Rx7 s4 13bt w/ e6x wont start
So as the title says
My engine is a fresh rebuilt 13b turbo w/ stock coils, 2bar map sensor, 550cc primaries and 1000cc secondaries with haltech e6x and everything else stock. went ahead and hooked up my e6x double and triple checked my wiring but the car wont start at all we tried pull starting it but it wont idle. lost rpm, fuel and battery volt gauges as well Quote Well, I'm at my last straw with my FC Its ran on a Haltech E6X. 1987 Mazda Rx7 TurboII w/ 91 JDM TurboII Swap, Haltech E6X noticed that there's an ignition problem. I'm getting spark in both coils, but the leading coils aren't firing during cranking or running. If I turn the key on, then I get one arc in the leading coils. But none while cranking. I've double and triple checked my wiring and it seems good. No bad connectors and no interference. Quote MAIN: No. Cylinders: 4 Load Type: MAP1BAR (I'm using a GM 1 Bar at the moment) RPM: 8500 Rotary/Cylinder Mode: Rotor ECU Mode: Advanced RPM Type: Ignition RPM mode: 10500 RPM FUEL: Injection Mode: Staging Post Start Temp: 54 Post Start Time: 5 Ign Divide By: 2 Staging Bar #: 12 Barometric Press Lock (mbar): 1013 IGNITION: Trigger Angle: 60 Tooth Offset: 11 [Lock Timing box is unchecked] Lock Timing Angle: -5 Spark Mode: Distributor Spark Output: Constant Charge Spark Edge: Falling Constant Period: 3.8ms TRIGGER: Trigger Angle: 60 Trigger Type: Multitooth Teeth No: 24 Teeth Offset: 11 Trigger Input: Internal Reluctor Reluctor Gain: 1 Trigger Edge: Falling Home Input: Internal Reluctor Reluctor Gain: 1 Home Edge: Falling Maybe some of you guys know whats going on???? please help its been 3 weeks in trying to get my car back on the road:( |
since you get spark when you power it on and off, the ecu is powered, and the output side is likely to be correct. so the trouble is likely to be the CAS, or the wiring to the CAS.
quickest way is to plug in another CAS and spin it by hand, and see if you get RPM. if yes, the old CAS is possibly bad. if no, then the wiring is suspect. |
The E6X had issues with the CAS at cranking speeds. Watch trigger since last home reading while cranking. It should be 12 at all times. If it's not, you have a trigger issue. My guess is the battery is a little low and/or the starter wiring a bit on the iffy side and it's cranking slowly. This would cause the ECU to not properly read the CAS. It SHOULD read it, but, like I said, it's a common issue with the E6X. That ECU is sadly a flaming hot turd.
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 12046759)
since you get spark when you power it on and off, the ecu is powered, and the output side is likely to be correct. so the trouble is likely to be the CAS, or the wiring to the CAS.
quickest way is to plug in another CAS and spin it by hand, and see if you get RPM. if yes, the old CAS is possibly bad. if no, then the wiring is suspect. tried pulling out my CAS and spun it by hand while the car is on "ON" position and it read rpm and i was hearing the injectors clicking. tried swapping my leads in the leading (suspected leads) but still doing the same thing spark when I turn my key to on but when it comes down to cranking the car no I so no constant spark |
anyone? also I noticed that when i start the car i lose connection to the haltech would that be normal??
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Originally Posted by rx770
(Post 12048629)
anyone? also I noticed that when i start the car i lose connection to the haltech would that be normal??
Sounds like you may have the pick wire hooked to a 12v source that drops out with the key in the start position. Easy to do on the S4 and would explain why you lose comms when you crank the engine; the ECU is shutting off. Check that circuit to make sure it has 12v+ with the key in the ON and START positions. There is also an 8v circuit down there in the kick panel area that can throw you a curve if you are just looking for an ignition source with a test light. It will light the light but it won't work to turn the ECUon correctly. So verify your source with a volt meter. |
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