No RPM/spark in Halwin... another
 

So I searched the hell out of the site and have tried a bunch of stuff... here is where I'm at, any help would be great, up against the wall on this one. Firmware issue? Bad haltech?
All other sensors are registering.

So I quadruple checked the following...
Proper connection from CAS to loom:
CAS - Loom
Red - Yellow (trig +)
White - Red (trig -)
Green - Green (Home +)
W/Black - Blue (Home -)

CAS ohms... OK
Wiring from CAS to loom... OK
Wiring from Loom to haltech.... OK
Directly connected the CAS to the haltech... still no rpm
Tried a second CAS... still no response
Tried a third CAS... nothing
Turned up gain on haltech... no rpms
Haltech is directly connected to the batt
Software: Halwinx V1_26
Firmware: Version No 16, Series 11

Trigger Setup: BTDC:10; Teeth:24; Offset: 11
Trigger Input: Internal Reluctor; Gain: 2; Motronic filter: 2
Trigger Edge: Falling
Home Input: Internal Reluctor; Gain: 2; Motronic: 2
Home Edge: Falling

Does the software stay connected while cranking?

Take the CAS out and spin it by hand. Do you get an RPM reading?

It stays connected when I try to crank the engine over and when I spin the CAS by hand there is no rpm reading and it stays connected. If I let it sit there for a little while it looks like it is reconnecting but not while cranking.

When I turn it by hand I tried to turn up the gain and still nothing.

Open trigger diagnostics page and see what your trigger count at last home is.

Home Count: 0
Trigger Count: 0
Trigger before last home count: 0

Yeah so now you know its a trigger problem.
Try turning your trigger gains to 0 and same with the filter.

Also, do a continuity test between the CAS and the connector at the ECU and check to see if one or both of the trigger + wires is shorted to ground.

Neither are shorted to ground. Also, the grounds are grounded properly.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Suggestions please? I want to get this beast running again.

Is there anyway to test the ECU itself? Like connect it to something that would give it a pulse (failsafe?)

we told you what the problem is. its not reading rpm. it has to read rpms for it to even do anything. make sure the wireing you have is 100%. check it 200 times if you need to.

I already knew it wasn't reading the RPM's that's what the post was about... The wiring has been checked and rechecked many times, like I stated. I am looking at other possible problems that can be ruled out, like the CAS isn't sending a strong enough pulse or that there may be a fault in the ECU itself.

if thats the case... test the cas. if it works, then you are golden.

try regapping the cas.

The Ohms are okay for the CAS per the FSM. Is there a DIY for regaping?

Get a oscilloscope and you will see if there is a problem with the signal output from the CAS

its easy. unscrew each sensor, and use a sheet of paper as a stop gap. or the thinnest gauge you can find and use that. then squeese the gauge or paper between the sensor and the wheel tooth and tighten up the screw. vualla!! regapped.

i had to do this on my fc a year back and the idle i got a bit better as the signal is a bit more crisp i think, who knows. it was with a stock FC.

wait wait wait. we need to know what haltech you are using.

also... when you say you see no rpm, does this mean you also see no activity from the other sensory inputs as well? can you see the correct temp for coolant and air?

does your fuel pump prime?

these are the basics to know that your haltech is at least turning on.

E6X, all other sensors are registering (all accurate), the fuel pump is priming also.

turn the car to on, yank out the cas, and spin it by hand. do you get an rpm reading in the haltech? yes?

then you may not be getting power to the haltech when you are cranking the engine over.

Actually, you should be able to tell if the ECU is powering down during cranking by watching the "ecu connected" tab in the lower left part of the screen. If the ECU loses connection while cranking then the power to the box is probably dropping out while cranking. That would indicate improper wiring of the ignition trigger wire.

Alternately, the E6X is very finicky about it's trigger signal input. I've had cars refuse to register if the battery is low and the cranking speed is at all slow. Could be lots of issues with installation and/or setup.

No rpm by hand, no reconnecting while cranking.

Is there a fail safe way to make the E6X register a signal, like from an artificial pulse?

very very interesting.

Id say more like very very frustrating. :)

Any cure to this problem? my car is down at mazdatrix getting a ps1000 and they are having the same problem.

and you cant see the obvious error here????
why have you hooked the trigger (-) to the 12v bus??? the whites in the CAS tie together and go to the BLUE haltech wire

Nothing yet, PM me if you find a solution. I was thinking of sending the Haltech out to have someone swap it into a working car and see if it is a ECu issue.

Your wiring diagram refers to an E8, this is an E6x, the wiring is correct.
http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm

try it, i am pretty sure i am right
cause thats exactly what i have done on a previous E6K ( on a 13bt ) and also for a toyota 1JZ on an E6S ( which have notoriously difficult Vr )
and also have on my current e8 setup

the 12V has no place in Vr systems !
( check out also the sprint 500 notes ! )

what do you have to lose????
one snip, one solder at the CAS, join the CAS whites to the haltech blue wire, bingo, crank signal

i am having the same exact problem, no rpm or any trigger or home counts at all

should add some specifics sorry, also e6x, manly stock setup, have all trigger settings correct will not pick any signal with any combination of gain and filters

i did this way back had the same problem. double check hitmans wiring diagrams with another and i bet you find a difference in the cas wiring diagram

Your CAS wiring is correct for the E6X. The E series has a different pinout for the trigger loom than the E8. The E8 is different than the E11v2.

not trying to ignore any advice, but i didnt use hitmans's, mine came with a cut harness that was very short so i extended all the wires and labled them per the haltech diagram on there website, then i used bdc's notes, ill double check the wiring again tomorrow when i get the chance to and compare with hitmans