Megasquirt can you guys look over my settings
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 334
Likes: 2
From: south orange county
can you guys look over my settings
i am running the 2 teeth cut off of the cas. any other info that you need just let me know. i just need to know what you think i should change and what looks good. also on the wheel decoder if you are running the single vr wheel you need to turn off the secoand trigger or what? because i had it so the secoand trigger was off and i couldent get the car to run and i think that is why. and help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not sure if your opening time is right or not, I usually use 1 ms.
Your req_fuel might be a little low too, but you'll have to tinker with that until the car runs, then readjust it and your VE table once you get it running.
Also, since you have 2 teeth cut out of the CAS, turn off second trigger. And change "no missing" to "missing teeth" and "missing teeth" to "-1"
Your 160 degrees cranking pulse width is too low, you need to raise that and probably the rest from 80-100 deg F up by around 1-2 ms or more.
If you're using the BAC valve, you'll want to change your idle control to at least PWM with warmup only.
For your AFR table, I'd suggest that you run richer at low revs and low load. I always got a lot of misfires when I ran lean in that area.
Your open loop settings are going to force you into open loop almost as soon as you touch the throttle, You'll want to set both of the open-loop (TPS or kPa) to 0.
Your staged scaling factor should be 182.
Your second staging factor is set to MAP, but the MAP is set to 0. Set that to 60-70, and set the delta to 10, and set the staging delay to between 25-50
If you're running boost, set the second parameter to 110-120, and set the behavior to staging on 1 condition. (Judging by the size of your injectors, you're running boost, so your VE table and spark table are going to need redoing to account for boost if that's the case)
There may be other things to change, and the only one that should have kept you from running is the wheel decoder settings.
Also,
Your req_fuel might be a little low too, but you'll have to tinker with that until the car runs, then readjust it and your VE table once you get it running.
Also, since you have 2 teeth cut out of the CAS, turn off second trigger. And change "no missing" to "missing teeth" and "missing teeth" to "-1"
Your 160 degrees cranking pulse width is too low, you need to raise that and probably the rest from 80-100 deg F up by around 1-2 ms or more.
If you're using the BAC valve, you'll want to change your idle control to at least PWM with warmup only.
For your AFR table, I'd suggest that you run richer at low revs and low load. I always got a lot of misfires when I ran lean in that area.
Your open loop settings are going to force you into open loop almost as soon as you touch the throttle, You'll want to set both of the open-loop (TPS or kPa) to 0.
Your staged scaling factor should be 182.
Your second staging factor is set to MAP, but the MAP is set to 0. Set that to 60-70, and set the delta to 10, and set the staging delay to between 25-50
If you're running boost, set the second parameter to 110-120, and set the behavior to staging on 1 condition. (Judging by the size of your injectors, you're running boost, so your VE table and spark table are going to need redoing to account for boost if that's the case)
There may be other things to change, and the only one that should have kept you from running is the wheel decoder settings.
Also,
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 334
Likes: 2
From: south orange county
when i turn off 2nd trigger on the decoder the missing teeth or none missing is blocked. do i tun on 2nd trigger chang it to missing teeth and then turn off 2nd trigger or what. also where did you get the sheilded cas wire because i cant find it? also how far down do you grind down the teeth on the cas wheel?
Just set missing teeth to -1. The other setting doesn't matter.
If you're going to grind teeth, just trind them down until there's nothing left of them... grind it down to the base of the tooth.
I've always just taken the shielded wire from the stock harness. That seems to work fine for everything I've done.
If you're going to grind teeth, just trind them down until there's nothing left of them... grind it down to the base of the tooth.
I've always just taken the shielded wire from the stock harness. That seems to work fine for everything I've done.
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