The Settings that no one talks about...
 

I always wonder what some of these fuctions are supposed to be for our cars as no one mentions them here. I bought my ECU used..so i dont know for sure they still have the factory or correct settings on them..so if you know the correct values please state them here...:

DWELL
INPUT TRIG
SPARK TRIG
FIRING

in a very vague sense

DWELL is the time set between each time the coil pack fires, so it charges the coil pack up before firing it.
The longer the dwell the more spark potentially can be fired. This is a pretty useful feature on HEI, HEC ignition systems. But having to pump this up a fair bit usually fries coil packs, sometimes ignitors and is only a band aid for a shit ignition system.

INPUT TRIG is fairly simple. Your input trigger can be either positive or negative. You set it from here if you want it to be negative or positive. Not much more to it. This from factory is set on positive.

SPARK TRIG again is fairly simple, your setting whether you want the coil pack triggered on the negative or positive side, depending what ignition system you are using etc this can be positive or negative, it is application dependant.

FIRING is to setup whether you want injectors firing all in one hit or seperately.
This is application dependant as well.

I hope that clears it up for you.

I am having problems where trying to rev to redline (8500) in mostly 2nd gear and up..it hesitates/misses and takes a long to get there..actually iit very rarely gets past like 7600 or so. It starts to hesitate at like 6000rpm and struggles it way up to the 7600 or so by which time i just shift anyway. I have my firing set to sequential. Do you think that could be a cause? AFRs in the 11's ( i think, have a exhaust leak at the turbo backhousing to downpipe connection, it audible at idle and can be felt with your hand there)

93 FD, stock port rew, Greddy T-78 turbo, denso supra pump, 550/1680 injs, vmount IC/Rad, water injection with 720cc injecting water only on 90 octane gas. FC leading coil, MSD 6AL (happens with or without msd connected)

Your ignition is shit.

I bet you if you switch off teh water it wont do it.

You need proper CDI units like the CRANE Hi-6. Your injecting a proper amount of water now so you need ignition to burn it.

Also what boost are you running.

from 10 to 16 psi it happens. I was planning to switch of the water and see what happens. Will do it today and see what happens.

Removed the water and i am hitting 8k relatively easy now at 11psi. So i guess i do need a new ignition system or go a smaller jet on the water. What ignition setup do you suggest for me? I have a lt-8 with fc leading coil. So just throw on one crane hi-6 with the same fc coil and that should be ok?

I have an HI-6 on my leading and have had no issues with ignition breakup. An HI-6, 6AL, etc. will do the job.

I have a 6al and i have the hesitation issue.

Crane Hi-6 mate


Dont buy any other rubbish.
CAUSE THATS WHAT it is in comparison

Buy two crane hi-6 boxes with 2X lx92 coil packs for the leading.
Never ever have a missfire again.

Believe me. I have tried lots.
Above is tops.

The only issue is that Crane is out of business. :(

Can i run that setup with a Lt8, which doesnt have the x4 box? Do the leading plugs on both rotors fire at the same time?

What about the different types of Hi6...The Hi-6. Hi-6N, Hi-6 DIS4, Hi-6S. Whats the difference?

This is the exact unit to buy.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

And coil packs
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=CRN-730-0892

You need two of each.

i'm Heading For Broke... :D

Hah!!!

I actually stumbled on this thread looking for alot of the ignition answers I got from this thread. Thanks much guys.

The reason this thread got me was, I was wondering about some settings that's not talked about in the microtech lt10s book.
The Pump Dwell, Pump Timer, Pump Sync, and Pump Spare.

Anyone?

you could also use the hks twin power w/ the plug in harness. It should clear your break-up. Has worked for alot of people myself included. It is very eay to use w/ the harness. G

hks twin power does not come with in 1000 miles of the crane units. dont waste your money on rubbish.
do it once. do it right.

^Twin power would be fine for moderate power goals...Some people have run it fine up to 600 hp or whatever..no need to go out and spend $500+ on ignition boxes and $120+ on coils..that's a bit extreme.

Hey mate. 600hp on race fuel etc means nothing in my regards, as running 12:1 mixtures to get a car to run fine dosnt mean its working properly.

To get a car to run reliably at the right afrs you need much stronger ignition.
Just because someone decided they want to run their car at lean afrs to get their ignition to work dosnt mean all the others should copy. Because its not the right thing to do.

I will say it again. RUN PROPER IGNITION other wise you wont be able to tune it correctly. ESPECIALLY ON PUMP FUEL.

What differences would it make if the FIRING setting was batch or sequential? I would get it if it was for the ignition, but injection?

I was wondering about some settings that's not talked about in the microtech lt10s book.
The Pump Dwell, Pump Timer, Pump Sync, and Pump Spare.

Anyone?