Preinstallation thoughts...
 

Didn't get it today, looking forward to it.

Some things have been popping up in my head about what I need to have ready for the installation.

Solder, iron, and wiring type things I already have, as 3/4 of all tools made by man (thanks dead grandpa).

Questions:

1. Will I need to remove any part of the engine to gain access to the wiring harness (or connectors should I choose to wire in the new harness close to the plugs)?

2. If I do need to remove anything, what gaskets would be associated?

3. Do I need to align any part of the CAS or physical engine prior to the unit being able to function?

4. What accessories used by the factory setup can now be removed (BAC etc etc)? (I know about the MAF) ;)

5. For those that have done it, tips? Things that you wish you would have done to speed up the whole process (besides labelling things!)? Things that you kicked yourself in the ass once you got it all figured out cause it was so simple?

:)

Joe

Re: Preinstallation thoughts...
 

Be prepared to rip 99% of it out. You'll need to remove the upper manifold atleast, if not the lower. It also snakes under the fuel/vac rail. So yes, you should/need to remove the harness IMHO.

Probably just the intake gaskets, uppet to lower, and lower to block should you chose to remove it.

No. Its already aligned. You only need to re-align it if it has been removed and/or replaced.

You can remove basically anything that doesent have a microtech wire going to it, that was part of the engine ECU harness. (except the wipers)

Nope, its not in yet.

Re: Re: Preinstallation thoughts...
 

Keep the cruise control if you have it.

Bah, who needs cruise control.

Make sure to run 12volts of switched power (gets 12v when the key is on)to the pink wire that goes to the leading coil.

I bought some "soldering tape" from Radio Shack, and they work great. They are little rectangle shaped peices of solder you wrap around the connection, and melt with the gun. It takes a little practice, but after a few times you can get PERFECT conections. I have been using "normal" solder for a few years and I can do it MUCH quicker/cleaner with the tape. Also make sure you have a GOOD soldering iron/gun.

you'll want to cut out the wiper harness from the stock wiring harness it's really easy or you can just cut the plugs and rewire it to... i cut the two plugs out for the cruise and wipers but won't use the cruise control one ever since i'm doing an FD UIM

are you guys talking about Windshield Wipers or something else? I don't get why windshield wipers would be going into the ecu......

Blink.....are you modifying the FD UIM yourself or buying a premodified one. I have an FD UIM sitting in my closet right now, that I would like to put on, but it seems to be much more work thatn just modifying the holes and bolting it on (oil inlet, cables, fuel rail clearance, etc....)...

The only gasket you will need will be the plenum gasket.
The lower half of the intake can stay in place.
& throw the AFM in the bin!!!!!
There's close to 30 rear wheel horsepower there alone!!
Jon

I'm not throwing away shit!

:)

What gets pulled is getting sold. (cept for emmissions...just in case!)

Mark, I'm guessing what your talking about is in the manual, if not could you go slightly more into depth?

I know how to find a switched 12v, but why does it need to (tap into??!) goto a wire running to the leading coil?

Their not going into the ECU they just happen to be in the same harness. No big deal either cut it out or like was said cut off the clips and run new wires.

I recommend obtaing the RIGHT TOOL for crimping your new connectors on. They are available from Summit.
Use Quality components in your install so you don't start chasing Gremlins 6 months from now.

I don't think it'll be to bad.. I have almost all the parts I need en route.

FD UIM, TB, FD Throttle cable, GReddy TB elbow.. uhm.. yea I just need to order the FD lower oil filler neck thing cause it's short and it drops the filler neck down so it won't interfere with the throttle body. The only big thing will be getting the FD Manifold redrilled. but i'm guessing a machine shop shouldn't have much troubles with it. The problem with the Fuel rail was on a S4 rail... not sure how the s5 will do but a dremel fixes that :) As of right now.. my total cost is 220.00 I think with everything listed.

It's in the diagram, but is easy to to miss, blink and I both missed it, just giving you a heads up. If you don't run the wire the ECU won't power up.

Manufacturer, part number please? :D

I am posting a complete illustrated write up once mine is installed and accounted for(Sunday at the latest). Look for it.

Few more Q's after staring at the wiring diagram.

-Are all of the wires long enough to reach their locations?

-It *seems* like the pink wire goes to several things, am I looking at this thing right?

I suppose it depends on how you run the wire loom but i had to extend the wires that go to my coils along with the Power/Ground wires. I also ran a wire to the back of my car to the fuel pump (from the relay) Other than that all wires were of excess lenght and actually cut them down.

-eric.

Great!

But does that pink switched power wire really run to all the different items on the diagram, or are there several pink wires?