Wiring Tranny for 3rd Gen Microtech LT10s
 

Anyone know what the deal is for the tranny on a Microtech LT10s on a FD? The computer has no inputs according to the wiring diagram.

http://www.microtech-efi.com/downloads/12.pdf (It says LT8 but its listed under the LT10 section.

Anyone know what the deal is? I hear you have to use the tranny harness and a stock ECU to control the tranny? How is it wired?

44 views and nobody knows or has any advice?

You need to disassembly your emissions harness. There is a section of it that runs from the trans to the dash harness, for control of the speedo, reverse lights, wipers, etc. You do not need to use the stock ECU for anything, unless you have an auto trans, then you have a long road ahead of you installing the microtech and getting the car to shift properly.

Your other option is to make a patch harness to mate to the FD engine and emissions harnesses to the microtech, then everything functions like factory. This is what I did for my 20B, it also allows me to swap in other types of ECU's by simply making another adapter

http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/Par...er_harness.jpg

1. Fish you tranny connectors through the grommet.

2. The white connector is called the x14 connector and has 12 wires. Here are the wires you will cut at the connector:

yellow wire
brown/yellow wire
white wire
blue wire
light green wire

You can cut the other ends of these to make it cleaner.

3. You should have 7 wires left:

Yellow/red and Green/yellow these are you reverse light that run to your connector

Orange and Green these are you speedo wires running to the connector.

Yellow/white this is your coolant temp wire...you can cut off the other part of this wire as it branches off to the ecu to...basically you just want this yellow/white wire to run straight to the sensor on the back plate of the motor.

Thicker black wire...ground this wire.

Thicker black/red wire....hook to 12v acc.

Plug in the two tranny connectors and the x14 to their connections and profit.

As far as your rpm goes its simple...just find the small yellow connector that is still in the car and look for the yellow/blue wire and cut it. Just solder your rpm out on your standalone to this yellow/blue wire.

Should look something like this when your ready to install.

Many thanx for this one.. Gonna have to try this.

My X14 has 13 pin connector, and cut 5 pin (white Pin10, blue pin11, yellow pin7, yellow brown pin3, light green pin4)

I stayed Yellow / red and Green / yellow (reverse light), Orange and Green (speedo), Black red (termoswitch water connector) and Black thick (ground) I stayed two extra cables, the first is blue / green pin8 and goes to the connector 16-pin yellow and other is brown pin1 going to the blue 12 pin connector, which I do with these two cables?

problem solved

what u ended doing with those blue/green and brown wires? i just didnt hook them but my wipers dont work, i wonder if does have something to do with those....let me know. thanks

Are the yellow plugs supposed to be connected/plugged in to anything or just remain there? I hooked it up as stated above with the blue/white tach wire from the microtech to the blue/yellow wire in the harness and when I was trying to start the car the tach started bouncing and went right over to the 9k rpm and the needle appears to be stuck there now. I have driven the car but I have revved it at standstill to like 5k rpm and the needle doesn't budge and still stuck at redline.

I was never able to get my tach to work but I did get the reverse lights and everything to work.

My reverse lights work. I haven't tried driving the car yet to see if the speedo works yet.