Sprint RE FC3S Install Document (Nov 02 2011)
 

Howdy folks, I've finally had an opportunity to make my write-up for the Sprint RE installed in an FC3S 2nd gen. It details all of the wiring that's needed, any modifications done, etc. Takes about one good day to do it properly. For those on a budget that don't want the extra output and input options the Sport series provides, the Sprint RE is the one for you in my opinion. It can control the RE triggers out of the box and has trailing ignition support built-in. Can do direct-fire sequential ignition with four individual coils to get rid of the factory dual post leading ignitor/coil pack. I'm attaching the install write-up for this. If there's any errors I've made please let me know but I don't think so. This was done during an install on a live car that's now running and driving.

I've also got a rough base map I'm attaching here but the secondaries are 1200's with 3W 3Ohm inline resistors. The rest is stock: 550 primaries (S5 high imp), stock 2nd gen ignition (dual post leading coil/ignitor pack and factory sequential trailing coils/ignitor pack w/ 5V input), street ported 13BT with no extra particular frills. The base map is still PRELIMINARY which means don't expect it to take your car to the moon and back. It is meant primarily and only for getting something on the ECU that's better than the base map provided with the Platinum software package. All of the major settings are correct. These include:

- Coolant Temperature/Fuel Correction
- Air Temp/Fuel
- Air temperature and coolant temperature sensor corrections for S4 sensors (need to verify S5)
- Crank timing and primer fuel map
- Post start fueling
- Injector Firing Angles, Staged Bar Injection, and Injection Angle Split
- Custom made Leading and Trail-Split Ignition maps using my own tuned ignition curves as well as negative trail-split in vacuum
- Transient (throttle pump) settings
- And all the other Basic/Advanced Settings stuff

The fuel curves are rough but appear to be ballpark. I have NOT put a wideband on this yet so this map will change in the future. It's preliminary and intended to just get something on a car that will get it started and running better. Also, the zero throttle map is turned on and on this system it's firing both primaries and secondaries although the secondaries are at a much lower injection rate. The car described above using this map idles perfectly with the zero throttle map where it is but will have to be raised linearly and uniformly for 550's in the secondary spots (probably a good 50% or so) so be mindful of that. This map also uses the Internal 2.5bar MAP sensor.

Any question? Fire away here with 'em.

B

Here's the Map
 

Here's the preliminary base map.

B

Hi I'm planning on installing a haltech sprint re running stock ignition with the full function engineering crank angle trigger kit I'm gonna be running injectors dynamic hi imp. 750cc primaries and 1000cc secondaries I have only the supplied base nape and I'm not sure how to wire in a s5 tps also do u kno if we can use the ecu outputs to run eomp on a s5 tII?

You wouldnt be able to suply wireing diagram, and a list of things needed to do this would you.

Hi BDC,

I will test it in my car tomorrow I have day off to play with it. I'll change a bit the parameters as Im running direct fire with LS1 Haltech coils and 1600c injectors with a 60-1 and a SP S4 block.

this is the great thing about the internet I'm in Panama City, Panama but I can go ahead and test this. This is my second install of the sprint series, the first was in a Mazda 2 TURBO.... that was a interesting install.

BTW I got a sprint RE, I changed to haltech from megasquirt as I had some problems with my stock coils and a fried cap in my old MS board.

can you explain a bit more about zero throttle map?

Got my car started with your map. It's ok. I figured out the zero throttle map . I must have something wrong with my fuel pressure or my injectors as I always need to put more fuel in all the maps I test and Im running larger fuel injectors than stock.

Sure. It's pretty simple. When the ECU sees an off-throttle condition and the engine is below the top threshold on the zero throttle map (if I recall correctly, 3000rpm on the Sprint RE?), it will ignore the standard fuel maps and instead eyeball the zero throttle map and fire the injectors at the bar at that current engine RPM as it decelerates. The Sprint RE will fire all four injectors -- primaries and secondaries, but staggers the load between the two more dominantly on the primaries.

B

Noticed the same thing here with this reworked map and the Haltech-provided base map. No idea why.

B

thanks!!! One thing I do love about haltech is this new software...this thing is just awesome.

Curious why you feel the zero throttle map is necessary?

It's not absolutely necessary but it can be beneficial on some setups. Why do you ask?

I've just never come across an application where I thought it worked better than the base fuel map. Even for bridge ported applications. Just seems to be more hassle than any issue it might solve. That's been my take anyway.

Where donyou pick up the inline resistors for the injectors? I'm running 1200cc secondaries too.
Thanks
Billy

mouser.com

Could I use a resistor box from a dsm?

I'm using the OEM resistor box for rx-7, I don' see why you couldn't use it. As long as the actual impedance is in range (high impedance) there will be no problem. Haltech does sell the resistor pack to be able to use low impedance injectors with the sprint unit.

how do you wire up a wide band in to this though,and I am still a little confused about how the 12v power wires for the fuel injecters are roughted and splisted.

leaving this here because the person i purchased the haltech from looks like he may have used this method to install his harness.


OK, i started to dissect the harness today. I have figured out all of the sensors, so that's no longer an issue.

For power and ground, it looks as if he took all of the power, including 12v switched and ran them into a single lead. Does this sound correct? Which would mean he used one relay?

This would mean that the fuel pump was ran off of another relay and fuse. Correct?

Also, the 12v switched the runs power to the DPO's has been cut. Any reason?

any help is greatly apreciated!!

I recently installed and tuned one of these on a customers car i built. It was a s5 tII large street port with a bnr stage 1 turbo. Car made 315whp on a mustang Dyno. Very impressed with the turbo to say the truth. The ecu works rather well but wish it had a lil bit more for idle control like the platinum series. Ending up only using the bad for cold starts and having the mechanical stop for hot idle. But other than that ecu isn't bad for the price as long as you know your not getting all the frills and thrills of the others.

Just a quick question on relays. Here is how I have it set up.

12vpower, 12ecu switched, and 12vINJ to--87 terminal. (previous owner has them all soldered into one lead.

Fused 12v supply to battery----30 terminal
Ground---85 terminal
12v supply from car.----86 terminal.

Is this correct? I have nice weather right now. And would love to start my car this weekend.

Billy

What is the relay controlling? Is this the main ecu on relay? You usually don't wanna mix switched with live powers. Can cause some havoc back feeding voltage to stuff when not needed

It's for Ecu power, the wires were like that from previous owner.

So what's turning on the relay? This is how relays should be wired
30: lived fused power from the battery
85:Ground
86: 12v switched signal to turn on relay
(85&86 can be wired either way, it's the internal coil your powering up so it not polarized)
87: power to source. In your case the ecu powers.

^ thanks a lot man. This worked out great. I got it all hooked up and the pump primes when
I turn the key. I haven't tried to start it yet, because my dog chewed my laptop cord in half. Lol.