steps in tuning??
 

ok people, I have never seen anybody tune a car. I know that the afr's and timing are very important. When get on "offline"(E6K) I search around and check things out just to see what's what. What are the steps in tuning the e6k?? Where are you supposed to start, where are you seposed to stop. Im not trying to tune my car of any sort, I just want to know wtf is going on. sorry if this doesnt make sence. little help please.

1. Get base map.
2. Zero timing.
3. Cruise around with friend and play with map if you have either an A/F gauge or EGT. Move fuel bars but don't move timing.
4. Go to dyno and tune fuel maps.
5. Tune timing maps and then do some final tweaking with some other maps.

hell yea, thats kinda what I thought. So when the I find rich or lean spots on the map I want to adjust them ? When should I know to advance the timing?? Is this correct, the more timing I run the more horsepower I will put down. No more than 14 degrees on pump gas right(93 octane)
Im just tryn to get to know things better. Sorry for such a newb question

The problem with tuning timing is that there is a optimum timing for power, but more importantly there is a maximum advance, a point where the engine will knock. So, if you don't have a dyno, you don't know when you've reached the best timing, so you don't know when to stop, and you are aslo playing with fate, cause you don't know where the knock theshold is. That least thats how I understand it.

How do you detect knock if you do not own a knock display?? I know there is a point in where you can here a ping on a rotary but that usually to late(with 3mm seals)
so its best to zero the timing if the car is not tunned?
Is there a write up anywhere that help me understand this kinda stuff?? Im not talking about a 3 inch think book or anything like that just something I can get to on the internet.

Zeroing the timing is different than putting the whole timing map to zero. Zeroing the timing just means getting the timing mark on the pulley to match what the Haltech wants to see. So 5 really is 5.

Tuning the timing, as Fatboy7 said, is tough. Most base maps will be fine to drive around with , I have used two of them that way, but to really get the power go for the fuel maps first and then hop on a dyno. I know they are expensive, which is why I never went, didn't have the time either, but its the only way. I wouldn't mess with timing on the road unless you are sure you have some room to play with.

with pump gas be conservative with the timing it will save you alot of money in the long run. 14* with pump gas is ok depending on boost level/turbo/intercooler combination. be careful and work slowly and the engine will come along great. start rich and low on the timing and work the two.

tims- can i meet you up again??..I need to be educated about this E6K stuff. I finally got a temp permit and insurance and drove the car around for a while. I noticed that before it just about to boost it would hesitate. And a guy from another 7 followed me on the street and he told me that my car would puff some smoke.

Probably a injector staging issue, as that is usually where people set their staging point. It's probably rich if your puffing smoke.

black or blue/white smoke? but most likely a staging issue. I PM'd you about my schedule. lots of racing and I have three race cars in various stages of completion. if you came out to the track I might be able to help, but this may be to far to drive the car if it is not running well.

Zero'ing out the timing is *ABSOLUTELY* paramount. It must be done prior to any tuning, period.

B

Is the procedure for locking the timing on an FD posted anywhere?

zeroing it you mean? here is an old thread i answered my own question...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=151950

Thank you very much. I did this about two years ago, but I couldn't find the instructions this time around.