15a Engine fuse keeps blowing
 

My 15a interior Engine Fuse keeps blowing everytime I try to start the car.
This is a new install LT10s in a 90 GTU TII swap.
Any ideas on what to look for? I'm not sure what I did wrong.

The fuse covers - EC-AT control system, Fuel System, EGI & Emission control system.

I get a green & yellow light on the MT, with the ignition on. (TPS is calibrated)
The fuel pump primes.
The yellow light blinks steady while cranking..

but everytime I try to start it, the 15a Engine fuse burns out,
(driver's kickpanel fusebox)
This fuse had previously never popped before I started the MT Install.

If my coil wiring was wrong, would it cause this to happen?
What should I look for? i'm lost,..
I need to get the car ready to drive to my appointment at the tuners on Saturday.

What is the EC-AT Control System?



I should add, the car was in previously running condition, before I started the install.
and, I did not alter the driver's side wire harness, except for clipping the wires that I attached the grey/green, grey/white, & grey/red ignition wires from the Microtech to.
Should I have left those attached?,

Ok, on the plug at the leading coil, I have the black/yellow stripe wire, still attached to the body harness plug, to power the tan wire on the coil.. right?

I cut the other wire on the body harness,
and attached the Grey/Red MT ign wire to the side that goes through the plug and leads to the pink wire on the coil.

Is this right?


For The Trialing: I left the two black/yellow wires/plug hooked up as they were.
On the four wire connector, I cut the two wires that I connected the grey/white and grey/green MT ign wires to. And I left the other two attached to the plug on the body harness, still going to the coil.

Is this correct?


Thanks,
-Chris

I couldn't figure out what was up with the engine fuse,
so I'm powering the coils straight off the battery through a switched relay.
& I got the car started.
:icon_tup:

the reason its blowing up is because you are not meant to power the microtech through the factory engine fuse.

never do this. always wire up a new a circuit for microtech.

Ok thanks.

Hey, can someone give me a quick run down on how to set up for 800cc primarys & 1000cc secondarys?

I'm sitting here in my car, in the driveway as i'm typing this.
the car will start but it's pig rich & barely runs.
I don't want to foul out my new plugs.

I just need to get it close enough to drive the car to the tuner's.

what HG does your car pull on idle?

make sure your tps is set correctly.

now go to the idle map and pull out fuel at the correct HG.
pull it out slowly.

setup your opt_revstg at 2500rpm
opt_mapstg at 02HG

set your LOAD_00HG at 3.3MS(around their)

set load_02psi at 3.3MS as well.

See how you go.

Also tell me what your current values are in the IDLE and LOAD map.

Well,
It wanted to start, but kept flooding out.
Then my USB to serial adaptor stopped working,
so I ordered a PCMCIA to serial adaptor.
..It's going to be a few days before that gets here & I can try again.

Once I get connected again, I'll post my Idle and Load map settings.

Should I make any adjustments to the %stage for my 800cc X 1000cc injectors?

dont play with the staging yet. your map is way off already. adjusting the stg percentage will make it go more out of wack.


Did you put the figures i told ya to put in?
Also have you got a handset?
laptops are annoying.

Yes, I entered those #'s,
I also turned the air & water temp adjustments down to 0%, since it's cool outside,
I thought that might be causing it dump in even more fuel.
is that allright for now?

Thanks again for the help!

Here's my mods if that makes a difference.

S5 TII - TO4B hybrid, BNR stage 2 w/ P-trim
Thunder fab 80mm downpipe
Racing Beat Catback
26x6x3" FMIC
2.5" IC pipe
greddy compression tube
Throttle Body mod w/p&p
gasket matched intake
3" TID, with cold air box
800x1000 high imp injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Innovate LC-1 wideband
-No FPR, - should I have one?

the factory FPR is fine if you know its working.(they dont usually fail).

put your water settings back to what they were. if you cant remember them. i can get you some settings that i use that work for most cars.

the idea is at 18 degrees its 50% and by 82 degrees its zero.

did the figures help it much?

If you have a handset, pull alittle abit out of your idle map and load map all over and see if it helps. and since you have the wide band in. get your idle afr to around 12.5:1.

http://www.microtechefi.com/images/s...hots/water.gif

thats a pic of some standard water temp values.
you can add around 5% to each to be on the safe side.