Wont idle on its own till thermostat opens.
 

Just as the title states. 12a Semi p bridgeport.

Has done this since the day I purchased used. It was a basket case of issues, but all have been ironed out. This is the last odd ball thing, I hope :)

Only realized it yesterday, but it would never want to idle "cold". Always had to keep my foot into it lightly to keep it from stalling. If I raised the idle, it would just idle high when warm. I just figured it was a "race engine" thing :)

As soon as the thermostat opens, as seen on the gauge, (temp drops dramatically), idle immediately is fine, no longer have to give it a bit of gas.

Gauge is correct, and verified with ir gun. Gets up to about 205 f, then drops to 180 f.

Should I have a cooler therm in there. I do drive it hard. But temps dont climb over 200 unless super long pulls. But it drops right back down. Super long like, holding it at 130,40,50, and stopping/slowing as traffic allows.

Maybe drill a bigger bleeder hole in the therm?

What say you?

Will never see cold weather.

That's kind of odd that it overshoots the thermostat opening that much.

What kind of thermostat is it? Is the bypass in the water pump housing plugged off or is the foot on the thermostat still functional?

I drill a 1/8" hole at the highest point in my thermostat to ensure no air pockets form near there. Used to have problems with the thermostat sticking closed until I hit the housing with a hammer, until I started doing that.

Thanks for the response.

I have not looked at how the thermostat is situated. It acts like it is just a standard/unmodified one.

I will pick up a 165f, and swap it and report back with my findings.

I always drill a bleed hole, as I come from volkswagens, and they always need it!

Just wanted to ask the question before I moved forward. Could of been a normal thing that I didnt know about.

I was thinking along the lines of p-port, and the blocked water jackets, causing too much internal pressure when therm is closed, and putting enough strain on the drive train to affect the idle.

What the f do I know :)

I was paying attention to the computer screen, when I picked up my gatorade and gave it a quick shake before I drank it.

Well, the top was off, an now Im covered in gatorade...WTF...

I hate rotary's.

Sounds like you just need a slight break from thinking about it. Last time I checked Gatorade didn't have any premix so no need to shake!

It had pre game in it :) Lol.

Just a weird thought, I was wondering if the bypass port was plugged off, the top of the engine was staying cool, meaning more fuel wet-out and lean running and holding the idle up compensates for the erratic mixture, until finally the thermostat opened due to convection from the block and hot coolant finally made it up to the top of the engine.

It's certainly a weird issue, and I think overshooting the temp like that is a clue-by-four. What it means, I'm uncertain.

It is possible to make it through 1 weekend without the threat of catastrophic failure with this turd...


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Guess whats almost impossible to find...m16 aluminum bungs...

found a 6an to m16 fitting. So just going to cut off the 6an end.

Take it apart. Do it again... its like owning a VW :)


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*edit*

nm, you meant female bung, I was thinking "fitting", male to male

Anyway, if you are going to cut it off, perhaps put an easier located thread pitch, and then change the adapter fitting to the hose end. So instead of that obscure M16 to -10an male to male fitting, you can use a 10 ORB to -10AN fitting.

Or whatever you decide.

I know...but Im being lazy.

If I make it directly to an the line will be short, and Im lazy.

So, the thermostat housing was 100% stock/unmodified.

Had a fail safe 180 deg. thermostat in there. Replaced with a 170, and it still does the same thing...weird.

Now it has low compression hot, and wont start with out oil...Good thing I have a decent job :)

Bought springs and a basic close up set. We'll see what it looks like when I crack her open.