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-   -   Haltech Rx7 s4 13bt w/ e6x wont start (https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/rx7-s4-13bt-w-e6x-wont-start-1098402/)

rx770 04-02-16 05:51 AM

Rx7 s4 13bt w/ e6x wont start
 
So as the title says

My engine is a fresh rebuilt 13b turbo w/ stock coils, 2bar map sensor, 550cc primaries and 1000cc secondaries with haltech e6x and everything else stock.
went ahead and hooked up my e6x double and triple checked my wiring but the car wont start at all we tried pull starting it but it wont idle. lost rpm, fuel and battery volt gauges as well

Quote

Well, I'm at my last straw with my FC Its ran on a Haltech E6X.

1987 Mazda Rx7 TurboII w/ 91 JDM TurboII Swap, Haltech E6X

noticed that there's an ignition problem. I'm getting spark in both coils, but the leading coils aren't firing during cranking or running. If I turn the key on, then I get one arc in the leading coils. But none while cranking. I've double and triple checked my wiring and it seems good. No bad connectors and no interference.




Quote

MAIN:
No. Cylinders: 4
Load Type: MAP1BAR (I'm using a GM 1 Bar at the moment)
RPM: 8500
Rotary/Cylinder Mode: Rotor
ECU Mode: Advanced
RPM Type: Ignition
RPM mode: 10500 RPM

FUEL:
Injection Mode: Staging
Post Start Temp: 54
Post Start Time: 5
Ign Divide By: 2
Staging Bar #: 12
Barometric Press Lock (mbar): 1013

IGNITION:
Trigger Angle: 60
Tooth Offset: 11
[Lock Timing box is unchecked]
Lock Timing Angle: -5
Spark Mode: Distributor
Spark Output: Constant Charge
Spark Edge: Falling
Constant Period: 3.8ms

TRIGGER:
Trigger Angle: 60
Trigger Type: Multitooth
Teeth No: 24
Teeth Offset: 11
Trigger Input: Internal Reluctor
Reluctor Gain: 1
Trigger Edge: Falling
Home Input: Internal Reluctor
Reluctor Gain: 1
Home Edge: Falling


Maybe some of you guys know whats going on????

please help its been 3 weeks in trying to get my car back on the road:(

j9fd3s 04-02-16 10:39 AM

since you get spark when you power it on and off, the ecu is powered, and the output side is likely to be correct. so the trouble is likely to be the CAS, or the wiring to the CAS.

quickest way is to plug in another CAS and spin it by hand, and see if you get RPM. if yes, the old CAS is possibly bad. if no, then the wiring is suspect.

C. Ludwig 04-02-16 04:56 PM

The E6X had issues with the CAS at cranking speeds. Watch trigger since last home reading while cranking. It should be 12 at all times. If it's not, you have a trigger issue. My guess is the battery is a little low and/or the starter wiring a bit on the iffy side and it's cranking slowly. This would cause the ECU to not properly read the CAS. It SHOULD read it, but, like I said, it's a common issue with the E6X. That ECU is sadly a flaming hot turd.

rx770 04-04-16 04:34 AM


Originally Posted by j9fd3s (Post 12046759)
since you get spark when you power it on and off, the ecu is powered, and the output side is likely to be correct. so the trouble is likely to be the CAS, or the wiring to the CAS.

quickest way is to plug in another CAS and spin it by hand, and see if you get RPM. if yes, the old CAS is possibly bad. if no, then the wiring is suspect.




tried pulling out my CAS and spun it by hand while the car is on "ON" position and it read rpm and i was hearing the injectors clicking. tried swapping my leads in the leading (suspected leads) but still doing the same thing spark when I turn my key to on but when it comes down to cranking the car no I so no constant spark

rx770 04-06-16 08:34 PM

anyone? also I noticed that when i start the car i lose connection to the haltech would that be normal??

C. Ludwig 04-07-16 06:48 AM


Originally Posted by rx770 (Post 12048629)
anyone? also I noticed that when i start the car i lose connection to the haltech would that be normal??

Other than what I already posted and you never responded to?

Sounds like you may have the pick wire hooked to a 12v source that drops out with the key in the start position. Easy to do on the S4 and would explain why you lose comms when you crank the engine; the ECU is shutting off. Check that circuit to make sure it has 12v+ with the key in the ON and START positions. There is also an 8v circuit down there in the kick panel area that can throw you a curve if you are just looking for an ignition source with a test light. It will light the light but it won't work to turn the ECUon correctly. So verify your source with a volt meter.


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