Water temp gauge red
Well im up and runing and my laptop water gauge is red and its at 86 how can i change max so it wont go red on me . also whats a good temp on a n/a turbo:scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
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good temps are 82-94.
I have never thought of changing the red zones on a microtech lol. Couldnt help you their. |
Originally Posted by zeaone
(Post 8135253)
Well im up and runing and my laptop water gauge is red and its at 86 how can i change max so it wont go red on me .
(the last 4 functions are for the dash unit LED)
Originally Posted by rx72c
good temps are 82-94.
Roland |
Originally Posted by KalliR
(Post 8157142)
Go to screen 31 and switch to the "water" point.
(the last 4 functions are for the dash unit LED) My temp. is between 76° and 82°. Are this too low? Roland good queston thats wat myn rufly sit on my lapy b4 i did the bridgy upgrade..... |
76-82 is ok. Wont hurt it.
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Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 8201140)
76-82 is ok. Wont hurt it.
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my fan doesn't come on until 86. Nothing wrong with cooler temps I guess but I think the stock fan comes on around 88C
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The fan should really come on a few degrees above thermostat temp. That will allow it to shut off completely when on the highway, but run around town so the temp doesn't go up and down.
I've recently discovered that switching the fan with a relay totally sucks. A PWM controller is much better: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=543869 A relay works and is cheap, but the PWM controller completely changes the behaviour of the cooling system. It makes the fan behave as if it was clutch controlled like the stock setup. The variable speed responds much better then the on/off relay and keeps the temperature rock solid. Also much lower oil temps and intake temps (for those with FMICs). |
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 8202255)
The fan should really come on a few degrees above thermostat temp. That will allow it to shut off completely when on the highway, but run around town so the temp doesn't go up and down.
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aaron. I like the idea of a variable speed fan. But unfortunately i dont like seperate controllers to control something so important.
If the ecu could do it then id use it, ive had bad experiences with controllers failing and you not finding out till its too late. Does anyone know if other ecus can vary fan speed etc? |
Originally Posted by KalliR
(Post 8202323)
I have change my original thermostat (83°) to a 72°C thermostat and so my temperature is 10° lower than original.
Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 8203453)
aaron. I like the idea of a variable speed fan. But unfortunately i dont like seperate controllers to control something so important.
If the ecu could do it then id use it, ive had bad experiences with controllers failing and you not finding out till its too late. The way I see it, there's just as much chance as a regular old relay failing as there is a fan controller. And a relay will tend to fail open, while a solid state fan controller will tend to fail on. Does anyone know if other ecus can vary fan speed etc? |
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 8205137)
Originally Posted by KalliR
(Post 8202323)
I have change my original thermostat (83°) to a 72°C thermostat and so my temperature is 10° lower than original.
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Seems to me that's a rad issue, and a lower temp thermostat is just a band-aid.
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btw, I’ve changed my thermostat together with the Koyo Aluminium Radiator.
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The Koyo isn't much bigger then stock though. For sustained high speed runs, you need something much bigger like some of the larger Howe rads. Will take some cutting to get it in, though...
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I sell Aluminium radiators that bolt into s4/5(FC to you guys) for $450 USD.
They are 4 pass, 57mm thick and work fucken awesome. I have tried them in circuit cars which have electric fans on which ive been told dont even switch on during the whole session. fan only switches on when car coems to a holt and quickly switches off. |
hay i just installed a flex lite black magic fan and dont know how to make micro control it its positive singnal not neg . Also rx72 post pics of rad i will be buying one soon:scratch: :scratch:
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pics will be up soon.
What computer are you running so i can tell you how to wire it up? |
Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 8210250)
I sell Aluminium radiators that bolt into s4/5(FC to you guys) for $450 USD.
They are 4 pass, 57mm thick and work fucken awesome. I have tried them in circuit cars which have electric fans on which ive been told dont even switch on during the whole session. fan only switches on when car coems to a holt and quickly switches off. I'll remember you when my koyo isn't enough. Would love a 4 way for that price. |
im running a lt10s
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3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by hondahater
(Post 8211923)
I'll remember you when my koyo isn't enough. Would love a 4 way for that price.
If not, take the 73°C-thermostat, instead of the orig 83°therm. and so it will be fine. :icon_tup: |
kalir have you got a front mount?
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Originally Posted by zeaone
(Post 8212272)
im running a lt10s
Their will be a white/red wire coming from the microtech. This and the fan must be connected to a standard 12v 30 amp 4 pin relay. Their are 4 pins on the relay(as stated above). 87,86,85,30. 87 Goes to direct power on the battery(no exceptions, must go battery or starter motor).(use 8 guage wire at least or 8mm thick). 86 Goes to 12v IGNITION(can go to pink wire on microtech). 85 Goes to WHITE/RED wire from microtech. 30 goes to the positive of the fan.(use at least 8 guage wire or 8mm thick). hope that helps. |
Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 8213566)
kalir have you got a front mount?
I’ve changed so many things last winter (rebuilt, ECU, exhaust, cooling, gear box, …) :sweatdrop |
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