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I have an existing 2-way 4" component in the doors, I also had a pair of 6 1/2 coaxials in the shock towers but took them out while I made a fiberglass sub enclosure for the rear. So I recently bought a pair of true 6 1/2" midbass drivers.

My question is: Should I make a 3-way upfront and put the coaxials in the back shock towers
or should I add the coaxials upfront and keep the midbass in the rear to not screw up my imaging?

I can unhook the hf on the coaxials so maybe I should just keep those in the rear and use the midbass upfront.

Well, any ideas and thoughts would be welcomed, I just have parts sitting around and no sound playing.

Thanks

what type of crossover are you useing? BTW mid bass in the rear would screw up your imaging.

If I need to construct a 3-way passive for the 6 1/2" midbass upfront I will, or just buy one that are close to the speakers' specs. As of right now I simply using the crossovers for the component 2-way

keeping the thread alive

If you can, build a three way crossover to use the mid bass upfront. For the best imaging only use the subs in the rear, but if you feel the need use the coaxials in th etowers. If you build a custom crossover set you points at:
Highpass 5000hz (tweeters)
band pass 800 - 5000 (mids)
band pass 60 - 800 (mid bass)
low pass 60 (subs)

with at least a 12db slope

can I make a three way crossover off of an existing 2 way? just plug the input of 2-way to that of the crossover that will handle the bass and run that crossover to the amp?

I am not 100% sure but I don't think you can. you would be beter off buying caps and coils and wiireing them to the speakers. Although it won't be in a pretty box it will still equal a crossover network. What type of speakers and what ohm are they? Are you using an amp? If so, on what speakers. I can send you the sizes of the caps and coils and a wireing diagram if you want.

The speakers are the memphis audio 2-way component (ms-4), the mid bass is the 6" midbass (mb-6). They are both 4 ohm speakers. Here is what memphis told me to do:

MS4 high-pass (250Hz) capacitor to be wired in series with the positive input lead to the crossover: 160uf (micro farad) capacitor.
MB6 (250 Hz) low-pass coil to be wired in series with the positive input to the speaker: 2.5 mHy (milli henry) coil. You could also add a 500uf (80Hz) capacitor in series along with the coil to create a band-pass for the 6", which would block low and high frequency information

I was thinking about just buying this 3-way crossover:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...802555204&rd=1

do you see any problems with this?


I have 2 amps now a memphis 50x2 and a sony 30x2, I could buy a beefier 2ch or buy a 4ch.

cant you put the midbass in your doors? thats worrked great for me in my vert no subs yet for me and therye doin good in the doors...just a suggestion

sub bass is omnidirctional so it doesnt matter much where you place it but the midbass should be closer to the staging..up front? cuz some midbass frequencies arent omnidirectional..atleast thats what ive been led to believe

putting the mid bass in the doors is my plan. I just was thinking about installing the coaxs there and wiring the rear midbass to play only low end in the shock towers. I am running across some problems with height clearence for the mid bass in the doors. Any solutions? I will already be extening the woofer 3/4" out from mdf spacer.

i didnt use any spacer but its probly a good idea to use one(better bass) not sure what you mean by height clearance. my midbass have a pretty long throw so they move alot and dont hit the panels..is tah what you mean? for the doors i just banged the hole out so theyd fit

This memphis midbass I have is like 3 3/4" deep so It might rub against the window if I don't bring it out some. I have the s4 door panels & doors too so I don't have the luxury of being able to put the midbass near the feet. I'm going to have to install it right in the middle of the panel above the pocket, and it will be extruding out a bit. This is my problem. I am desperately looking for s5 door panels with the factory kick panel.

You could cut into the S4 panel and install a tough plastic or metal speaker grille.

Are you planning to switch over to the S5 doors as well?

I wouldn't mind s5 doors, but I don't think I'll ever get around to putting them on or even graphing them on.

Understandable. The only reason I'm getting S5 doors is because my old ones were badly rusted, the first pair I got was S5, and my fenders and nose had to be removed and repainted anyway.

From what I saw in the FSM, it seems that you could graft in only a small section of metal from an S5 into an S4 door.

Understandable. The only reason I'm getting S5 doors is because my old ones were badly rusted, the first pair I got was S5, and my fenders and nose had to be removed and repainted anyway.

From what I saw in the FSM, it seems that you could graft in only a small section of metal from an S5 into an S4 door.

An alternative would be to make fiberglass speaker enclosures, which could be mounted on the door panel, or to replace the kick panels.

i keep forgetting i have a vert with no window isues there for the door speakers