haltech questions
 

ok I finally got my engine in my white FC running with my sprint re. Its running prity good Its idling good and all that I just have a few little things I need help with. first off If I have my trailing coil pack plugged in my timing jumps around a lot and makes the engine run shity. I'm using the stock coil packs I just relocated them under the dash. I think I'm getting some electrical noise off the coils or something causing the ignition out puts to have a fit. but when I unplug the trailing coil pack and run the engine with just the leading coil pack the timing only jumps around a little bit below 1000rpms.

Do you have spark mode set to distributor? How do you have the trailing coil wired?

I have it set to distributer. the coils are wired up basically the same way they are stock they get 12v from a fuse block, the ign out puts from the ecu and they ground through the case. I will try and get some pics of how I have them wired up if that will help.

I meant how is it wired specifically, what output to what pin on the coils. Wondering if you have the outputs swapped on the coil.

I doubt it but I can double check tomorrow. I wired them up how the quick start guide said to.

Well, you've done something wrong or it would be working properly. ;)

well Im running it right now on just the leading coils and it seems to be doing what it should like that. will it hurt anything if I don't run the leading coils? and another thing that is giving me problems is the wideband I must not be calibrating it right or something because the engine won't run any leaner then 12.5 afrs and it likes to idle around 11.5. and the ecu isn't reading right ether. the gauge reads about 21.9 with the engine off and the ecu reads around 10.0. its an innovate LC1 and I calibrated it to what it says it should be in the innovate lc1 papers that came with it. could it be that my engine just likes to idle really rich? its a large street ported 13b and Im running a prity rich premix mixture in the gas.

Did you calibrated the wideband on the ECU itself?

yes I did. I think the gauge isn't that far off though. I got it to idle around the high 13s to day. but anywhere in the 14s it doesn't like very much. I just want to at least make sure my wideband is reading right before I start road tuning this thing. and I found out the timing only starts to jump around when my tps starts to read 0 or around zero it doesn't matter what RPM its at. I don't know if it will do that with the trailing coil plugged in or not though. for the most part its running good though. Ive just been working with the base maps provided on the soft ware. Im running the s5 map which im assuming is the stock s5 t2 timing and fuel map?

It won't lean idle because the ignition isn't working correctly. My advice is to get it to someone that knows what they're doing before you break the engine. Isn't Speed1 pretty close?

yea but JK tuning is right in town like 10min away from my house I would take it there first. the ignition isn't fucking up any more its just running on the leading coils at the moment. would that be why it doesn't want to lean idle?

well my trailing timing seems to have fixed it self some how so im going to try hooking up the trailing coils 2maro and see if it work right and if it makes my engine run better. it would be awsom if it did and I could idle the engine leaner.

well I plugged in the trailing coils and ran the engine to day and they are working right. it seemed to run the engine a little better. Im having a bitch of a time tuning the fuel though coz my alternator isn't working right at the moment and voltage starts to drop after a wile. and my fuel pressure starts to drop like 5-10 psi after awhile and I think that might be why. so I have to keep making changes to the map to keep the engine running right or at all some times. If anyone has a good base map I could try that would be very helpful. im going to work on making my alternator work right tomorrow hopefully. then hopefully tuning my engine should be a lot easier. and I won't kill my battery all the time.

could the reason my car won't idle around 14.7 be because one of my rotors isn't getting enough fuel? because I have a pace setter header and the wide band only goes in one tube. and she was running good but yesterday I went to start her up and she barley started and ran like shit and afrs where around 12.5 like they usually are. but she wouldn't stay running unless I kept my foot on then gas. could one of my injectors be clogged?

If your alternator is crapping out then it is adjusting Everything.
FIX that first.
If you are compensating the fuel map because of the voltage variation you will never get it to idle.

I fixed the alternator awhile ago. and I had it running great idling around 12.5-13.0. she would fire right up after about 5 seconds of cranking on a cold start and idle smoothly all the way up to operating temp. but every now and then she just barely fires up and runs like shit. and now that's all she does all I can think of is clogged injectors coz the tune hasn't changed, fuel pressure hasn't changed at all and now she just runs like shit, and doesn't want to stay idling . and I haven't been running a fuel filter like I should be and there is some shit at the bottom of my gas tank. any ideas?

run a fuel filter.

Seriously, you seem to be over your head a bit, and though you probably don't want to spend the money to get it tuned, you could cost yourself more in the long run if you cause an engine issue. If anything, have someone set it up properly to give you a solid base to fall back to, then tune to your hearts content.

money is not the issue. I want to tune it my self because I love tuning, and I want to learn how to do it and do it right. I did just get a fuel filter, and my new fuel injectors should be here tomorrow. If I clean all the shit out of the tank put fresh fuel in it and put these new fuel injectors on and that doesn't solve the problem then I have no fucking idea and Im just going to trailer it to JK tuning and let John Kerr figure it out!

sounds like your rich afrs are flooding your engine, pull your spark plugs out and turn off the injectors in the computer and turn it over a few times, throw your plugs back in after cleaning them with brake clean and then fire it up see if anything has changed.

I took it to get tuned. apparently my wideband wasn't reading right so I was tuning it to lean. and I wasn't giving it enough fuel during cranking. shes tuned up to 4000rpm for the brake in. made 83whp at 4000rpm all moter lol.