Need guidance on picking audio components
 

Hey all, I'm kind of new to the audio scene, so go easy on me.

I'm looking at changing out my 87's stereo system. The space originally allocated to the head unit (huge bastard that it is) is being blanked and then filled with switches and gauges, so I'm planning on running it without a head unit. Audio jack in the glove box run to a 2-channel compact amp in the dashboard, then to a pair of 6.5" component speakers and tweeters. That's it.

Currently, my plans are:

JBL GTO608C - $69.79*
-6.5" component speakers x 2 (w/ 2 x tweeters)
-210W Peak, 70W RMS (each)
-2 Ohm
-92dB

Boss CE102 - $20.72*
-Class A/B 2-Channel
-25W RMS x 2 @ 4 Ohms, 50W RMS x 2 @ 2 Ohms
-100W Max (total)
-Full-range, low, and high pass filters

*Pricing off Amazon when I last checked, might be different in the next 30 seconds

6.5"s in the rear speaker towers, tweeters in in dashboard where the side triangle vents go (if they fit), crossover units in their respective rear bins. I don't have door cards with speaker holes in them.

I'm trying to do this cheaply and keep weight down, hence why everything's less than $100. I don't mind not having a loud ass sound system with huge bass, but I'd just like something loud enough for me to hear over a full 3" exhaust (albeit with a high flow cat and muffler). My current feelings on this set up is that the amp is underpowered for the speakers, but it's the most powerful one you can get for its size (4x3.25x1.625"!). Doubling in size, you have the Boss R1002 that's rated for 75W RMS x 2 @ 2 Ohms, but I've read that Boss is horrible with inflating their power output numbers. Though, going with anything else is basically asking for the required budget to double. Examples:

Amps: (these are just examples, chosen because they're physically small)
-Clarion XC1410 (75W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms, 50W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms, 7.125x2.75x1.375") - $89.99
-Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300x4 ([2 Ohms N/A], 75W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms) 1.53x4.25x6.75") - $137.37
-Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300x2 (150W RMS x 2 @ 2 Ohms, 100W RMS x 2 @ 4 Ohms, 1.53x4.25x6.75") - $143.00

Speakers:
-Infinity Reference 6030cs (6.5" Component, 90W RMS @ 2 Ohms, 93dB) - $109.00
-Kicker 11DS65.2 (6.5" Component, 60W RMS @ 4 Ohms, 90dB) - $90.68
-Pioneer TS-A1605C (6.5" Component, 60W RMS @ 4 Ohms, 90dB) - $64.63
-Pioneer TS-A1606C (6.5" Component, 87W RMS @ 4 Ohms, 91dB) - $72.40
-Pioneer TS-D1730C (6.75" Component, 60W RMS @ 4 Ohms, 88dB) - $90.20
-Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S (6.75" Component, 40W RMS @ 4 Ohms, 89dB) - $56.94
-Rockford Fosgate Punch P1675-S (6.75" Component, 60W RMS @ 4 Ohms, 89dB) - $97.49
-Sony XS-GS1720S (6.5" Component, 75W RMS @ 4 Ohms, 86dB) - $129.99 (off SE, Amazon N/A)

Also, I've read that the stock enclosures for the rear speaker towers suck in general, but I'd still rather use that location. Would an MDF enclosure be necessary to get better low frequencies or can I just use the stock enclosures with some sound-deadening? Reviews say 6.5-6.75" by themselves do well in the highs and mids, but have lackluster lows, so the balance sounds completely off, especially on the JBLs.

Thanks in advance!

50w RMS per speaker should be more than enough for your setup. I've Alpine KTP-445U in my daily Mazda6 (along with alpine speakers) and I can state the volume can go very very loud without any distortion. I must add that the quality of the head unit (this may not apply to you) plays a big role in the sound quality too.
In addition I have a powered compact subwoofer in the cabin like Kenwood KSC-SW11 (mine is Kicker Hideaway), you may want to consider this later on depending on the space issues etc.
I'm not quite familiar with FC's interior but having the speakers only in the rear enclosures might not be a very good idea - in the sedans the rule of thumb is that the driver or front passenger don't really hear the rear speakers very well, it's all the fronts. But FC being a coupe, I'm not sure if this would apply to it.

