Cant solve irritating issue..
 

I setup my map with everything else, everything runs like smoothly. But often i start the car when the car is warm or warmed up to 160f and it will run leaner by 1 afr across the ve board all the way to boost. It does it on its own when ever it feels like it. Help plz.

I doubt it does this on its own whenever it feels like it, it is most likely a heat-soak problem on your air temperature sensor.

Ken

Thanks for reply. Yea i read something about that, how can i know that it is heat soak problem, or how can i fix it?

Air temp sensor doesnt go higher then 63C and usually in a 55C range.

Well, typically if it's only doing it after you start while the engine is hot, then it should go away after a few miles of driving. If it does go away, it's likely heat soak.

Ken

thx i solved that problem and new one arrived of course lol. Every time i try gong into boost, the engine stumbles, almost like a rev limiter, for a few sec, after that it stubles lil bit on boost. my afrs and timing ok.

Before it ran smooth abut after i installed walbro pump a few days later this started happening.

i checked fuel pressure and it is at 55 psi at idle and when i accel it drops to 42 psi. after half hour pressure goes down to 50 psi at idle.

maybe its PD, i feel strong pulses in a fuel line between primary and secondary rails.

i start going into boost at 2.5 k rpm, even at city driving i have to go into some boost or otherwise car is too slow. Before i didnt have problems going into boost on just primaries at partial throttle and when full throttle the secondaries came on smooth transition. Now everytime i try to go into boost on partial throttle it will go into like a rev limiter mode.
I tried setting secondaries to come on sooner 2500 rpm but doesnt really help much.

Past the stumbling issue engine runs rough, missfires every 500 rpm increments . Lower then 100 kpa everything is fine.

Sounds like you might be going so rich the O2 sensor can't pick it up. I can't think of anything else that would cause what you're seeing.

Can you post an msq?

Ken

yes i will post msq.

Today spent alot of time, checking grounds etc. Below 100 kpa everything runs perfect. anything above if will stumble, rattle, misfire, badly. Feels like not enough fuel. its almost as the ecu wont control inj or coils after 100 kpa. i will try to dial back VE after 100 kpa, could be rich mixture misfire but i dough it.

The secondaries do come online, i checked with DMM. Even before the secondaries are on, it will badly stumble on the primary inj after 100 kpa.

Plz check my msq.

there are 2 msqs that i have used.

muythaibxr could you check msq plz?

Haveyou verified that the trailing coils are wired to the correct rotors?

the only time I have seen what you describe is when they are backwards.

I will check your msq when I am near a computer (on phone now).

Ken

Yes its wired properly, before the car ran awesome, the i think the connector from iat came off, it ran extremely rich, after i fixed it it started giving problems. i changed spark plugs, checked secondary injectors and they are fine, clean stream of fuel when pulsed. I rerouted cas wires away from ignition pos. wire that seemed to help a lil. Possibly its EMI with cas signal.

Off boost i took the car to 6k rpm no problems, on boost its breaking up, not as bad as before.

Ive even read that non resistor plugs can emit emi, and that mazda doesnt recommend non resistor plugs. Im running non resistor plugs, but before the car ran perfect, so i guess its not the spark plug issue.,

Non-resistor plugs will definitely cause some issues. If it was working before I'm not sure how.

Ken

i changed the trigger angle to 60, seems to be working much better, still has rpm spikes at low rpm, i guess that is a noise interference.

Which MS version and firmware are you running?

Ken

Ms1 , ms extra filmware. Its running good now after i switched to autolite 3923 resistor plugs, i had brand new non resistor plugs before which apparently were too noisy..

i set 60 trigger angle and 24 style cas, can u tell me what does trigger angle and 25 24 style cas do?. thanks!

misfire, rich mixture, stalls when's hot,...
 

Hi guys. I apologise for bothering you with my problems, but unfortunately here in Portugal (my home land) there are no mechanic with knowledge on these engines (these cars are very rares here) and I can't seem to put my car working properly, I even posted a thread of it, but no one replied... from what i've read from your posts, it seems you know a lot of these engines (some terms you use are beyond my knowledge). I'm gonna start from the beginning: I've bougth the car all disassembled in a garage of a friend of a friend with a broken engine, I've bought another engine and put it back together (I'm not even a mechanic, I'm just a curious truck driver) with tha help of a manual repair service that I bougth on Ebay, The engine started very well, only with an adjustment of the TPS, but now after I've changed the spark plugs (BUR9EQP, BUR7EQP), NGK wires, air and fuel filters, the car is making misfires everytime it's dropping the 2000rpm, when it's hot, it's very dificult to start it again or it doesn't start, I've tried to do the anual Mot but it didn't passed, the inspector told me to look for a bad vacuum sensor, because the A/F ratio is too rich and the CO gases levels are to high (it should do 0,30 at the most and it's making 2,80 !!!). When I stoped the car after the inspection (the inspector mantained high revs for a while trying to achieve a better CO level), the coolant was boiling and it threw it out. Is this engine dead? What should I do? From where I should start? Thanks

if your coolant was boiling either you have a bad fan on bad coolant engine seals. i can hold my rpm at 4,000 rpm in nutural , for a long time without my temps going over 185F.

If its running too rich, it could be TPS, bad vac sensor. Investing in wideband o2 is a good thng also.

Check your afm also.