OK so if I can't figure this out by tomorrow I'm doing what I probably should have done in the first place - putting a dizzy in and tuning it fuel-only until I have known good fuel maps that the car will run with.

I can't get it to start. I modded another CAS and got it timed properly. I opened up the MS and noticed something that I didn't notice before... wondering if this is why the car has ran not proplery and etc the whole time - during cranking the timing is set at -69 deg, so I'm assuming that when I'm setting the timing it would be at -69deg too (which seems to be about right as it's out more than 1 tooth from where I think it should be) - what should I set the cranking timing to, if it is -69 should I be setting it to 0 while I set the timing, and then to -69 after the cas is timed properly?

I messed witht he fuel up and down and up and down today as well, I got it to misfire a few times but nothing real.

I also noticed (sure this is a feature of the MS but it's irritating) that it fires the coils when you shut it off, this always makes the car POP as I turn the key off.

 

though i just realized that if I run it fuel only the MS has no way of knowing how the engine is spinning... doh!

so please help me get this spark situation figured out!

 

Haltech does the same thing except on startup....

I was reading through the thread but I can't get a clear picture of the problem in my head...Can you post a good point form description?

A few general hints though. The CAS wiring MUST be shielded and the connector MUST be in good shape. The shield grounds at the ECU end only. If regular wire is used, you will get a massive amount of ignition interference.

Do you have access to a scope so you can observe the output of the LM1815 circuit?

 

His CAS wiring is shielded twisted pair. There is no LM1815 circuit in this install, as it's a V3.0 board which has one on-board VR conditioning circuit. He's running the missing-tooth configuration, so there's no need for a second circuit. I stopped by to see him a couple weeks back, and he no tach signal problems that I could see. Cranking showed a nice clean 250 rpm or so while the battery held up. The datalog he had from a previous run while only a couple minutes long, looked clean as well. Getting a clean reliable tach signal is the #1 challenge with MS installs, particularly when decoding a toothed wheel, and he had passed that test with flying colours. He had badly fouled plugs at the time, and no timing light to check cranking timing, so we couldn't get it running during my brief visit.

I'd check over your settings one more time against the FAQ. Maybe there's a dwell setting out of whack resulting in a very weak spark? Get some new plugs as well. Those issues of one leading plug only sparking is sure sign of issues related to plugs and/or plug wires.

 

has new plugs and new wires now.

what should the timing be during cranking in the spark menu?

 

you should set trigger return... what the crank timing is depends on the trigger wheel setup and trigger angle. If you set the cranking advance wrong, you won't get any spark on crank if you're using trigger return....

What you have to do is figure out what advance your "return" teeth are at.

For example, if using 1,3 and 7,9 as the triggers/returns... and a trigger of 60 deg, then tooth 3 and 9 are both 0 deg for their respective rotors... so that would be your cranking advance.