Best place to splice switched 12v for gauges
I have tried splicing from the fuse box using a fuse tapper on the engine fuse but they aren't getting enough power.
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You should be using the fuse box signal as trigger only, the power for the gauges should be coming from the battery via a relay trigger by a switched 12V.
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Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 12516407)
You should be using the fuse box signal as trigger only, the power for the gauges should be coming from the battery via a relay trigger by a switched 12V.
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I suggest Google some simple relay diagram, they are pretty simple device, but you should have full understanding on how it works before trying to wire one up.
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Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 12516412)
I suggest Google some simple relay diagram, they are pretty simple device, but you should have full understanding on how it works before trying to wire one up.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6ce94b73a3.jpg |
Yup, 86 85 pair is the trigger, while 30 87 is the load.
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Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 12516407)
You should be using the fuse box signal as trigger only, the power for the gauges should be coming from the battery via a relay trigger by a switched 12V.
Is that why my volt meter bounces to the radio and turn signals? |
Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 12516436)
Yup, 86 85 pair is the trigger, while 30 87 is the load.
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Originally Posted by ATC529R
(Post 12516437)
Is that why my volt meter bounces to the radio and turn signals?
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Originally Posted by ATC529R
(Post 12516437)
Is that why my volt meter bounces to the radio and turn signals?
Originally Posted by broman99
(Post 12516440)
awesome thanks, also though, if I got a 5 prong relay with an 87 and 87a can I run 2 gauges off of it?
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Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 12516443)
They are opposite, 87 is normally open (on when 12V trigger is active) and 87a is normally closed (on when 12V trigger is NOT active).
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Most of these automotive relay are rated at 20-40A, so that output is more than enough to feed all your gauges, just run them all in parallel. I run a Painless wiring fuse block that has a 20A relay, and that feed all the add-on electronic like gauges, EBC, WI and WB controller.
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Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 12516470)
Most of these automotive relay are rated at 20-40A, so that output is more than enough to feed all your gauges, just run them all in parallel. I run a Painless wiring fuse block that has a 20A relay, and that feed all the add-on electronic like gauges, EBC, WI and WB controller.
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That’s with the car on? Your battery source should be between 13.5V-14.4V when the car is running.
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Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 12516476)
That’s with the car on? Your battery source should be between 13.5V-14.4V when the car is running.
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Yeah voltage drop is normal with load, but as long as your voltage is above 12V there shouldn’t be any difference in your gauge read out. Even if you drop below 12V, a well designed gauge will still read the same as the regulator that drive the reference voltage should accept 9-15V.
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Im getting a replacement tomorrow and see if thats the case. I hope so because if its not that then it might be the battery but that would be really annoying (I replaced it the same day I started having problems).
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~14V is fine, I don’t think it’s your battery/alternator. Where are the gauges ground to?
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On a screw that holds a metal line or something onto the drivers side firewall. They are both ground through that wire but like I said before the temp gauge seems to work just fine off that ground.
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Seems like a gauge issue to me, you can measure the input voltage at the pressure transducer to see if it changes as your 12V source to the gauge drop. It should remain at 5V, but if it changes then your gauge is sensitive to voltage fluctuation.
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A replacement gauge is arriving today so I will find out then. I really hope it is because this has been bugging the crap out of me all week.
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Well, now I have news. The new gauge did not fix the issue and unless I just happened to get a buggered one straight out the box, that is not the problem. It also isnt the supplied cable as I replaced that with the new one and it did nothing.
The big thing though: I also noticed that when ever I turn or the headlights or press the brakes, my rpm goes down and all the other original gauges drop a little. It seems like something is sucking the power. I also tried a different battery and it didn't change anything. I'm going to try replacing all the fuses since they all look old and that's the easiest next fix. Otherwise I have no clue what the problem is. |
If everything drop together then you are chasing a bigger problem, first check your alternator, make sure it is pumping out enough juice to handle everything.
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It is, sadly... lol. I am starting to think my main battery ground or some other grounds are losing connection. I noticed a few weeks ago while driving that all my gauges were reading lower than usual especially whenever the headlights were on. Like my voltage was lower with headlights on (dropped from 14 down to under 12 volts) and my oil pressure gauge would consistently read lower at idle, when usually it always read 30. So that got me into a rabbit hole about gauges and their accuracy which lead me to getting the aftermarket gauges so I could atleast be certain of how my car was doing. Initially I had been told it could be a grounding issue but then decided to go with the inaccurate gauges idea because that seemed easier and (at the time) more likely. But now with these problems after getting a new battery, checking with a different more powerful battery, and rewiring almost my entire circuit, I can't think of anything else. Also, I am 95% sure it is the stock wiring harness, even though the engine was replaced with a crate 13b. It has all the corrosion and dirt and brittleness of 34 year old wire, plus on the receipt for the installation, it said nothing about the installation or purchase of a new wiring harness. So I am going to try cleaning the shock tower ground and possibly the starter ground tomorrow, and if all else fails I will remove everything I did and take it to a trustworthy shop I know of nearby that should be able to find and fix the problem for me. I really hate not fixing and working on the car myself but I have to admit defeat sometimes...
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I'm afraid you have to chase down the main issue first, start with the alternator.
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