How to tune Haltech for boost?
 

Hi my name is John and I have a dune buggy or sand rail with a 2nd gen series 4 13b with a large singe turbo. 67mm .70 ar compressor with anti surge and .69 ar on center P trim hotside .I used to have a Electromotive Tec 2 and have replaced it with a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. The motor has been just been rebuilt and I have just converted it to run on E85 ethanol. Fuel system has been upgraded to a A1000 pump all -10an lines all the way to the regulator and a -8 return line. It has 1200cc primary's and 2350cc secondary's. It has the stock CAS and LS1 coils. Its all wired, a bit of a challenge but fun. Got the base map from the CD and have the settings correct. I have got the car to start and run well with it parked but when i go to drive it and let the clutch out it stalls. I know this is because I don't have the base fuel table dialed in when the KPA shifts for when there is a load on the car.

My question might sound dumb but how should the graph look? All RPMs the graph goes from low on the left to high at at a little past 0 KPA and then drops off and starts to gradually go back up again toward 100 and 200KPA.

I have tuned a 1000+HP Big Block Chevy on a FAST and Run of the mill 500HP 383 Small Block on ACCEL DFI so familiar with tuning with NA and Nitrous but am very nervous tuning with turbo.

I have already popped a front housing on this motor with the Electromotive TEC 2 due to detonation I think. Ran great on race gas 110 VP with 500cc pri and 1680cc sec. I thought I either had too much advance when the turbo hit boost, or my dial a boost was set too high wasn't sure. Anyhow motor was rebuilt and same tune was on it had a hell of a time starting the car ended up having to tow it behind another car and dump the clutch. Un hooked the strap stepped on it to clean it out since it seemed loaded up to clean it out sounded good pulled good. Got to the end of the street and oil was spraying everywhere! Popped the rear housing this time. In 100 yards in first gear in 45 seconds! Got to be some record to that! So this is why I am very nervous and why I have the new Haltech Platinum Sport ECU. The E85 is because I cant afford to run it on VP110 anymore its just to expensive at 8 or 9 bucks a gallon. Also the lead really kills spark plugs and O2 sensors quick. I found out my old MAP sensor was bad and have replaced all of the sensors except the TPS sensor. Maybe that is why I popped 2 housings. Who knows.

Any advice on how to tune safely for drive ability? I have a LM2 wide band connected to read AFR. What AFR should I be after for E85?

Have the Prime Pulse, Post Start, Cool Temp set good. I am not familiar with Injection firing angle, Injection angle split, and staging bar angle. So far seems like I way more fuel then necessary as I am really low on pulse width ms so far. I have the boost set to 9lbs for safety till I get closer.

Any help or advice would be awesome!

Is this a general tuning question or are you asking about using the Haltech's boost control capability?

I guess this is more a general question of a few I guess. The Haltech has everything in graph form instead of #s in cells. I am getting used to that. But should the fuel build up fuel and drop off so steep then build up again? doesn't seem right. I know this was a base map. Should i just ignore this and completely change this?

Also what do the Injection Firing angle, Injection angle split and Staging bar injection do? How should these tables adjusted? These seem to be a haltech specific thing if I am not mistaken.

1) Put down the laptop.
2) Read the Haltech manual.
3) Read a book on general engine management tuning.
4) If you do all that; come back with your questions.

The fuel map builds up and then drops off because that is the point your secondary injectors start to fire. before that point the map is running on just your primaries which demands more until those much larger secondary injectors kick in.

From the sound of your issues it sounds like your timing is way to far advanced...

I have the FFE trigger and it ended up being 97*
I have the rx8 style trigger. hall effect.

you need to first lock your timing on the haltech get a timing light and check to make sure its zeroed out then once you have it set up start setting your fuel map up....depending on your setup turbo/porting injectors etc. with 1000cc injectors you should be around 3.0-4.0 % fuel on your base map at -1 - 0.0 vacuum and at around 1500rpm as a high idle start point you should have about 1.68% give or take for air flow due to porting or whatever your setup is..... 23*-28* (as a starting point) ignition advance at idle and you may need to bump your injector prime time to get it started at first.....

anyways i understand your frustration but sometimes your so close and little things can have such big effects.