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-   -   Haltech O2 sensor question (https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/o2-sensor-question-1037448/)

fcrotory Jun 6, 2013 11:59 PM

O2 sensor question
 
Hi guys, im a newb here with Haltech and standalone in generel. Im using a E6K on my fc rx7. After all the reading i just cant seem to find a clear answer.
My question is:
Im wiring up my o2 sensor and want to use only the wideband to run closed loop. So will tapping into the narrowband signal from the wideband controller allow me to completely disregard my stock location single wire o2 sensor? I'd like to just plug it. And with that i should see the same AFRs on my gauge and the Haltech? I know it will show and datalog in voltage but i can covert into A/f.

Or would it be easier to just get a 4 wire and run 2 separate o2 sensors?

Sorry for the newb question.

C. Ludwig Jun 7, 2013 03:20 AM


Originally Posted by fcrotory (Post 11488683)
Im wiring up my o2 sensor and want to use only the wideband to run closed loop. So will tapping into the narrowband signal from the wideband controller allow me to completely disregard my stock location single wire o2 sensor? I'd like to just plug it. And with that i should see the same AFRs on my gauge and the Haltech? I know it will show and datalog in voltage but i can covert into A/f.

Or would it be easier to just get a 4 wire and run 2 separate o2 sensors?

Sorry for the newb question.


Can't use the wideband for closed loop with the E6K. Can only use a narrow band. That said, the narrow band will only target 14.7 for light cruise, so it's not of much benefit. With the E6*, I always just skip any attempt at closed loop operation. With that said, I'd recommend connecting your wideband signal to the input for voltage logging only.

Akagis_white_comet Jun 7, 2013 03:38 AM

Okay, let me get this straight first...
You wish to convert from a Narrowband to a Wideband while retaining the Haltech's existing O2 sensor input wire, correct? OR, are you attempting to use both a Narrowband AND Wideband at the same time which switching back & forth while driving? While the PS1K/PS2K can read from two O2 sensors andalter their behavior accordingly, I am not so sure about the E-series having this capability. Have you read the documentation available from Haltech?
Narrowband is 0-1v, Wideband is 0-5v.

If the first scenario is the one you wish to attempt, I did something very similar with my 20B FC (running a PS2K) in that I put the narrowband O2 sensor on a subharness with ignition-switched power and ground to make the swap plug & play. To swap in the Innovate LC1 Wideband, all I have to do is unplug the Narrowband sensor at the subharness connector and plug in the controller in its place, then make the appropriate change in ECU Manager as I only run one sensor. As long as you tell the ECU what to look for, it will read whatever you tell it to.

As for the gauge, splicing into the O2 sensor input wire near the ECU and stringing it up to the gauge's location seems like a fairly straightforward way to get the job done. Added benefit is that both the ECU & gauge are receiving the exact same information. A patch harness might be a good idea to implement this.

Currently, I see no logical reason to use two O2 sensors outside of comparing pre-cat oxygen content versus post-cat oxygen content in the manner that OBDII cars do. Also, is there something preventing you from removing the original Narrowband sensor to install the Wideband sensor in its place? Seems kind of silly to have two sensors when a single Wideband can deliver the information desired.

My advice is to pull the stock narrowband sensor, put in a wideband and splice the WB Controller's signal output wire into the Haltech's O2 sensor input wire, preferably with a sealed connector at this junction.

fcrotory Jun 7, 2013 04:02 AM


Originally Posted by C. Ludwig (Post 11488782)

Can't use the wideband for closed loop with the E6K. Can only use a narrow band. That said, the narrow band will only target 14.7 for light cruise, so it's not of much benefit. With the E6*, I always just skip any attempt at closed loop operation. With that said, I'd recommend connecting your wideband signal to the input for voltage logging only.

Yes, that's what I was meaning. I wanted to use the narrowband from my wideband. I just wanted to know if it will make it inaccurate at the gauge or the haltech by tapping into it...
So instead ill just tap into the wideband signal and log voltage like you said. Im going to get tuned next month by Mr. Kan. I've never ran a stand alone and wanna make sure i have everything wired properly and not be a hassle for him.

And my current single wire o2 is about 4" from the turbo exhaust flange. And its broke at the top of the sensor lol. Therefore i wanna just retain my wideband sensor thats at the end of my DP. Which is 36-38" away from turbo outlet. The wideband instructions suggested the location and ive always read it will last longer at that spot.

But thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated!

Wolf_ Sep 25, 2013 02:45 PM

Hi, have a simmular question

GOnna get my car tuned with PS1000 next friday, and today my tuner wounderd if I hade gotten a wideband and installed it or not... I was like :scratch: ....

then started to use google to se what I needed, and what I could gather, I need a Wideband sensor and a Controller? do I really need a sensor controller is my big question..?

also I checked the Haltech wiring sheet, and found 02 input and ground and the + to use... but I looked at the BOSCH wideband sensors and they use 5 wires?

I'm a totall noob at this.. anyone wanna straigten out a few ?? for me? =)

C. Ludwig Sep 26, 2013 04:20 AM

Yes, you need a controller. The controller will run the pump cell and heater of the oxygen sensor and then output a 0-5V signal the ECU can read. Pick a sensor/controller combo and connect it's 12V to the Haltech gray/red, ground to the Haltech black/white, and it's signal out to the Haltech shielded gray/orange. Make sure to strip back the outer sheath of the Haltech O2 input to expose the inner orange wire and to insulate the inner braid so that it doesn't short to the signal wire or the chassis.


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