I need base map pls help
 

My setup is S5 ported motor, 550 primary to 1600 inj, to4b with .96 hotside, downpipe, ported throttle body, front mount intercooler.

I forgot to mention fpr is set at around 38 to 40 psi.

can anyone confirm if the dongle I purchased on ebay came with a base map necessary to start any car.

just run this map when you get the dongle. you are simililar to my setup.

Idle Map
Screen 1

30" ~ .95
25" ~ .95
20" ~ 1.14
15" ~ 1.44
10" ~ 1.71
05" ~ 1.91
00" ~ 2.14
2-20psi ~ 4.95

Load Map
Screen 3

30" ~ 0.95
25" ~ 0.95
20" ~ 1.13
15" ~ 1.44
10" ~ 1.81
05" ~ 2.24
00" ~ 2.56
2psi ~ 2.2
4psi ~ 3.4
6psi ~ 3.9
8psi ~ 4.6
10psi ~ 5.1
14psi ~ 5.7
16psi ~ 6.0
18psi ~ 6.6
20psi ~ 7.1

RPMwot Map Screen 17

5000 ~ 05
5500 ~ 08
6000 ~ 08
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 11
7500 ~ 11
8000 ~ 11
9000 ~ 12

The rest are zero

RPMcrs Screen 18

1000 ~ -12
1500 ~ -11
2000 ~ -12

THe rest are zero



Pump Map
Screen 19

Pump2Start ~ 2000
Pump1Amt ~ 15
Pump1Pulse ~ 04
Pump1Trig ~ 10
Pump1Stop ~ 00
Pump1Adv ~ 05

Pump2Time ~ 10
Pump2Amt ~ 30
Pump2Trig ~ 16
Pump2Stop ~ 00
Pump2Adv ~ 05

PumpDwell ~ 3.00
PumpTimers ~ No
Pump1Sync ~ No
PumpSpare ~ 00
PumpCold ~ 00

Water Map
Screen 20

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 70
-9 ~ 60
-01 ~ 50
05 ~ 45
11 ~ 45
18 ~ 42
24 ~ 34
31 ~ 26
38 ~ 24
46 ~ 19
60 ~ 12
68 ~ 06
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Air_t Map
Screen 21

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 8
-9 ~ 6
-1 ~ 5
5 ~ 4
11 ~ 3
18 ~ 3
24 ~ 0
31 ~ 0
38 ~ 0
46 ~ 0
60 ~ 0
68 ~ 0
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Crank Map
Screen 22

-25 ~ 72
-17 ~ 72
-9 ~ 72
-1 ~ 67
5 ~ 62
11 ~ 57
18 ~ 50
24 ~ 41
31 ~ 31
38 ~ 26
46 ~ 20
60 ~ 15
68 ~ 5
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

t*rpm
Screen 23

Idle ~ 00
1000 ~ 10
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 20
2500 ~ 25
3000 ~ 25
3500 ~ 25
4000 ~ 25
4500 ~ 25
5000 ~ 25
5500 ~ 25
6000 ~ 25
6500 ~ 25
7000 ~ 25
8000 ~ 25
9000 ~ 25

t*map Map
Screen 24

Idle ~ 00
25 ~ 05
20 ~ 04
15 ~ 03
10 ~ 02
05 ~ 00
00 ~ 00
2psi ~ 00
4psi ~ 03
6psi ~ 05
8psi ~ -07
10psi ~ -09
14psi ~ -13
16psi ~ -17
18 psi ~ -21
20 psi ~ -25

t*air Screen 25
Correction value Is expressed as number of degrees

you wish to advance or Retard to the Ignition curve

and values Is set at zero.

t*gap
Screen 26

0500 ~ 15
1000 ~ 15
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 14
2500 ~ 12
3000 ~ 10
3500 ~ 10
4000 ~ 10
4500 ~ 10
5000 ~ 10
5500 ~ 10
6000 ~ 10
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 10
8000 ~ 10

t*Inj Map
Screen 27

0500 ~ 120
1000 ~ 150
1500 ~ 150
2000 ~ 150
2500 ~ 150
3000 ~ 150
3500 ~ 150
4000 ~ 150
4500 ~ 180
5000 ~ 210
5500 ~ 210
6000 ~ 240
6500 ~ 240
7000 ~ 270
8000 ~ 270
9000 ~ 270

t*wat Map Screen 28


ANd the rest are zero

Option Map
Screen 30

Af_StE ~ 10
Dwell ~ 3.25 *set at Time Base - not at Duty Cycle*
REVstg ~ 1320
MAPstg ~ 02"
%stg ~ 50

I got the car started today but only lasted for couple of second. My fpr is getting fuel pressure on cranking while the microtech relay is totally disconnected , I have pink to 86, green wire to 85, 87 to +12 ignition and 30 to fuel blue wire. When I connect everything back to relay, my fuel pump is not priming on ignition only during cranking, also when I try to ground the green wire the relay click on but no fuel pressure on ignition.

are all the lt10s came with the x4box?

