dies out
 

My car with a lt-10s with base maps for an s5 is unable to heat up past ~50 degrees C. it idles and drives nicely for not being warmed up. At about 50 degrees it starts to sound week for 5 to 10 seconds then just dies and you can't start it up, not even any pops or firing. After 20 mins you get some pops and fires, but after a few hours it starts right back and repeats the same things. I thought it was running rich and flooding but I checked the plugs and turned the motor over and no fuel came out of the plug hoes like usual when motors flood. any suggestions?

Ok, this is bizarre, I held my rmps at 2000 and the car would stay running for as long as I wanted at rull operating temp. Anything less it would die. Now when I go to start it up I realized that I'm not getting any crank signal whatsoever and after a good amount of time I get some signal then I get full signal again when it is cold, Can anyone explain this?

Alright, I checked it again and noticed the first rpm reading that registers is 320 rpm when the motor fires slightly. If 320 is the first reading in the software then I guess I am getting signal

Best way to check that you are getting an rpm signal. Is to check the ORANGE LIGHT is flashing while you are cranking the car or while its on.


Go to your water temp map on your handset,

and at the 46 celcius point add 5% of fuel and at the 60 celciuis point add 5% fuel and see if that helps.

If that dosnt work. I have seen a CAS which stops working when its gets hot.(but youll know cause youll see the orange light stop flashing).
Try the above step first and see if it helps it.

The orange light is blinking...thanks a lot..sorry you are becoming my personal tech support. I appreciate it

alright..I just noticed something my idle map is not the same one as in the base map thread posted by silverrotor, everything else is the same though. 30" ~ 1.33
30" ~ 1.33
25" ~ 1.48
20" ~ 1.93..mine is 1.57 here
15" ~ 2.38..mine is 1.97 here
10" ~ 2.48
05" ~ 3.48
00" ~ 4.0
2-20psi ~ 4.95

load maps are all the same..are my idle maps wrong? I don't think i touched them unless it was by accident when I was tying to figure out the software

Did you do those adjustments to the water temp map that i asked you to do?

The idle mixtures are not such a big issue.

What you can do.

Do this first before the water temp map.

Put 1.7 for 20"
and 2.1 for 15"

See what that does.

I did the water temp map thing and adjusted the idle map...no differences whatsoever. I waited until it got cold again and wired a pot to the water temp sensor connector. After 30 seconds of idle I tricked the computer to thinking it was 20 degrees C to 70C over the course of a few seconds and it just didnt run as well. I turned off the car waited a little bit and returned the plug back to the water sensor. I ran it at a higher idle(1200) and it lasted until 65C degrees. This leads me to believe it is something mechanical. crank signal is always good (false alarm before). Before I had the microtech on this car it was flooding like crazy running on one rotor with a haltech. There was actually a small puddle of gas in the exhaust manifold. I took the oil cap off and it smells like its gas (in between smelling oil and putting your nose in a gas-can) . Obviously I'm going to change the oil asap, but would this cause the seals to not seal once the oil becomes thinner as it heats up with the presence of gas?

Is the TPS calibrated?

Is it showing 0% with no throttle?

Have you got a afr meter?

Could you print out your whole map?

tps is calibrated. Don't have the meter yet still using a voltmeter with my wideband(11:1 ratio at idle but that is before it is at normal operating temp)...you don't think anything of the gas in the oil? I drained it and it is slightly thicker than gas. My oil level is actually high...must have been a quart of gas in there (all from my haltech running on one rotor with no spark, microtech has not flooded at all). I checked my maps and they are the same as silverotors base sticky for everything.

Drain the oil. And put thick 25-60w oil in it and see if it gets thin and fuely.

If it does. may have a bad side seal.

The new 20w-50 helped get it to 80C. Ive realized the vacuum drops from 19hg to 14hg before it dies. Turns out I have water accumulating on the oil dipstick. It blows greyish blue smoke out the back the warmer it gets, but not while its idling (when it dies). Atkins Rotary sold me a rebuild kit with a broken water seal and told me it wouldn't be necessary for them to send me a new one and that I could just use hylomar at the break. Are there any other places for water to break into the system like at the throttle or bac or something? Can I use radiator stop leak aluminum shillings in a rotary to verify if it is worth me ripping my engine out once again?

I would rip it out.
USE A GEUINE MAZDA REBUILD GASKTE set.

Its not worth the future headache you will get later on.
If water and oil are mixing etc, their is a possiblity you are damaging your bearings.
You cant take risks with rotaries, you do it right first time and their isnt anymore to it.
This is my opinion.

Yeah, time to rebuild again..maybe ill get some brand new ported housings. What is the difference with t2 housings and fd housings, bigger ports/port runners? could I use them with my s5 t2 motor? I know this is off topic, last question though, and thanks for all the help.

No problems. Get T2 housings. They are better then the FD rotor housings.
And specifically get the later T2(theyll have a knock sensor whole).

If you want a seal kit and housings pm me.

As for porting. You will notice more lag etc with ported exhaust ports. The standards ones are excellent and i have personally seen some drag cars that i help out with run low 8s at over 160mph with Untouched exhaust ports.

Your inlet porting is more important.

Pm me for more info and ill put ya in the right direction.