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-   -   Microtech 13b with microtech NO START (https://www.rx7club.com/microtech-111/13b-microtech-no-start-982232/)

blue86s5 Jan 2, 2012 08:00 PM

13b with microtech NO START
 
Hi all im new here and i recently acquired a non running rx7, it is an 86 model with a 13b with stage 2 street port s5 housings, 750cc/1200 rc injectors, 60trim turbo and microtech lt10. I got the car from a friend in non running condition, history on the car- has not ran in a few years, motor and parts are from atkins, the guy supposedly removed the turbo and ordered a new one, got shipped off to iraq and it has not ran since. The rotors have been oiled through the spark plug holes-what is the best way to oil them? New plugs but have been wet with fuel multiple times, have cleaned plugs with wire brush and brake parts cleaner. Plugs are in the proper holes and t1 and t2 coils are hooked up properly and leading wires do not matter-correct? I am getting good strong spark at all wires and plugs, have cranked motor over multiple times to clear out rotors and then oiled. I have plugged in a map for 720cc primary injectors and that gets it close to starting but not quite, the microtech will read between330-450 rpm when it is trying to start, it sounds like it is firing but it never can quite run on its own. I am getting white fuel smoke out of the exhaust, the car has fresh fuel in it also. I have tried to adjust the fuel tables for load, crank, water temp, air temp and calibrating the tps, how small of increments should i adjust the values in?
I have tried adjusting timing on the handheld while cranking with it not making much of a difference, if i advance the idle timing5-10* it seems to help a tiny bit but not much. What other things should i check, what am i missing here?
Any help is appreciated in getting this thing running! oh and also it is 30-50 degrees here right now

RotaryEvolution Jan 2, 2012 08:04 PM

recheck the CAS timing or rotate it one tooth at a time while attempting to start it.

what is your injector pulsewidth while cranking? should be about 7-8Ms

if it is a new engine it is likely fuel washed by now and severely low on compression. get an oil squirt can and put marvel mystery oil in it and spray that into each of the intake runner ports on the passenger side of the car, spray about 2-3 shots in each runner per attempt to aid in the compression issue.

blue86s5 Jan 2, 2012 08:07 PM

I was wondering about timing but did not know how to verify that it is in the correct position. I am a gas and diesel mechanic so i understand engines well but this is my first rotary. Can you explain how to check the CAS timing? And can the injector pulsewidth be viewed on the handheld?

TEDDER1 Jan 2, 2012 08:10 PM

Air fuel gauge?

Have you checked to make sure the primary injectors are both working?

What do you mean "leading wires do not matter...correct?

Are you getting spark when cranking or when using the 0 cyl test?

RotaryEvolution Jan 2, 2012 08:15 PM

the procedure for stabbing the CAS is in the FSM, it's too much for me to type out right now. easier test would be to just rotate the CAS gear and restab it and see how the engine reacts to the different timings, i haven't found this to really be that harmful to the engine even if it does kickback(the shitty microtech has a tendency to do this anyways while cranking).

the injector PW can be seen on the handheld in various spots in the information dialogue boxes.

if you do get it fired it will be important to keep the engine running for a while to break in the seals to build compression, fyi.

TEDDER1 Jan 2, 2012 08:23 PM

Im retarded. The A/F gauge needs to heat up first. I was just thinking of my issue where id be driving and see the gauge read high... ignore that.

blue86s5 Jan 2, 2012 11:22 PM

I will charge the battery tonight and i tried to download a fsm but the site was down so i will just rotate the cas. Do i have to take it out and re-stab it or can i just rotate it until i run out of room on the slot and then re-stab? Reason i ask is that it looks like at one point in time it was bolted down on the opposite end of the slot on the bracket. I will find the injector pulsewidth when i hook the battery back up to the car and i will change it if need be. Is there anything wrong with the map that i posted that would keep it from starting?

Idle Map
Screen 1

30" ~ 1.38
25" ~ 1.48
20" ~ 1.33
15" ~ 1.71
10" ~ 1.71
05" ~ 1.62
00" ~ 2.00
2-20psi ~ 4.95

Load Map
Screen 3

30" ~ 0.95
25" ~ 1.19
20" ~ 1.33
15" ~ 1.71
10" ~ 2.14
05" ~ 2.57
00" ~ 2.86
2psi ~ 2.2
4psi ~ 3.2
6psi ~ 3.8
8psi ~ 4.4
10psi ~ 4.9
14psi ~ 5.5
16psi ~ 5.9
18psi ~ 6.5
20psi ~ 7

RPMwot Map Screen 17

5000 ~ 05
5500 ~ 08
6000 ~ 08
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 11
7500 ~ 11
8000 ~ 11
9000 ~ 12

