dad bloom it' 4 marks on pulley for timing
 

OK.. well I was trying to set the timing on the car and man I can't belive how complicated it's friggin getting.

I have underdrive pulley set that I got from Rotary Performance about 5-6 years ago. I was looking at the timing trying to get it set and just found there are 4 marks evenly spaced on them. So now what do I do?

The other question is the initial setup with the timing lock on.

When I start my car it sits at about 1600RPM even after it warms up.

In the screen where the gauges are it read's the timing as 10 degrees. So what does that mean to me. If I 0 my timing I will be off.

I know there was another discussion similar to this but I had a hard time making heads and tails from it. Especially since I have 4 marks instead of two. I think the good thing is that I will eventually know what 0 timing reference really is.


Please help, going crazy on this. I've spent more than a few hours on something that should only take a few minutes.

Well I figured it out by...
 

Searching....

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ming+and+marks

Still need to know about the manuls reference to 5 degree vs 10 degree actual timing.

In your case, set the static (screen 30) to zero, and aim for the 0 degree mark. Then call it a day. :)

Brandon
BR7 Racing

What is the concensus on the whole 5 vs 10 thing? It's completely lame the thread was locked. This is supposed to be an open forum, not might makes right..

Cool.. That's what I ended up doing
 

Now I just have to fine tune everything.

I was having a hard time getting the idle down. It seems to want to stay at 1500RPM.

Is the O2 sensor reading worth looking at? It says I was around 11.4 at some points after it warmed up a bit.

I played with the screen 8 setting which didn't make much of a difference either way. Where do you make the drastic changes. Say you wanted to slap 800cc injectors as primaries on your map. Where do you change idle injection? I know I know RTFM.

Is it me or is the software interface a little goofy. Wazup with the simulated hand controller?


I was setting the timing while at 1500 RPM's. The mark wasn't percise. It would move about 1-2 MM to the left rythmically. I just set it on the spot it seemed to be at the most.

Re: Cool.. That's what I ended up doing
 

Use the idle screw on the throttle body to adjust the idle speed. Once set be sure to re-calibrate the TPS. Then you can play around with the fueling for idle. The narrow band O2 isnt much good for anything so don't really worry about it's readings. You'll need a wideband to do any fine tuning.

If you throw 800cc injectors into the primary position then you will make adjustments in the idle map. If you throw them in the secondary position, there is a good thread at the top of this page regarding how secondary injector staging works.

More than a couple people who have used the software on my car have commented about the simulated handcontoller setup. It's like anything once you get used to it, it works good. Once you learn the quick buttons for certain functions, and where options are located it works well.

The first thing I would be doing is calling the place that you bought the pulleys from & asking them exactly what mark is what.
This is the most important thing.If you stuff this up it could cost you an engine!!!!
Go get on that phone!!!!

hmm, should static be set at 5????? when its timed to the mark on the stock pully? my computer was set at 0.

Re: Re: Cool.. That's what I ended up doing
 

Well, was playing with it again last night. The idle just won't go down at all. I played with the two screws on the firewall side of the throttle body and they are all the way adjusted and it still hovers at 1400-1700. I blocked off the BAC just to make sure it was letting in any air in just to test. I did the throttle body mod, btw. I removed the secondary plates and thermo wax and all that. I had the shaft holes welded and the thermo hole welded too.

I just adjusted the TPS in the microtech by 0ing it down.

Is there a place I'm missing that will adjust the throttle. Because I looked at the spare throttle body I have to compare and see where the adjustments would make the difference and nothing appears to be obvious.

Is the 02 good for idle though. It reads 11.4 at all times after it warms up.

You must be missing the idle screw. It is a small flathead threaded screw with a small nut on it to lock it.

That was the one. It is all the way out. It's not even touchung the throttle now. still high. what about Accelerated warmup supply valve. where and what is that. Is that the thing w/ two wire cononector on the back of the manifold by firewall.

have you plugged all the vacuum holes???

also have you made sure the throttle cable isnt holding it open??

Dale

I got everything... I think
 

The car wouldn't idle right until I got all the vacum holes pluged. I might have missed one but I'm pretty sure. If I missed one though, wouldn't the idle vary istead of being constant?

I have all 6 hoses on the side of TB plugged. The one on the passenger side is going to the map sensor and FPR. The one on top of the TB was going to brakes (which doesn't seem to be working.

Are there any others I'm missing?

I manually tried to move the throttle cable back just to check and make sure it was right.

what motor is it??? t2?? if it is the hose on the TB will have no vacuum, you brake booster goes on a fitting on the LIM right near the firewall, if you have nothing on that it will idle very very high like you have, with a vacuum leak it will idle smooth if there is enough fuel.

Dale

Yeah, it's TII motor
 

That's gotta be what it is, Thanks I'll check it and let you know.

no probs,

i pulled mine out last night and it is a M10x1.25 fitting, so if you have a M10 hole on the runner leading to rotor 2 secondary port that will be the problem!

if that is blocked and it is still doing it you need to find where the leak is, i some times use WD40 and spray it around the gaskets and when you spary on the leak you will find the idle changes,

Dale

I think I found it...but
 

I must have another one leaking that I can't see, I plugged the one I found and it still ran high. When I was putting the upper IM on I was really just test fitting it and ended up leaving it on (I was so excited to had finally get everything on there.) Too much in a hurry.

What was throwing me off is how well it ran. It ran perfect at 1500RPM. No hunting, sputtering, or anything.

I put my hand over the turbo inlet and it still ran the same, maybe a 100 RPM's less. Which means it's gotta be leaking pretty bad.

there are heaps of vacuum lines under there, at last count i think i counted 10 of them!! 2 of them would make it that bad!!

time to pull it off and check them, i soldered all the ones i dont use up so they dont leak!

Dale

OK... spent 5hrs searching diagrams
 

I didn't have the Oil injector vacuum lins connected either. So I need to connect it. My UIM has 3 nipples on the firewall side right behind the TB. Starting from the top, what is wach one for?

What is the bigger hose for on the same side of the UIM but further away from the TB.

What is the nipple for that points straight up from the secondary rotor housing. I have a hose on it. There is a vacuum on it but not sure where it went.

There is a small nipple on the LIM that points toward firewall almost directly between the injectors. I ran the 4 into 1 line from the Oil injectors to this nipple.


There was a diagram somewhere on here that someone had taken a factory diagram and color coded it for vacum and fuel lines. Does anyone have that?

Re: OK... spent 5hrs searching diagrams
 

hey mate,

you should have the oil injector ones hooked to the back of the LIM, the map sensor should hook to one of the UIM, the rest can be blocked!

the digrame is in the thread, vac lines i think it is called,

Dale