I did this with 6X9's in the bins.
Mind you they are 12 pounds a Piece..!! (comp speakers.)

My setup is an Pioneer Avic6000 with a Lanzar 5000w 5 channel.
6.5 inch Focals in the doors,4 inch CVT component speakers in the dash.That is front.
4 6x9 Cadence in the bins.
8 inch subs in the rear strut towers.

WHAT??????>...you asking me a question???..Sorry..I can't hear ya.It's freakin LOUD!.(hahahhahaa!)

Now that may not be your budget,but it does give you an idea about placement.

I read some more about the CE102, and apparently the internal components are built for 18W RMS x 2 @ 4 Ohms, so something like 36W @ 2 Ohms is its true rating, while expecting 30W per channel is more reasonable on stock FC electronics. I will be running a 130A Taurus alternator, but I'm still going to be running a pair of electric fans and an amp hog of a Supra fuel pump. Either way, the output of the CE102 is quite a bit lower than the 50W advertised.

I was under the impression that underpowering speakers was a bad thing. Overpowering them was obviously bad enough, but it's much easier to simply turn down the gain on the amplifier in that case. I read something about subwoofers requiring between 75% to 150% of the rated RMS power to be run safely, so I applied this towards the components. 75% of 70W is 52.5W, which 36W falls far short of. I'm starting to lean more towards the XC1410 because of this.

I'm a little hesitant on adding a subwoofer right now. Maybe I'll warm up to the idea later. I'm trying to keep this fairly lightweight. Currently, I'm just planning on running the existing speakers, but if I use the XC1410, I'll have the extra channels to expand. It's non-bridgeable, though 50W RMS @ 4 Ohms might be enough for an 8".

The rear speaker towers are aimed squarely at the rear hatch glass. Not exactly all that much space between them, but I think the small interior space of the FC will work to alleviate that. Worst comes to worst, I find some space under the passenger side of the dash to hide an enclosure in or trade an arm and leg for door cards with speaker holes.

misterstyx, I didn't even think it was possible to stick that many speakers in an FC.

Unless you have some giant amp I am guessing audio is the least of your problems as far as amperage. Can ignore it basically. Just keep an eye on your gauges (volts if not amps) they will tell you.

50W / 13 V = ~ 4 amps which is not much for an alternator. Also your fuel pump, depending on setup, ecu, etc., may not draw that much at idle. Depends how set up I guess?

For amps often the wattage specification is a peak and not a mean so the reality is much lower.

As for how it sounds, i guess you get what you pay for? Cars are noisy + lots of glass so making them sound good is not the easiest and when they do sound good it usually means it is loud. At least here, this isn't a Prius forum. I would talk to your local car audio shop even if you don't immediately buy anything...

Headless seems kind of sensible these days if the dash is taken. Note some amps might expect a pre-amp -- i.e. their input impedance tolerance may vary; about anything will work, but quality might vary of sound on the input side, idk product specifically...

Except for the bin speakers,no other speakers are really visible as they are placed in stock locations in the car.
This is in an S5 Coupe and I am still running the Stock alternator.

*(I'm in the middle of building another car around my next stereo!)

I guess I'll try and find some s5 door cards then. Audio is getting put on the back burner while I reprioritize on the engine.

Anyone have experience with mounting locations for tweeters? I'm looking at maybe getting components in my FD, but wasn't sure where I could put them.

only thing I've seen was making holes on the door panels above the main speakers to mount tweeters

I have seen someone use the inner door triangles, and grafted a tweeter pod onto them with fiberglass, body filler etc. they looked pretty slick. Better than sacrificing your door panels.

