Timing question on FD E11V2
 

Here is another question about timing.

Claudio says that the settings for an FD have to be

Lock Degrees BTDC -5
Lock Degrees Trailing Split 15
Trigger Angle BTDC 65

Tooth offset 5
Constant Charge 5ms

Direct Fire (I'm running for LS1 coils)

. I could not get my car running at all with these settings.

I have mine setup at

Lock Degrees BTDC -5
Lock Degrees Trailing Split 15
Trigger Angle BTDC 58

Tooth offset 11
Constant Charge 5ms

I have an after market pulley with stock trigger sensors. Single tooth.
I've never really checked a timing on a rotary until know. As I check with a timing with the timing light, the V notch lines up with the indicator on the front cover.
On the stock pulley is a inscribed mark Offset showing 0, 10, 20 degrees. You can only see it with a timing light. As I rev the engine, the notch moves counter clockwise and the 0 degrees mark moves toward the indicator. It lines up with the 0 degree mark right on the Indicator.

Claudio says that I might have the wires backwards. I triple checked to make sure but I thought I wired them correctly. If I did wire them backwards, could I just switch the connectors to the sensors and just use the top settings? What should I be seeing when I check the timing. I'm still unsure. One more thing. I'm seeing 1250F on the Exhaust Temperature Gauge. That seems to me kind of high for just getting on it for up to 4 rpm. Can somebody explain to me what I could do to check that the timing is correct?

Thanks

Aldo

Give me a call today after 3:30 pm and I'll give you a hand.

When i said backwards, i didnt mean you had the trigger as the home and home as the trigger, i meant your positive and negative reversed. When you have the sensors wired backwards (pos. and neg. leads) the giveaway is timing drift at the crank shaft or an oscillation in the timing mark, going backwards and forwards really quick.

If you wire your main trigger to the single tooth and the home trigger to the 12 tooth it just doesnt even start from all the erratic firing.

Another thing that happens is that people dont RESET the ECU correctly and just hit apply and OK, you need to reset the ECU on any changes made to ANY SETUP menu, or the changes dont apply correctly. When you do turn the ECU off and back on again, who knows whats in there.

My guess is that the crank pully you have either is not made in the same fashion as the stock one, or those marks are not ATDC like the stock one and are BTDC which changes things dramatically.

If the pully has a zero degree mark, set your timing lock to 0, and put the timing light on L1 and see if it lines up, and regardless of what settings you get on the trigger angle and tooth offset, if it lines up, and when you rev the engine it DOES NOT move, you're done.

Timing
 

Once again Thank you for the input. This is the first chance I've had to look at your remarks.

Chris, thanks for the offer. I'll try and give you a call tomorrow.

Claudio, You are a wealth of information. I wish you lived closer. I'm to take a look at what you said. I'll give you guys some feedback after I quadruple check my wiring.
You are right, I normally just hit apply and ok. Sometimes I shut the ignition off. You can see the change in the engine instantaneously when you hit apply. Expect a phone call tomorrow.

Thanks

Guys