TUrned a corner and died???
 

I was taking an exit clover leaf corner and comming arround the bottom of the clover leaf the car stalled like as it if were turned off. I tried to start it could hear even pulses from the engine but nothing. Then I notice that the fuel pump wasn't priming, nor the realay clicking.
there is 3/4 tank of gas.
When I got the car back to my place I tried to connect my computer up to the haltech and neither of the relays are clicking and I cannot connect my computer to the haltech. I haven't changed any of the setting or wiring.
I can hear the coils buzzing. but there is nothing else I can think of if you could give me som suggestions or a hand it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You

check your powers and ground
you probably have lost your key on power. (grey wire)
then check your fuses and relays

Shoot the installer...


-Ted

Ted, i don't think that was very helpful.
It turns out the 30 A Fuse in the main fuse block (not haltech) was burned out... the question now is why did a 30 A fuse blow?
Any suggestions?

What's running through that circuit, maybe there was too much load on it.

It is the stock EGI fuse on the FC.

fuses blow all the time and for no reason other then a manufacture defect
replace the fuse and if ity blows again then you have a problem

What i ment was, that if you have more things connected to that same circuit that would cause it to overload and blow.

There is nothing more than stock, the ecu and the coils.
So I am unsure I checked all of my solder points and they are all intact and still completely sealed by shrink tubing. So not entirely sure why it blew.

What has been "added" to that part of the circuit?
I'm sure the "installer" would know. :)
I would still shoot the installer. :D


-Ted

wow Ted your violent...lol

usually when a fuse blows it is because there is a short in the system.

The first thing I would do is follow the wires to and from the fuse in question making sure that there are no exposed portions to other wires or a gounded surface.

another unseen short would be water... May be you have a leak somewhere in the car where water is being introduced to the system temporarely grounding the system and blowing the fuse

electrical problems can be a PITA to find... good luck

one more thing ... what direction was the turn... to the left ????

I am reviving this thread because I recently experienced a very similar problem to the one jreynish described above.

The Car
1994 RX-7 FD

Power Mods
Rebuilt by Eccentric Performance at 89k with new seals and springs. Emissions and OMP removed (I run premix), cold start removed, mild streetport, stock twins running in parallel, short K&N intakes, 3" turbo-back with HF cat & RB dual tip, Walbro GSS341 pump, Koyo radiator, GReddy Profec B-Spec II boost con., Haltech Sprint RE Platinum with with wideband O2

What happened
I was picking up my friend one night to go for a drive. The weather was clear and the temperature was around 60F. The only abnormality was that the car had been idling very low on hot starts that day, which I take to be a common problem. I parked at my friend's house for about 10 minutes. With the car still warm, we started it up to go for a drive. It settled into a low idle (~500 RPM). We waited for a light before turning out onto the street. As soon as it changed, I turned (right) in 1st and the car shut off mid-corner. I have admittedly stalled the car a few times before, but this was different. I gave it plenty of gas and we were already moving forward. I tried to start it twice, but it just kept cranking without turning over. Kickstarting was also unsuccessful.

Troubleshooting
I pulled the plugs from the back rotor to check for flooding. The plugs (which I replaced recently) were dry and the electrodes had nice, sharp edges. No flooding. With the gas cap off, I had my friend listen for the sound of the fuel pump priming when I turned the key on. It did not prime. Usually, it is audible from the cabin. I found the Haltech FP relay and pulled it to check continuity. It was good. I checked to see if it clicked when I turned the key on. Nothing.

The next day, I returned to the car with a new FP relay and a new pump. After replacing the relay, the pump still would not prime. I replaced the pump. It still would not prime. I then noticed a strange buzzing sound coming from the ignition coil/igniter area of the engine bay while the key was turned on. I checked for spark, and strangely, the trailing plug wire that I pulled was arcing continuously with the key on! I had a friend crank the starter, and got one or two pulses from the wire. I checked continuity of the coils and the voltage to them. The coils were good, but I was getting 5V at each connector. I checked the harness between the igniter and the coils. Everything checked out.

The Solution
People rarely post this part of an issue, which is the most important part for other forum users!

I tried connecting to the ECU with the key on, and discovered that it wasn't powering up. I dug around in the wiring harness under the dash and discovered...the Haltech fuse block!!! I am new to Haltech and didn't realize it existed. Sure enough, the ECU fuse was blown (10A). I replaced it with another fuse, got a jump (the battery was worn down from repeated start attempts), and the engine fired right up as if nothing had happened!

Summary Of Symptoms

• Engine cranks but will not start (will not kickstart either)
• Battery has 12V and plenty of cranking power
• No flooding
• Buzzing sound from ignition coil/igniter area with key on (see next)
• Continuous spark from coils with key on
• Fuel pump relay doesn't click
• Fuel pump will not prime with key on, even with jumper in diagnostic port
• No power to ECU

Conclusion
Always check your fuses! Here is what I believe happened. The ECU fuse blew because of some spike in electrical activity in the circuit, which was probably a short caused by wires touching or something similar. Because the ECU wasn't getting power from the battery, it wasn't sending signal (e.g. ground) to the igniter, so the coils were arcing continuously to the frame. This caused the electrical buzzing noise I was hearing. The ECU also wasn't sending power to the fuel pump relay, hence the lack of 'clicking'. Obviously, this prevented the pump from sending any fuel to the engine. I am going to check all of my wiring and make sure this never happens again.

If anyone has a better explanation, feel free to post it. I hope this is helpful to someone.

The Sprint ECUs do not come from Haltech with a fuse block or relays. The installer has added those.

The low idle condition is one that is easily solved with a properly working BAC valve. While the Sprint doesn't have closed loop idle control natively, it can be had with the addition of the I/O 12 expander box. Or the selection of the Sport ECU from the get go.

Go back to the corner and ask it. WTF did you do to my car.

Thank you, C. Ludwig. All of that is very good to know. I will have to look into the expander box. My BAC is still present, I think.

I know! It was like someone fired an EMP at my car.

By the way, rx72c, I just replied to your idle problem thread. I have a similar issue.