Pic Request: Origin Wide Body Fd
 

I cant find any pics of the origin wide body FD, all I can find is a pic of a red one, please help me find some pics!!:)

Here is mine, still a work in progress but its the full Origin kit and 25mm front and 50mm rear.

Attachment 720465
Attachment 720466
Attachment 720467
Attachment 720468

I cut the bottom of the rears where it meets the bumper so things would line up, outside of that it would look something like this. Ill be getting my fenders cut/welded and the body finished up in the next month or so.

man looks awesome, thanks a million:)

No problem, the fitment on the kit isn't the greatest but its not bad. It needed trimming and cutting on the skirts and fenders but for a bodyshop it would be no problem, I do backyard bodywork and it wasn't much for me to get it to fit. For the price its better then I expected.

is it a true Origin kit? Curious as to why the fitment is not that good. Not bashing if its a replica, just curious if an original is roughly done.


With that said. The car looks amazing right now. Will be grade A when its finished and painted.

Most aftermarket body panels have fitment issues, replicas or not...

^correct.

I have had several cars with different kits and it its quite true, the better brands always fit much nicer. Ive had VIS, knockoffs, and authentic parts so I've seen my share. I also have tracked my cars so Ive seen a lot torn up as well lol. Origin-Lab quality is worth the cost I say.

The whole kit is authentic Origin-Lab on all parts.

The reason for not perfect fitments is I am not only using fiberglass bumpers but fenders as well, the amount of flex in them helps but fiberglass and metal are sooo different. If it was bumpers and sides only, I'm sure the fitments would be really close as my sides and rear went on with only minor work.

No matter what kit it is, there will always be minor tweaks, the FD is 15+yr old car so nothing is quite as fresh as it once was lol. Ive seen authentic metal kits, Mugen/TRD/Nismo and even they need a bit of work.

Thanks for the comments on the car, body fenders are being cut and welded next week!

I am aware of that, as I have seen and delt with that myself. I asked in reference to Ramy's post about replicas and people claiming that the real deal is always almost perfect.

where did you buy them? i googled it but only found the fender for the fc.... any help would be greattt

Find a Origin-Lab dealer in your area, email or call them: http://www.origin-lab.com/index.php?section=contact

I got mine locally at a Origin dealer.

thanks!

tai-lun are you molding the fenders or are you leaving them bolted with the lines showing?

At this point, even though we totally missed this season of track and auto cross time, it's going to be raced next season most likely so just rivits and bolts with some sealant to stop any major water leakage.

End of the month the FD should be heading into the body shop for full paint to stock black...or if the shop decides to sponsor me pearl black with a silver flake or something similar.

this wouldnt change the size of the rim you can fit since its just layed over the fenders correct? i would still have to roll the fenders?

if you dont mind how much did you pay?

I was sponsored on the bodykit partially due to the shop kind of owed me some money so it was half a bill:asian: but retail for a whole kit and all fenders look to spend over 1K, my guess is around 1.3K give or take.

Since they cover over the original body fenders, you can and should CUT a good 2-3" or so off the original rear quarters so you can run wider and lower offset wheels (which is the real point of widebody other then looks) If you don't want to cut up the body don't get overfenders.

For example now that I have my rears cut and welded 3" higher in the back over stock to make the inner fender flush with the Origin overfender, I can run what would be a insanely low offset wheel for a FD.

Example: Rears Work LS-105 19x10 -31

Stock before:
Attachment 720474
After cut and weld with fender test fitted on (its still on stock suspension still so no comments on fender gap lol):
Attachment 720475
:icon_tup:hella flush!

ohhh, i get it now! at first i thought the fenders just flared our and kept the wheel well opening the same size... now it makes sense that you cut them before installing the fender covers...

as for the price.. abour 1.3k for the whole kit? cuz if i remember correctly i saw the fenders for like 650 each so 1.3k rear and back.. is that how much JUST fenders should run me?

any side pics with the wheels on?...looks great btw

Is there anything special that you have to do in order to put that offset wheels on your car or do you just put them on and roll?

I would think that if you don't have some sort of adjustment the tires would wear funny.

I got a hook up on mine but 650 for fenders sounds about rightl, considering prep and fitting is minimal compared to the cheaper "ebay" aero parts that price is not bad at all.

Coming soon:icon_tup:, waiting for 3 more parts and I'll be putting all the wheels on the car due to my stocks have leaks and are sitting pretty flat. I'll get some pics for sure.

You can put them on and roll out, but it will look ghetto and the first bump you encounter your tires are going to slam into your fenders and it wont look so good for the tire or fender, so I don't recommend it. If you want wheels with offsets like mine you need to cut the fenders at least 2-3" and have them welded again for proper clearance and to keep flush with the over fender.

If you just want lower offset wheels without any cutting, all you need to do is roll inner fenders to clear the wheels. Its a much cheaper route and although the offsets wont be crazy low you can get the wheels nice and flush. The FD unlike Nissan's and Toyota's of the same era don't have their hubs close inside but rather further to the outside of the frame. So unless you go the overfender route or do a serious fender roll getting wheels near the 0 offset is not happening. You could do a roll and pull but on a FD I have only seen it a few times where it was done and looked good (ex. shineauto silver FD) or use a wheel to achieve the same look: http://cabaynes.com/cym.html <sweet choice on wheels and offset.

wow nice work. are you going to mold the rears or just rivet and paint over them?