Haltech noStart
 

Tried to get the car running today with a local rotary fella......I'm having issues getting my e6k S4 running......the car has spark, fuel, and 120+psi......the haltech is wired correctly....but when it cranks over it acts like it WAY out of time.....We restabed the CAS like 20 times. It fires way before tdc..it fights the starter... makin me think its way too advanced.....but according to the timing light on the RB crank pulley it's right on......maybe someone has any Ideas I got the haltech used.....the harness is kinda hacked up.....I'm thinking there may be a break in the wiring somewhere or the haltech maybe bad.....on the engine data page everything is good...gettin Inj dcycle,rpm,timing .......

so if anyone has any info lemme know please!!!!

Did you zero the timing?

James

Here's how the day went down. Nick told me before I got there the car was getting fuel and spark but wouldn't fire. First thing I did was went over the settings (which were all correct) and then tried to zero the timing. Let me preface this by saying that I've installed 4 Ks and all of them went together using the Hitman settings without any fuss and only required a slight tweak of the CAS to get the timing zeroed. This car was about 20* out initially. So we restabbed the CAS and it was still 20* advanced. Nick had stabbed the CAS right the first time. At this point we played with tooth offset. The Haltech won't let us feed in enough tooth offset (would require at least 13) to get the timing close. So we went back and jumped a tooth on the CAS to get the timing zeroed according to the RB pulley. And to eliminate any questions we zeroed the timing at TDC according to the correct mark on the RB pulley. So with the timing zeroed according to the RB pulley we tried to start it and that is when the backfiring and kicking back on the starter started. Obviously the timing is way off. We disconnected the trailing coil thinking maybe it was firing wildly out of time and that made no difference. We double checked the trigger lead and everything is wired correctly. We thought maybe the RB pulley was marked wrong (I have personally received such a pulley) so we found TDC and the pulley is marked correctly. We datalogged while cranking and there are no jumps of the trigger signal to idicate a serious problem there. The only thing odd to me there was that the indicated cranking RPM was 120. We kept the battery fresh so the RPM should of been higher. Even with the plugs removed for a compression check the cranking RPM registered at 180. We tried two different CASs with no change. At this point the only thing I can think of is a problem within either the harness of the ECU itself. Nick is going to remove the harness and we'll go over it with a fine tooth comb and clean it up. The previous owner was a level 12 hack and it's pretty ugly. If that checks out we'll bum another K to swap. After all of that does anyone have some knowledge to drop? :D

what are your ignition and trigger settings.
what series? stock ignition?

sort of had the same thing happen to me....spark and fuel good to go. Turns out the plugs were fouled. I put in a new set and it fired up just fine.

James

Reset the settings to something else and then reset them back.
Sometimes even though your settings are correct, the Haltech will do weird things.
Changing the settings and then changing them back seems to get the damn thing to work correctly...


-Ted

Trigger: Input Int. Reluctor
Trigger Gain: 0 - 4
Home: Input Int. Reluctor
Home Gain: 0 - 4
Trigger Angle: 65
Trigger Type: Multitooth
Number of Teeth: 24
Tooth Offset: 11
Spark Mode: Distributor
Engine Type: Rotary
Output Type: Constant Charge
Coil Charge Time: 4.6 ms
Output Edge: Falling

Here are the settings. Again we had to jump a tooth on the CAS to get it to zero with these settings. With the CAS stabbed correctly it read ~20* advanced. ReTed I tried your suggestion yesterday. Changed the trigger type reset the ECU and then changed it back. Didn't change a thing. We're also getting good spark so the plugs aren't fouled. They're just not firing when they should. Even though the timing is zeroed out. Which doesn't make sense. And it doesn't make sense that we'd have to jump a tooth on the CAS to get the timing zeroed. None of it makes sense... :)

your settings look ok

if your ignition events are happening on time it would lead me to beleve you have a fuel problem.

as for the RB main pully. i took mine off as it was marked wrong from RacingBeat, that thing caused so many problems. you can still make lots of power with the stocker. just for drill you may want to change pullies and see if the marks are where there suppose to be.
when cranking what are your pulse widths

thanks Chris for coming over to help......and also thank you for the VERY thorough discription.... your a heck of a guy to help with this beast......

Chris thank you.....when you get the new harness.. we'll give that a wirl.. lets just hope its not a haltech..... ;)

thanks again..

You guys are not doing something funny like running a CDI (i.e. MSD) box or something weird like that, right?


-Ted

What I did to get timing dead on was use the trigger angle to electronically move the CAS.

Basically, I remove all spark plugs and disable the injectors VIA the E6K. Then I clip and ground L1 plug and put a timing light on it. This will allow you to do a real time check on where your timing is. Then you can add or subtract from the trigger angle to move the timing mark to where it is needed (with timing lock on).

Rat

ReTed - No CDI box

J-Rat - Amazingly enough, just what you describe is the way we were playing with the settings. Again, we're ~20* out. You can't turn the trigger angle down enough (45*?) to get the timing to zero.

Jumping the cas a tooth wont get you there?

Just a shot in the dark here, do you have the trigger wires correctly connected up?

Just a thought

Do you guys even read what is written before you type?

See above post.

I seriously apologize for getting short but I've taken the time to be as descriptive as possible.

I read it, but the Trigger Angle will allow you quite a bit of leeway when changing the timing signal. Something just seems a bit off..

Claudio RX-7 I got the haltech from you....back in the day.....but I haven't had time to install it due to being in iraq...you know the one you had on the supra.....with the hacked up harness....did you ever have any problems with it...?

Did anything ever come of this?
I'm seeing the same thing with my E8/FC install.
I have one other (possibly unrelated) problem with only seeing 0 to 2 PSI of vacuum.
For that problem, I've already replaced all gaskets/hoses so the only culprit for a vac leak is the BAC valve.

Regardless, I am certain that I have the IGN wires correct(per the manual and everyone here). I have have the CAS wired with both VE- to GND and the triggers to their corresponding wires. The RPM signal is pretty stable. Still, I had to change the trigger angle to 48 to get it close to the mark. The rest of my ignition settings are right. The car runs like hell.

I was just hoping some resolution came of this thread that would help me.