Running f10x
 

Just a question, If I run a f10x will I see the same results as running an safc or emanage??? Will I be able to remove the afm, but still use the stock ecu to run the timing, or will I need to change to a distributor? Thanks you all..

Hmm... good question, lets take it step by step.

1. The haltech has its own sensors, mainly the MAP sensor, and that is better than the AFM.
2. Its far more capable than an SAFC or eManage.
3. You cant get rid of the AFM because the factory ECU uses that for load sensing, that means, the control of the ignition too.

What car are we talking about? an FC? your best option is to run an E8 or E6X, or if you can get your hands on a used E6K so you can control all the engine parameters.

Or is this a modern new car?

no this is an fc, but if I run a distributor, then i shouldnt need an afm. Isnt the f10x a standalone fuel management ecu?? So it shouldnt need the input from the afm, itll just take it from the MAP. I thought the stock ecu used the map sensor for load.

Well if you are going to go with a distributor you wont need the ECU at all, so in actuality its just better to use an E6X and control everything. The ECU on an FC only controls the engine, nothing more.

Obviously it controls the engine only. I dont think you got me. If I could remove the afm while still letting the stock ecu run the ignition, then I rather do that.. But if not, then ill just change to a distributor and thats it..

There is no way to remove the AFM from an FC, unless you buy a used HKS VPC, and to do that id just rather buy a Haltech that runs the whole thing. I'm honestly totally against using a distributor, no matter what the intended use of the car.

im running the F10a on my TII GSL-SE and it works just fine with the distributer. the best thing to do if you can find one is go with the 12a turbo distributer because it has a boost retard in it which will let you run higher boost lvls safely.

Loi

You have an "F10A"? Is that one of the first versions of the f10? because i thought there was NO f10A, just f10 and now f10x.

Honestly, i would prefer to run an E6X or E8 on any turbo car, specially a rotary, cause i want to have total control of the ignition.

I think the difference between the F10 and the F10a has to do with the number of injector drivers and available options. My F10 manual explains the differences, but I don't have it with me right now.

Anyway, I also run an F10 with a distributor on my FC and I think its a great, simple setup. Driveability is actually better than expected and I don't have to worry about the CAS problems that a lot of E6K and (especially) E6X owners have. I may give up some power and/or driveability when not at full throttle, but this setup works great for me. If my car were a track car where extracting every hp mattered, I would go with a "full" standalone (E6K, Wolf3D, Motec, etc.) hands down. But my car is mainly a weekend driver with a few visits to the track each year for fun, so this setup was perfect for me. It is simple, reliable, and fairly inexpensive.

ive heard of a guy using a f10x using a gsl-se distributor. he somehow welded a part of the distributor so it would give him a fixed timing. heard anything like this?

anyone?

Some people weld inside the distributor so there is absolutely no mechanical advance on there.

Also, i said there was no F10A, there actually was, but its a derivative of the F9A's of their days, the A meant it had additional features, im guessing that they had PWMs enabled, which like the F9A, meant the Auxiliar Outputs were enabled in them. Also, to anyone who's curious, the "-8" (F9-8), just means that the ECU has the additional injector drivers enabled.

Sorry for the previous post and the incorrect information.

ah ok.