Haltech Fuse block: Fuel pump fuse blows or melts!!!
 

Busted my ass this weekend getting the seven road worthy.

Cars still in it baby steps, but it was driving pretty well when I put it away for the winter.

fixed the fuel cell problem, and left to bring it to my new house, about 1hr 15m away

about 15mn into the trip, i lose fuel pressure and it ends up being a blown fuel pump fuse on the haltech.

except that the fuse and the fuse slot is all melted and the fuse baked brittle.

I managed to dig most of the original fuse out of there, and made it useable.

luckily, I had about (6) 20 amp fues. But they all blew within 10 minutes. I got to a gas station and bought a couple fuse packs.

I tried a 25amp and managed to make it work by swaping two fuses back and forth before they blew.

every 5-10 minutes for over an hour, luckily Its in the glove box.

the 25amp fuses I was swaping got so hot that the plastic deformed, but they did not blow.

the wires going to the fuse block were warm, but the block was fucking hot,

could it be the block, I have traced most of the wire, and all grommets and connections are good.

connections are as follows.

Bat+ -to- aeromotive pump -to- haltech -to- ground

Ok, ive seen this happen a few times, one of the reasons is that your fuel pump draws too many amps and the wiring isnt thick enough, the other reason is that your ground might be a little loose. Another option is that the haltech supplied relay isnt really a proper relay for a fuel pump, specially aftermarket powerful ones.

Try finding a more powerful relay to connect at the fuel pump side, leaving the original haltech one and just getting a direct power lines from the battery and try that, also put in thicker gauge wire.

What ECU is this, what fuel pump do you have?

Haltech E6k, Aeromotive A700hp fuel pump/

I drove the car for a month last year with the same setup and no problems.

A blown fuse is one thing, but a melted one and melted block is another

the haltech wiring seams more than adequate.

Im thinking one of the small screwdrivers I keep in my glove box might have shorted/fucked it somehow.

i had a simler probblem , it turned out that the unused o2 wire touched the body of the car every now and again . once i put tape over the end of the wire its never done it since .

Can you get a DMM or ammeter to measure current through the circuit???

The pump might be failing; when pump (impellers) start to seize, this jacks up the current a LOT.
I've heard Aeromotive fuel pumps don't like to be run at long lengths at a time - i.e. street use.
Aeromotive sells a voltage "dropping" box to run their fuel pumps at lower voltage so you can run them on the street.


-Ted

maybe thats the problem, when I got closer to my house, I started loosing fuel pressure and Im about 95% sure that it was due to the fuel pump being clogged. It would die, I would have to go and tap on the fuel filter to loosen things up.

I think that I may be running carburator style filters, and need to change them. Although they dont say anything about being FI or carb specific

I removed and replaced the foam in the tank, and probably got a bunch of the foam in the filter.

The pump has about 20hrs on it tops, for $300 I hope its not going out.


But still, it seams weird that just the block got really hot.

The filters are a very important part of the equation, if you have the improper filters this affects performance, both on the pump and the fuel system. And since the Aeromotive pump moves so much fuel you need the proper filters. When ever the pump encounters resistance it will draw more power.

this is most likely the problem, Ill get a chance to pull them apart soon

Im going to switch to this filter before the pump. and delete the filter after it.

BG fuel filter

also, where can I get a replacement fuse block, mine is somewhat damaged.

Yeah, right after I hit the submit button, I realized I totally forgot about the filters and resistance to flow.
Increased resistance to fuel flow increases the work the fuel pump does, and that will shoot up current.
At least cleaning the filters is a relatively "cheap" fix. :)

Good luck!



-Ted

Hmm... actually aeromotive allways suggests you use 2 filters, one before and one after the pump for optimum results.

But still brand new filters are always a plus, and if your tank is dirty might as well cleant it up properly.

Have a look at this link.

they recommend a 100 before and 10 after,

the BG is a 60 micron, so I think its a fair tradeoff for having one filter. It is also very long with a lot of filtering area

I see I'm not the only one having problems with their car this spring! :)

Having the 100 micron filter before the pump is used to keep the nuts and bolts out of the pump, the 10 micron after the pump is used to filter the fuel so it won't clog the injectors over time. By just putting a 60 micron filter after you pump you run the risk of wrecking your pump due to contamination and clogging your injectors (then popping a engine). 60 micron filtration is for carburated engines that eat larger particles for lunch :)

I think ill just have to wait and go with the suggested aeromotive filters.

less worries, I had to move it today, and it would barely make 20lbs. but now my tools are in my garage, so I can start working on it.

Bought a house? Congrats!

thanks, been doing nothing but paint and woodwork the past two weeks, Im exhausted.

My grandmother left me some money to invest when she died, and a house seam like the ticket. Its a 4 bedroom and im renting rooms to 3 of my friends from college. And its only about 3/4 mile from campus.

Im learning a ton about realestate, great way to make money.

I think the Aeromotive filters are a rip.
Try and check out the Earl's ones - they should be like HALF price!


-Ted

Homes are the best/safest investment you can make these days. I'm glad I got in a few years ago just when the prices started to skyrocket around here. With 3 roommates you're probably paying the mortgage and still have a little left over, I wish I could tolerate people better or I'd do the same thing.

Does Earls make comparable filters to the Aeromotive ones? The only one I've seen that Earls makes is a small screen type.

yeh, I have the Earls small screen type and then the sintered bronze type. Before and after respectivly.

There is minimal filtering area on either one. I was super suprised at the screen one.
very small screen about the size of a nickel, no wonder it completely clogged.

My fuel pump fuse melted in the housing as well. The fuse did not blow, it just melted the plastic so it was at a 30 degree angle.

The pump draws 12 amps, the fuse is 20, and I have to assume the wiring is capable of 20.

This was an E11 harness

weird