Yes, if the tweeter can fit inside the triangle plastics then that'd be the best place I guess.

I feel as if you're overcomplicating a very simple concept.

*Keep an aftermarket headunit, it doesn't take up very much room. They are 18w RMS @ 4ohm*
*Don't buy 2 ohm speakers, they'll sound like shit.*
*Location and Imaging is everything, so just slapping speakers behind you WILL NOT sound right.*

For all of this money you're spending, you could pick up a JVC Arsenal/Kenwood Excelon unit (great bang for the buck) with whatever capabilities you choose and run an Alpine KTP-445U (NOT A), and a set of Phoenix Gold, Hertz, CDT Audio, or even Alpine speakers. Depending on your listening preferences we could either way.

^He's got a point.

Although your setup sounds good in theory, the trick with car audio amplifiers is that in order to get a good signal, you want a strong preamp output. An average head unit will have 2.5 volt preamp outputs and a good one will have 4 volt outputs. Your Ipod or smartphone or whatever isn't going to put out a strong enough preamp signal to really take advantage of an amplifier. I've done it and I've seen it done, it works. It's just not my cup of tea. I don't trust that brand of audio equipment and I don't trust their ratings. I'm not surprised that someone found that the true rating is 18w RMS.

I'd just keep whatever head unit you have and mount it recessed behind your gauges and switches. Then leave a hole or use some tinted plastic or something so you can use the remote.

100% correct along with some of the other brands like SSL, Pyle, Rampage, Power Acoustik, etc.

Like others have said I think you're making this a bit over complicated. Empty out your car ash tray and dive in the couches to get a few extra bucks and you can definitely get a good radio that will blow that mini amp away but still have good sound.

Pioneer MVH-X370BT can be had around $65-$70, gives you bluetooth audio streaming(and calls), will put out ~25-30 watts RMS, front USB/AUX and comes with a remote. Grab a pair of Alpine Type-E Series SXE-1750S 6.5" component speakers for around $40-$50

Total investment of $100-$130 and you can have a decent sounding setup with the ability to expand a bit!

Waaaait a minute here. Who the heck are you and what makes you think you can peddle your ebay garbage here? This isn't Honda Tech pal. That's a 22 watt RMS head unit btw, not 25-30 watts RMS but I'd be glad to hear you argue otherwise.

Don't come in here riding off our coat tails when you weren't involved in the original conversation, giving us wrong information, resurrecting old threads, selling us poo on your third post. You have to be high if you think we're going to fall for that. Pay like the rest of the advertisers or eat a italian sausage.

You're absolutely right. This isn't Honda-tech, 300zxclub, Twinturbo.net, Miata.net, miataturbo.net, gmtruckclub, ls1tech, g35driver.com, my350z.com, or anyone of the 100 forums that I browse based on cars I've owned.
Contrary to what you think you read, links I posted lead to eBay SEARCH RESULTS, and not anything I'm affiliated with, selling, hocking, pawning, or whatever term you'd like to use. Feel free to look me up, I go by motocarr247 on eBay.

And I will apologize for misquoting the rms wattage of the deck I mentioned but I hardly think the OP would be concerned about the potential 2-3db difference given his application, but you're right I was not 100% correct when I made an assumption based on a 50 watt max rating. But I was pretty close wasn't I :).

The last post was a few weeks old, hardly a thread resurrection. 3-6 months, sure I probably wouldn't have said anything. I've got 15+ years mobile electronics experience. If I have information I think is of value I'll contribute so the OP and potential future readers can benefit. I don't proclaim to know everything, but I know what I know, and I also know what I don't.

Good sir. I think we got off on the wrong foot. Let me introduce myself. I'm the King of Nigeria, Burundi and Beirut. Recently I've been looking for a quality radio but you see I have a bit of a problem. I can only initiate wire transfer in the amount of 10,000 USD. If you would simply write me a check for half the difference, I'll give you the other half plus the cost of your fine goods. My associate in America will pick up the goods. Thank you.

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