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TPS diagnostic error
I am using the stock 20b TPS. It is wired correctly and is calabrated... All seems fine while driving, but then I see on my laptop that an error was thrown. I use the Sensor Diagnostic to find out that the TPS has an error???.
I looked at the gauge page and it shows that it is still moving up and down:scratch: I double checked the calibration and it looks good but I re calibrated it anyhow.:scratch: I turn the key off and on and the error goes away:scratch: I drive the car some more and the error pops back up:scratch: Mulitmeter shows 5.1 volts at WOT so the TPS is working:scratch: as you can see, I have been doing a lot of head scrathing:) I suppose i could try the 1.82beta firmware... has Haltech published the new version yet or is it still a beta version? |
The simple way is not to use a stock old garbage. Just use haltech TPS. It is very simple to install.
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Originally Posted by funklove
(Post 8051781)
The simple way is not to use a stock old garbage. Just use haltech TPS. It is very simple to install.
That's just a not a good statement. Often the throttle shaft will return to less than 0%. Meaning when the TPS is calibrated with the engine off then it's started the vacuum can twist the shaft just enough to get an error. Or the same thing can happen in a drop throttle situation where the return spring and high vacuum work together. Either way you can set the idle stop screw (not the bleed screw) where you need it then back it off 1/4 turn or so. Calibrate the TPS then move the idle stop screw back to where it was. |
Agreed.
Dunno about FD's, but FC throttle bodies are a pain in the ass. The throttle shaft is not centered. (Either that or the Haltech / GM TPS unit is not made to work with a centered shaft?) It takes some time trying to massage it to get everything to work. Even there, you can still see the deflection from idle to WOT. This deflection will either cause the TPS to come loose or eventually kill itself. This also causes tiny signal errors... :( -Ted |
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 8051889)
That's just a not a good statement.
Often the throttle shaft will return to less than 0%. Meaning when the TPS is calibrated with the engine off then it's started the vacuum can twist the shaft just enough to get an error. Or the same thing can happen in a drop throttle situation where the return spring and high vacuum work together. Either way you can set the idle stop screw (not the bleed screw) where you need it then back it off 1/4 turn or so. Calibrate the TPS then move the idle stop screw back to where it was.
Originally Posted by RETed
(Post 8052023)
Agreed.
Dunno about FD's, but FC throttle bodies are a pain in the ass. The throttle shaft is not centered. (Either that or the Haltech / GM TPS unit is not made to work with a centered shaft?) It takes some time trying to massage it to get everything to work. Even there, you can still see the deflection from idle to WOT. This deflection will either cause the TPS to come loose or eventually kill itself. This also causes tiny signal errors... :( -Ted ahhhhh, cool... makes sense guys, because I was messing around with preloading of the TPS to see if I could get a little better response out of it... but i didn't think it would error it out. I will re set the TPS and try again:icon_tup: |
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