Injector pulse for on boost
 

I just got my car back and I'm breaking in the motor. I'm running ign/by 1 I've cleaned up all the bottom end from bar 12 down. I'm avoiding boost for the next 500Km but I accidentaly went on boost this morning while logging. At about 3000RPM bar 13 is 1.456. It seemed to lean right out. I was wondering what everyone else is running for bar 13 at that RPM so I see how far off I am.

My car is 93 FD 1600cc secondaries 550cc primaries. Street ported, 3mm seals and a GR-63 turbo.

Raven

For a 550/1600 injector combo, bar 13's hight is around 3-3.5ms.

I assume you are running ign/by 2 instead of 1. So your fuel should be about 60% higher than mine. So it is pretty close. I'll just richen it up a fair amount and work my way back down.

Anyone else want to share some values..

Raven

I'm interested in what everyone has to say regarding ign div by settings.

According to the manual the ignition divide by is:

My take on it is that its the number of times the ECU fires the injectors per crank revolution.

yes, I've read the manual as I imagine all of us have. I was hoping for something a bit more useful, along the lines of 1 vs 2 on rotary applications. Nobody has made a good case for using 1 over 2 or vice versa on a 13b that I have seen. Yet most the maps I see are using 2 for 13b's, even though the manual suggests using 1 on rotary applications.

I've read a bit about it from the yahoo haltech forum. Basically you can run either on a rotary both should run fine but if you use 2, you get better granularity of the fuel, so you can make finer adjustments. So for higher boost and larger injector applications 2 is usually better.

I plan on switching to 2 when my motor is broken in.

Raven

I've tried both, and the only difference I've noticed is that if I switch from Ign/by 1 to Ign/by 2, I can't use the same fuel maps. They need to be adjusted to get the right A/F mixtures and allow the engine to run smoothly.

Other then that, throttle response seems the same and the engine will easily reach redline in either mode so long as the ignition advance is set to adjust according to engine speed.

Yes pengarufoo,

The manual does say 1 for rotaries, but i've always used and advised 2, i get pretty good fuel delivery at 2, i must admit i havent used 1, i will try it on a car im working on now and will PM you the results.

Later,

Wow, looks like you will be ready for the Ottawa Meet!!! :bigthumb:

3.32ms @ bar 13 IGN/2

That is the hope I haven't missed an Ottawa cruise yet. Everything is working out pretty well so far. The lower range is smoother then I've ever had it. I'm still blowing a lot of smoke though. I've got to see if I can fix that at all. Perhaps it's too much oil.

Raven

do rotarys smoke some if they are rich, overfuelled, and seem like its oil. blueish. RON

Rotaries, like most engines, have several forms of smoking, blue smoke, white smoke, black smoke, each with its own cause and consequences.

Usually when they are rich, smoke is black, blue is a little more oil than normal, white (like smoke machine white) is when a water seal or jacket has failed, a little white smoke when cold and nothing when hot is the oil seals that are bad, and finally a little smoke when you decelerate when hot, usually is the turbo that is bad.

That's all i can think off.