ignition breakup... haltech RE
 

Got my haltech re all wired up and starts & fires good. when its cold i rev it up and the car cuts out, tach bounces/drops. i played with the fuel but it didnt seem to help... pretty much sounds like ignition breakup due to the tach bouncing. as the car warms up it seems to run better and it almost goes away. does anybody have a good working map where i can atleast make sure i dont have a setting off or maybe someone that can point me in the right direction on what to do...maybe an initializing setting that i overlooked.

using aem smart coils
haltech sprint re
crank trigger kit
720/1600 injectors
E85

Anybody?

Log trigger at last home and make it repeat the issue. Sounds more like a trigger issue with the tach bouncing.

cracked an iron because of this...... guess ill have to fix this first before i try anything.... :mad::mad::mad::wallbash:

found and fixed the issue. now i need to swap out the rear iron and im ready to tune!

sounds similar to what just happened to me...what would cause this issue

Was on the phone with haltech for a while. Our setups have more interference than the typical car setup so what needs to be done is to first bump up the filter on the trigger main page to 2 or 3 whichever lowest figure eliminates it first. According to haltech U do that first before u mess with the threshold map. If it don't fix it or doesn't quite get rid of the cut out I bumped down the trigger threshold up top (3-5k rpm) to 1.75 & 2.0. This fixed it

Was this just on free rev? or on accell? I had this issue while driving, the tach would bounce when starting to get on it while still slightly cold, noticed no changes in a/f , still not really sure whats going on, but sounds really simiar. As the car got hot the issues seamed to go away. I ended up cracking my front plate..
My trigger right now is set at no filter, could this be an issue? The harness shouldnt have any problems it was provided by ludwig, still new.
thanks
james

it was the same free rev or under load. the base settings are always the same, no filter and trigger threshold (cant remember the exact numbers on threshold). def sounds like u had the exact issue. try bumping up the filter one at a time, if 3 doesnt do it play with the threshold in the areas that are cutting out by lowering the figures. 5k setting covers from 5k onto redline.

just for your guys info about routing the crank trigger wiring... they told me to route the trigger shielded cable away from the coils as much as possible. i asked haltech about routing it closer to the alternator since theres no other route to the crank trigger sensor because i was unsure about interference. they said the alternator would cause less interference than the coils would.

Thanks alot man My harness isn't ran near my coils. Regardless should a filter always be set up? Would this trigger issue happen only on accel? I had no issues free revving the motor. Would it be the tuners responsibility to set this up? He waited for the engine to be fully warmed up prior to tuning. Is it possible he just didn't encounter the problem due to the car being fully warm? If tunning a vehicle would it be recommend to cool the car down to check all Is well? I really think this is my issue but there's no way to know till I rebuild my motor.. This time I will have s5 plates and oversized bolts so hopefully I can try duplicating the condition with out breaking another plate in order to fix it.
Ludwig if you could take a look at my map and let me know what u think I'd greatly appreciate it, he had originally started with your base map. I can email the file to you if you want just give me your email address
Thanks
James

I do not use a filter. I always use the default trigger threshold. I've never had a trigger issue with a Platinum ECU. Fuel tuning can easily present itself as a trigger issue. You need to log trigger before last home when the issue is happening to see if you do have a trigger issue or something else.

Well...didn't fix it. Gona get back on the phone with haltech and see what they say. Gona log the trigger like u said and see what it does .

How can fuel tuning present itself as a trigger issue?

Engine misfire.

im having the same issue with my e6k. i did the fuel tuning but it still had the issue.

with a K would suggest going with a reluctor adapter
.. things sometimes are just too fiddly.. the earlier the haltech,, the messier the filter and gain setup becomes and it becomes unwieldy

on noisy systems sometimes it pays to run your own shielded microphone cable the long way well away from alt and coils and splice this in at the ecu ( splice the shield to earth at the ecu )
but would suggest also a change to B9/10 REG plugs and use some suppressed leads

bumbstart can you explain what you mean ? and or where can i get a relocatable adapter

haltech ra10 is a two channel reluctor adapter.. for conditioning the reluctor signal into a TTL or hall effect ( square wave ) form signal.
. and thus set the ecu to square wave input ( hall effect setting ) and ignore the internal reluctors and software

MSD 8509 ( need 2 ) will also do a similar job but the RA10 still has internal dip switches which are handy for extreme setups

from e6H up you have internal reluctor adapter.,. H is dip switched .. by K its in the software

it is fiddly .. and in the end in some applications its just WAY easier to just add the reluctor adapter instead and it works out of box seems more powerful and lots less trouble

there is RA8 and other numbers .. these are older versions and may only be one channel ( you need 2 )

ok thanx

I need some more details on this msd and ra10 signal stabilizers I'm trying understand why need two but not one msd , and were can I get ra10?

Please delete.

Why

Please delete my post. :rolleyes:

Well my problem was nowhere near what i thought it was. the problem was actually spark blowout. the weird thing is that i ran 20 psi on the same turbo nothing changed but went with ign-1a coils. then the misfire/cutout started. after playing with all kinds of settings and breaking 3 irons i finally tried ngk racing gappable plugs 11.5 heatrange and set them to .20 gap, issue completely went away.

what does this say? to me it says that if the stock coils never blew out spark with the stock plugs but with the aem coils it did? that says the stock coils are better?