No they dont all come with the x4 box. Depends how you order it etc.

That means your ignition wire is not ignition. You probably accidently connected it to the starter wire.


Check that your 12v ignition wire actually has ignition on ignition and crank.
For testing purposes disconnect the green wire and run the 85 pin to ground. Once you have your pump going flat out on ignition no worries. THen remove the ground and connect the green wire just to rule out variables while trouble shooting.

I Have 12v ignition on pink before and during crank, I also grounded the green wire but still not priming on ignition only crank. How can I possibly have fuel pressure during crank while the fuel relay is completely disconnected, are saying I connected something in the stater wire the wrong way.

After the above post sounds like your fuel pump relay is not even connected to your fuel pump and your fuel pump is still connected to factory wiring. What car is it?

I have 89 gtus. where can I disconnect the factory fuel pump relay so I can run MT fuel relay.

ok, I disabled the fuel pump relay located under the steering column, so let me get this straight, beside from fuel relay 30 going to the blue wire fuel pump, do I need to run some ground to the fuel pump it self, because that seem to be the logical thing to do.

This is what you have to do.

Microtech FUEL PUMP RELAY


Power from battery PIN 87
PINK WIRE PIN 86
GREEN WIRE PIN 85
Run this wire to FUEL PUMP DIRECTLY IN THE BOOT(Fuel pump assembly) PIN 30.

Ok, I got the microtech fuel pump relay working now, thanks rx72c.

good stuff.

What do I need to adjust on microtech to get my car started on a first try, it usually take me 3 or 4 try with the help of pumping the throttle to get her going. My second problem is high idle, I played with the idle map a little bit with no luck, I made sure no vacuum leak anywhere. My third problem is tps calibration, when the car is not running, the tps bar will go up and down 0 to 99%, but when the car is running, tps just stock on 0%. when I depressed the gas pedal, I made sure the bracket is tight and secured. Any help will be appreciated.

First you need to sort out your idle and tps. Then worry about it starting up.

Have you wired up your tps correctly?

is your tps s4 or s5?

need more details.

Im using a haltech tps. like I say, its working when the car is not running, the bars go up and down.

My idle is at 1700 rpm, will I get accurate timing if it was time a that rpm, or do I have to bring it down first to maybe 750 rpm.

You can check it were it is.

What bar are you talking about with the tps?

TPS is very simple.


It should be 00 with no throttle. As soon as you touch the throttle it should change to another number other then 00.

If its not doing the above then the tps is wrecked or not working.
If your tps changes when the car is on, that means its loose or its broken internally.

DONT put the idle at 750rpm.

Set the idle to 1000rpm VIA THE THROTTLEBODY SCREW, if you unwind the screw all the way and the idle wont come down this means you have an air leak somewere.

I checked the timing and got it to idle to 1000 rpm via throttlebody screw. Tps is now calibrated showing 0% and changing once the throttle is depressed. Now, I have new problem, if I start the engine when its cold, the car don't want to hold an idle unless throttle being is press. Second problem, I still cannot start the car the first try, although its a little easier now that I have my timing correct.

My timing is set by remarking yellow pulley mark 5* to the right and I set the static to 0.

Change this T_rpm Idle ~ 00 to T_rpm Idle ~ 10

See if that helps it when its cold.

t*wat

-25 ~ 10
-17 ~ 10
-9 ~ 10
-01 ~ 10
05 ~ 10
11 ~ 10
18 ~ 10
24 ~ 10
31 ~ 10
38 ~ 10
46 ~ 08
60 ~ 04
68 ~ 00
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Put this for your T_water map.
DOnt cofuse this with your cold start map. This is timing VERSUS temperature.


Do both of the above and see how you go.

I have screen 28 t*wat map are set to all 0

Water Map
Screen 20

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 70
-9 ~ 60
-01 ~ 50
05 ~ 45
11 ~ 45
18 ~ 42
24 ~ 34
31 ~ 26
38 ~ 24
46 ~ 19
60 ~ 12
68 ~ 06
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

I'm kind of confuse what to change here....thanks for your patience.

change the twat map.
Not the water temp map.

I still cannot start it on a first try, then when it do start, it usually run crappy for couple of minutes, then goes back to normal idle.

Can you get a vid up of it starting.

ALso change this
Opt_Af_StE ~ 05

Also in the LOAD map


LOAD 00" ~ 2.56

change this to 2.86

And put this idle map in


30" ~ .95
25" ~ .95
20" ~ 1.14
15" ~ 1.44
10" ~ 1.91
05" ~ 2.34
00" ~ 2.74
2-20psi ~ 4.95

Do all of the above in one hit before you post back.