Zeroing Timing problems
 

Happy Holidays to all

I have the E8 updated the firmware to 35 confirmed in version box from 1.62> 1.89 a couple of times but can not get the timing to stay set. I get it all lined up leading/trailing angle 76.0 tooth 11 cycle power and the values hold but the pulley goes back to where I started what gives?

Thanks for any help

First you lock the timing, adjust it according to the FSM then unlock it and forget it. Here is a step by step guide courtesy of C. Ludwig:

Most timing lights are finicky. I've tossed several cheapo and Craftsman lights. Finally fell in love with a used Ferret light off ebay for a decent price. So many times with other lights I could see the plug arcing but the light would still not trigger. Not so with the Ferret. Also, if the plugs are heavily fouled and not arcing then you probably won't get a strobe pulse on the light. Use clean plugs stuck in the wires and NOT-installed in the engine but simply grounded to the fender or intake. This way you can visually see that the ignition is firing. If it is and the light isn't producing a strobe the light has issues.


To zero the timing with a stock pulley do the following. If you have an aftermarket pulley tell us what it is and someone will give you some numbers to use.

-Stab the CAS according to the FSM.
-Lock the timing in the ignition setup page.
-Set the timing at -5 and the split at 15.
-With those setting L1 should align with the yellow mark on the pulley (-5) and T1 should align with the red mark (-20).
-Crank the engine (don't have to start it) while shooting the light to get the timing close. It usually helps expedite things to pull the plugs from the engine so that it cranks freely. Install the plugs in the plug wires and ground them to the fender or intake so that they'll still produce a spark. VERY IMPORTANT to disable the fuel pump and purge the rails so that fuel is not injected into the engine while you're cranking it like this.
-Adjust the trigger angle or twist the distributor until they align with the pointer.
-Now unlock the timing in the ignition setup page, reinstall the plugs and attempt to start the engine. Using NEW plugs is usually a big help in getting a clean slate tune going since it's likely the fuel is nowhere near correct.
-Once the engine is running get the fuel good enough so that it will idle on it's own and can be gently revved to 4k or so.
-Reconnect the timing light and again lock the timing in the ignition page.
-Shoot the timing again at idle. It's likely the mark has moved slightly from when you set it up cranking the engine. Manipulate the trigger angle or CAS to zero the timing again at idle.
-Slowly rev the engine with the timing locked while shooting it with the timing light. Make sure the timing does not drift from idle up through the rev range. If it drifts wildly you have issues in setup or wiring. If it drifts a small amount (2-3*), which is not uncommon with VR triggers, you can correct that with the advanced trigger setup in the ignition setup page.
-Attach the light pickup to L2. You should see the strobe at 180* opposite L1. Same for T2. With L2 you may actually see the same marks as L1 since they fire in wastespark. That's OK. But if T2 is not 180* out of T1 you have an issue that needs to be addressed.
-Once you know the timing is steady and accurately zeroed you can unlock it and forget it.

I had the same problem https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/another-haltech-wont-start-796431/

Thanks I will try moving the cas and see what happens but It never did this in 1.62?

After you cycle the key on/off is the timing lock box still checked or are you turning that off?

Yes, have you dont this with the timing lock on or just by the maps?

Also, where did your original tune come from? have you made sure to wire up the triggers correctly? Variations on the settings may suggest you could have the main trigger wired backwards, or have incorrect edges. How do you have it all setup?

Chris
I downloaded from the net even started another default map. The lock box is still checked after cycle and have not unlocked it yet.

Claudio
hal green>cas green
hal blue>cas both whites
hal yellow>cas red
hal red> not connected

locked timing
-5.0
15.0
76.0
tooth 11
charge 4.5
spark break 600
spark mode>distributor
falling
falling
constant charge
constant charge
ign map 1
overall ign trim 0.0

multi tooth
reluctor
reluctor
falling
falling
trig>2
home>2
0-0

Cladio.
The map you sent me did not change anything and everything is wired correctly.

I can zero the timing and it stay in 1.62 and 1.71 This makes no sense if anyone can think of anything please help me out I'll try it. Ive updated the firmware about 10-15 times and also halwin about 5.

But you didnt answer my original question. Where did your initial base map come from?

Something isnt right. If you can get the timing zero'd in properly using v1.71 and the engine runs ok, and all is well, leave it like that and just run 1.71.

Just as a curious question, when you perform the firmware update, which software version do you use to do it on? The corresponding software to firmware? ie., 1.89 to update to build 35, or 1.71 to update to build 32, etc.?

Just in case, check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w81z0EWpJDU