Originally Posted by Redbul (Post 12141980)

You will find that stuttering or hesitation is endemic problem with the cars. If you get some help "running codes" that would be a good place to start. You may have to do this the old fashioned (count the blips) way as it is rare to find the right JDM analyser in North America. There is about 50 or more things that that process could tell you.

-I've read a lot about the "3k" hesitation that a lot of people have had issues with, and so far I've tried a couple of the remedies that other have had luck with like replacing the rubber hoses with silicone hoses or cleaning the ground connections also. I need to read up on how to "count the blips" so i can hopefully see whats wrong.

Another thing to do that is relatively cost free is to run a "smoke test".

-I'll also have to search and see how to run a smoke test too.


The codes will show malfunctioning electronic equipment and sensors. The smoke test will show any leaks in your air supply system, such as worn gaskets, cracked vacuum lines and many other things. Smoke will come leaking out all over the place on an old car.


If you still have the sequential set-up, you may want to consider replacing all the old solenoids sooner than later.

-when i was doing the vacuum hose job i replaced the old broken solenoids i had sitting there

Perhaps start with the twin "duty solenoid", green one attached to the front of the Upper Intact Manifold (UIM) ($200 at Atkins). It controls the waste gate and the "pre-turbo" valve which helps the transition to the second turbo.

-this was one one the solenoids that was broken that i needed to replace actually.

Consider replacing the MAP sensor and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor); The TPS ($200 at Atkins) can cause havoc if it is sending the wrong info to the ECU, which uses that data to essentially manage everything else.

-the map sensor and TPS sensor i'll look into so far i dont think ive had any issues with them other than the TPS not really adjusting my idly too much when i turn it.

New oxygen sensor are about $50 and good idea to replace relatively often.

-As old as the car is i need to replace this also.

Fuel pump is often the culprit. Check the o-rings. Also changing the fuel filter is a pain and so may not have got done when it should.

-I was thinking that i need to replace this along with the fuel injectors as well just in -case they might be clogged or something of the sort

There is no check engine light on JDM. Instead the JDM ECU will throw your car into "limp mode". This will cause hesitation and limit your RPM. The codes will hopefully tell you what the problem is.

-I was reading that there is no actual "CEL" and that some people rewired a jumper with with a LED and a 680 ohm resistor in line to read the make shift "CEL" i need to find the materials so i can make on also.

A faulty OMP definitely will throw you into limp mode. It could be just the electrical connector which is relatively easy to damage.

-i really hope its not the OMP but I'll also look into this also and see if there is a way to test for it to be good or not.

There is a considerable body of experience in Canada in working on JDM cars. Post your questions to the Canadian forum as well.


Note if you start to delete stuff, such as emission control solenoids, the ECU may not like it, and again you go into limp mode. Better to leave the solenoids in place, even if they are no longer doing anything.

-so far everything is still stock there except for the HKS intakes and APEXI air filters under the hood. other than that everything else should still be stock and just old haha

Even if you have replaced the plugs, make sure they were not damaged as you put them in.

-the plugs seems to be doing alright, the car started running stronger since i replaced them

A slight hesitation as you transition to the second turbo has been mentioned as far back as the earliest reviews of the cars. The fact that is was there to start with, well, I guess it might get exaggerated as the cars get older.

-I imaging the issued that were barely noticeable when it first came out would only be more prevalent as time goes on thats the down side of owning a car 24+ years old -_-

The sequential set up is very sweet, but you need patience and some $ to get it close to perfect.

-I know its going to need some time and $ to get it up and running the way i want it to, i was thinking i may want to go for a single turbo setup eventually once i understand more what kind of condition this engine is in.

Again get the codes and smoke test before you start playing whack-a-mole chasing possible causes around your engine bay.

Originally Posted by Redbul (Post 12141980)

You will find that stuttering or hesitation is endemic problem with the cars. If you get some help "running codes" that would be a good place to start. You may have to do this the old fashioned (count the blips) way as it is rare to find the right JDM analyser in North America. There is about 50 or more things that that process could tell you.

I've read alot about the "3k" hesitation that alot of people have had issues with, and so far ive tried a couple of the remedies that other have had luck with like replacing the rubber hoses with silicone hoses or cleaning the ground connections also. I need to read up on how to "count the blips" so i can hopefully see whats wrong.

Another thing to do that is relatively cost free is to run a "smoke test".

I'll also have to search and see how to run a smoke test too.


The codes will show malfunctioning electronic equipment and sensors. The smoke test will show any leaks in your air supply system, such as worn gaskets, cracked vacuum lines and many other things. Smoke will come leaking out all over the place on an old car.


If you still have the sequential set-up, you may want to consider replacing all the old solenoids sooner than later.

when i was doing the vacuum hose job i replaced the old broken solenoids i had sitting there

Perhaps start with the twin "duty solenoid", green one attached to the front of the Upper Intact Manifold (UIM) ($200 at Atkins). It controls the waste gate and the "pre-turbo" valve which helps the transition to the second turbo.

this was one one the solenoids that was broken that i needed to replace actually.

Consider replacing the MAP sensor and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor); The TPS ($200 at Atkins) can cause havoc if it is sending the wrong info to the ECU, which uses that data to essentially manage everything else.

the map sensor and TPS sensor i'll look into so far i dont think ive had any issues with them other than the TPS not really adjusting my idly too much when i turn it.

New oxygen sensor are about $50 and good idea to replace relatively often.

As old as the car is i need to replace this also.

Fuel pump is often the culprit. Check the o-rings. Also changing the fuel filter is a pain and so may not have got done when it should.

I was thinking that i need to replace this along with the fuel injectors as well just in case they might be clogged or something of the sort

There is no check engine light on JDM. Instead the JDM ECU will throw your car into "limp mode". This will cause hesitation and limit your RPM. The codes will hopefully tell you what the problem is.

I was reading that there is no actual "CEL" and that some people rewired a jumper with with a LED and a 680 ohm resistor in line to read the make shift "CEL" i need to find the materials so i can make on also.

A faulty OMP definitely will throw you into limp mode. It could be just the electrical connector which is relatively easy to damage.

i really hope its not the OMP but I'll also look into this also and see if there is a way to test for it to be good or not.

There is a considerable body of experience in Canada in working on JDM cars. Post your questions to the Canadian forum as well.


Note if you start to delete stuff, such as emission control solenoids, the ECU may not like it, and again you go into limp mode. Better to leave the solenoids in place, even if they are no longer doing anything.

so far everything is still stock there except for the HKS intakes and APEXI air filters under the hood. other than that everything else should still be stock and just old haha

Even if you have replaced the plugs, make sure they were not damaged as you put them in.

the plugs seems to be doing alright, the car started running stronger since i replaced them

A slight hesitation as you transition to the second turbo has been mentioned as far back as the earliest reviews of the cars. The fact that is was there to start with, well, I guess it might get exaggerated as the cars get older.

I imaging the issued that were barely noticeable when it first came out would only be more prevalent as time goes on thats the down side of owning a car 24+ years old -_-

The sequential set up is very sweet, but you need patience and some $ to get it close to perfect.

I know its going to need some time and $ to get it up and running the way i want it to, i was thinking i may want to go for a single turbo setup eventually once i understand more what kind of condition this engine is in.

Again get the codes and smoke test before you start playing whack-a-mole chasing possible causes around your engine bay.