Attn all tuners read my logs!!!
Ok just got back from the track and want to know what I need to do to get this thing driving better till I can get on the dyno. Here goes...
Code:
40 1120 -18 Hg 00% 27° 2.19sT 86°c 60°c 12.75v 14.7 . . |
Ugh. Please, people, when you're posting your logs, either change the file extension to .txt or zip it up or something. We can't just c&p what you throw into your HUGE post - the formatting gets all screwed up.
Brandon BR7 Racing |
really? It looks ok on my screen, I even used the code tags so it would monospace the text.
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A linefeed was inserted before the ECU status column. :)
Brandon BR7 Racing |
why not take it back to CFT ? tim
for more tunning if you think it needs more refinement if your looking for more power That stocker feeding a FM with long tubbing is really hurting you try running the TM for comparison..I'm sure will see a nice diffrence just my .2 cents :D |
Looks like you really need a new battery or alternator
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I just got a new Hawker (small one). The alternator is just a parts store reman so I think it's the culprit.
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your alitnator is letting things down there, it should be over 13v at all times,
also you have a lot of timing in there at idle dude, i have 12deg, how does it idle with 27deg in there?? |
I'm suprised nobody mentioned the 19.0 A/F!
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Yea...what's up with that?!
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probably has no 02 sensor installed,
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No it's there. I told my tuner it was running lean but he thought I said rich so he took more fuel out of it. Fortunately it ran so lean that it stalled (like a carb with empy bowls). I was sh*ting my pants at the 60' line though.
My FD alternator is on it's way then it's off to the dyno. |
there is a sensor there?? your kidding??
thats as lean as hell, im suprised it even ran, from what i have seen the narrow band at about 13:1 is roughly 11.5:1, but dont use that as gospil, every sensor is different but 14.7-19 is lean as! |
Your air intake temps are about 20 degrees C hotter than mine. Must be the stock top mount doing that for you.
You better trim the injectors like +10% untill you get to a dyno. You really dont wanna blow, but from the looks of it you are not maxing your injectors at all. |
I have the greddy like you I think the +20 degrees are from being in Florida with outside temp of 90*F and 100% humidity.. lol
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Here is (my new friend) Brian's map he has a T76 with a NPR intercooler. I saw his intake temps and was like whoa...
Code:
# 76 1440 -17 Hg 56% 27° 2.81sT 72°c 100°c 12.50v 12.0 . . RPMwot . ' |
I'm curious as to why in the status column it says BOOST....mines NEVER shown that...
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Your friend's log looks a lot worse then yours does.
Just look at the boost column on the last 15 lines. The thing jumps from 4psi to 15psi to 4 psi and then all over. Somehow it keeps going back to 4 psi. That intake temp is frightening. Perhaps he has it swapped with the water temp sensor, which is abnormally low. Perhaps running no thermostat. Boost on status line?? Does he have the microtech boost controler?? |
i dunno, his LT-8 was purchased well over a year ago so I think that it just may be an older version of the sofware. Oh and I think that 4-14 fluctuation is being caused by wheelspin?
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I dought wheelspin or else that log can be deleted from this planet and should not be used as a guide for anybody.
I have a thread about boost fluctuation in this section here. |
hey do someone explained why the boost fluctuation on that datalog,i test myself the car on the backroads of the track it feels o.k. if you see the datalog the tps is at 99% all the time that means that the throttle never closed but probably the blow off valve needs to be check.the lean out situation on brian,s car is the fuel pump is stock,and he,s aware of the situation.
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The boost fluctuation is probably an artifact of the where the MAP sensor line is connected. Make sure it's attached to the bottom front nipple on the upper intake manifold; that's the one closest to the throttle plates, and will give the most stable reading.
Brandon BR7 Racing |
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