The rest are zero

RPMcrs Screen 18

1000 ~ -12
1500 ~ -11
2000 ~ -12

THe rest are zero



Pump Map
Screen 19

Pump2Start ~ 2000
Pump1Amt ~ 00
Pump1Pulse ~ 04
Pump1Trig ~ 18
Pump1Stop ~ 00
Pump1Adv ~ 05

Pump2Time ~ 10
Pump2Amt ~ 30
Pump2Trig ~ 16
Pump2Stop ~ 00
Pump2Adv ~ 05

PumpDwell ~ 3.00
PumpTimers ~ No
Pump1Sync ~ No
PumpSpare ~ 00
PumpCold ~ 00

Water Map
Screen 20

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 70
-9 ~ 60
-01 ~ 50
05 ~ 45
11 ~ 45
18 ~ 42
24 ~ 34
31 ~ 26
38 ~ 24
46 ~ 19
60 ~ 12
68 ~ 06
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Air_t Map
Screen 21

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 8
-9 ~ 6
-1 ~ 5
5 ~ 4
11 ~ 3
18 ~ 3
24 ~ 0
31 ~ 0
38 ~ 0
46 ~ 0
60 ~ 0
68 ~ 0
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Crank Map
Screen 22

-25 ~ 72
-17 ~ 72
-9 ~ 72
-1 ~ 67
5 ~ 62
11 ~ 57
18 ~ 50
24 ~ 41
31 ~ 31
38 ~ 26
46 ~ 20
60 ~ 15
68 ~ 5
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

t*rpm
Screen 23

Idle ~ 00
1000 ~ 10
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 20
2500 ~ 25
3000 ~ 25
3500 ~ 25
4000 ~ 25
4500 ~ 25
5000 ~ 25
5500 ~ 25
6000 ~ 25
6500 ~ 25
7000 ~ 25
7500 ~ ??
8000 ~ 25
9000 ~ 25

t*map Map
Screen 24

Idle ~ 00
25 ~ 05
20 ~ 04
15 ~ 03
10 ~ 02
05 ~ 00
00 ~ 00
2psi ~ 00
4psi ~ 00
6psi ~ 02
8psi ~ -04
10psi ~ -06
14psi ~ -10
16psi ~ -12
18 psi ~ -16
20 psi ~ -20

t*air Screen 25
Correction value Is expressed as number of degrees you wish to advance or Retard to the Ignition curve and values Is set at zero.

t*gap
Screen 26

0500 ~ 15
1000 ~ 15
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 14
2500 ~ 12
3000 ~ 10
3500 ~ 10
4000 ~ 10
4500 ~ 10
5000 ~ 10
5500 ~ 10
6000 ~ 10
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 10
8000 ~ 10

t*Inj Map
Screen 27

0500 ~ 120
1000 ~ 150
1500 ~ 150
2000 ~ 150
2500 ~ 150
3000 ~ 150
3500 ~ 150
4000 ~ 150
4500 ~ 180
5000 ~ 210
5500 ~ 210
6000 ~ 240
6500 ~ 240
7000 ~ 270
8000 ~ 270
9000 ~ 270

t*wat Map Screen 28


ANd the rest are zero

Option Map
Screen 30

Af_StE ~ 10
Dwell ~ 3.25 *set at Time Base - not at Duty Cycle*
REVstg ~ 1320
MAPstg ~ 02"
%stg ~ 50

blue86s5 Jan 3, 2012 08:22 PM

ok i got it running by removing the cas and re positioning the gear and rotating the housing, but my dumbass shut it off because i didnt have the coolant system bled and the buzzer was going off and i didnt have any near me and now i cant get it restarted.

RotaryEvolution Jan 4, 2012 12:58 PM

MMO in the intake, get everything else sorted out before you fire it up again and run it in for about 30-45 minutes at varying RPMs from 1k up to 3.5k. after that lock the timing with the handheld and check your base timing.

and zero out your cruise maps, should all be zeros until you want to actually use those maps. you never would cruise at 1-2k RPMs anyways so that will likely affect your idling maps. also set pump 1 amount to 10 to start with otherwise it will hesitate when you stab the throttle before the injector staging, additionally set your REVstg figure to 3,000, otherwise your injectors are trying to transition whenever you reach the threshhold figure right off idle and could even affect the starting with it set so low.

blue86s5 Jan 4, 2012 11:39 PM

I got it running for a long time today and a member here messed with the tune via teamviewer, getting it alot better than it was before, now i have to get a test pipe welded up to quiet it down for the neighbors lol


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