s4 13b na carbed
#1
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s4 13b na carbed
well the title says it but i need to gather some info i have searched countless times and couldnt find the answers im looking for. now is there anyone who has done this before ? how did u route the wiring for it i now the engine harness wont be used and one is created to work with the switch from injected to old school carb. also does anyone have a s4 rear counter weight by chance? im currently in the process of making my own unique seven yea the na guys get knocked on but im off the speed trip and on a more stance and different kinda aura , anyways enough of my jabbering i want to create a entire write up to help future s4 na carb builders as i couldnt find none...
#2
Keep following this thread. https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/jetting-dcoe-48-13b-931661/ I will be posting some pics and information about jetting a weber 48 dcoe! ...but really there are a lot of threads on here about carbs. Check out ausrotary.com as well. That forum also has a lot of info about the subject.
I am in the process of doing this conversion. What you need are the following:
A carb (Duh...).There most popular options out there are A holley carb, Weber IDA (downdraft) or Weber DCOE (sidedraft). For a Weber IDA 48 or 51(bored out 48). You will need a Weber IDA intake manifold.For a Weber DCO 45/48 yould need an upper manifold for a sidedraft carb. These bolt on to stock lower intake manifold.
Checkout the racingbeat website!!! You will have to decide what you want. For a 13B the minimum would be a Weber DCOE 48. If your going to port your engine go for an IDA 48 or 51.
You will need a fuel pressure regulator that lowers the fuel pressure to 3.5 - 5 psi. I run an automotive efi to carb fpr.
Since we are getting rid of the efi system you'll need something for the ignition . Get a dizzy from an 85 13b. Read the following article by Paul Yaw to setup direct spark with a MSD .
http://www.rhinoracing.com/yaw/ignition.htm
That's about it generally .
I am in the process of doing this conversion. What you need are the following:
A carb (Duh...).There most popular options out there are A holley carb, Weber IDA (downdraft) or Weber DCOE (sidedraft). For a Weber IDA 48 or 51(bored out 48). You will need a Weber IDA intake manifold.For a Weber DCO 45/48 yould need an upper manifold for a sidedraft carb. These bolt on to stock lower intake manifold.
Checkout the racingbeat website!!! You will have to decide what you want. For a 13B the minimum would be a Weber DCOE 48. If your going to port your engine go for an IDA 48 or 51.
You will need a fuel pressure regulator that lowers the fuel pressure to 3.5 - 5 psi. I run an automotive efi to carb fpr.
Since we are getting rid of the efi system you'll need something for the ignition . Get a dizzy from an 85 13b. Read the following article by Paul Yaw to setup direct spark with a MSD .
http://www.rhinoracing.com/yaw/ignition.htm
That's about it generally .
#3
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i got everything ready to rock and roll just yanked the engine harness and was wondering if i had to use anything off of it lol, this is a new platform for me being an nissan 240 sx owner for quite sometime build and drifted them played with the ka ca sr and rb motors so the rx to me would be fun and something different but im locked on that thread tho
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Yea I am just about ready to start wrenching on it today. Another question how did u do ur wiring for , I was a nissan head before and now I'm on the mazda platform help me out ill be posting pics ofthe set soon ...........
Stay tuned to be continued
Stay tuned to be continued
#16
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I have a 48 DCOE. I've only seen a few for sale over the years. Get yourself a distributor from an 81-85 12A engine. Drops right in an S4 or S5 engine. Since the leading and trailing coil packs aren't used you can use those to power your 12A coil and fuel pump. Use a test light to find the correct ones from the harness that use to plug into the coil packs. I wired my fuel pump on a relay so I don't have to mess with a toggle. The toggle switch is cool in a race car but I avoid them in daily drivers. Mallory makes a nice FPR. Don't remember the model number but google it and it will be pretty obvious from the description which one will work.
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i tried looking up fsms and what not but its like the way they label them is weird , what wires or wire colours am i going to use ? even with the alternator i look at the fsm and its different im confused here, now with all that said and done the oil meter in the oil pand im as lost as can be motor is in and everything is there its just the wiring im a lil sumped about i mean any info will be taken into consideration but wtf i need a bail out
#20
Hello guys got my car running this week! It's still not tuned yet. I need to get richer 65f9 idle jets.
I started with the following jetting:
Idle jet's : 65f8
Pump Jet: 45
Main jet:210mm Air Corrector Jet:180mm
Emulsion Tube : F11
Started up right away.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONc-yjN5VvU
I started with the following jetting:
Idle jet's : 65f8
Pump Jet: 45
Main jet:210mm Air Corrector Jet:180mm
Emulsion Tube : F11
Started up right away.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONc-yjN5VvU
#22
If it dies of it means that it's not getting enough fuel. Check your fuel pressure. I got mine set at 5 psi. And then check your idle screws on your carb, from nearly all the way closed open it up about 1 and a half turn. If the car starts idling after 4 turns of the idle screw you need richer idle jets.
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Just curious why everyone pulls the fc ecu. From what i understand you can use the ecu to run the ignition side of the engine just fine with the carb and not have to switch to a dizzy. I'm strongly considering doing it this way especially since i need the factory ecu for smog every two years .
#25
Just curious why everyone pulls the fc ecu. From what i understand you can use the ecu to run the ignition side of the engine just fine with the carb and not have to switch to a dizzy. I'm strongly considering doing it this way especially since i need the factory ecu for smog every two years .