues with your starter as it is being overworked and struggling to rotate the engine properly.

a bit of tunnel vision on my part ... Satch's scenario fits just as good and his advice is sound.

i have an extra s4 rngine laying around and i turn the excentic shaft bolt it turns easy n ow my s5 (the one ima having problems with) that in the car i try and turn and it much harder to turn.

engine will not craank fastenough to fire and will not bump start. and trust me broits not eletrical invested hours going threw in hopes i dont have to rebulid (its my daily driver) ive ran brand new 2 gauge wire to the starter from battery ive added extra grounds to engine and frame. i first assumed it to be electrical because ive already had electrical issues in the past. ive had battery alternatior and starter tested they all passes 3/3 times wiring and grouds are more than solid.
buddy at autozone was saying it could be seized piolet bearing or any bearings for that matter but im not so sure as too that wouldent cause it to be suddinly die wile being held at 2500 rpm

oh and one funny thing it was doing leading up to the death is while its idling i push in the clutch (still in nuetral) it would bog and die out

one rebulid kit has rotor bearings and the other dosent how important are they to change becaue the adkins incleds them but racing beat dosent. thanks for the help guys.

if you're going to build on any kind of fixed or conservative budget, then it's probably best if you pull the engine apart and see what you need before committing to a kit. rotor bearings are one of the things that can oftentimes be reused, but obviously you can't make a judgment on yours until you see them.