Haltech Elite Install Questions
 

I have a Haltech Elite 1000 ready to drop in my GSL-SE with an S5 NA block. I'm figuring out wiring and have a few questions.

1. Haltech advertised 12 outputs but it appears the Elite 1000 only has 6 Digital Pulsed Outputs (DPOs) plus 4 for the stepper which I'll use for the OMP. Am I missing something? Where are the other two?
2. How do I hook up an output to the S3 (1984) tach? I found posts for FCs but not FBs
3. Is there any reason to keep using an ACV and/or Air Pump with the Haltech? The car has no cat and getting rid of the two ACV solenoids frees up outputs I need
4. Where can I get a knock sensor that is compatible with this ECM?
5. Do I need the Pressure Regulator Control solenoid? From what I read, it helps with hot starts: "Shuts vacuum passage between dynamic chamber and pressure regulator
- only during hot condition". Is it possible to work around needing this in the tune?

I plan to run outputs to the OMP (stepper control), 6port solenoid, VDI solenoid, BACV, and tach. If need to use the ACV solenoids and this ECM actually only supports 6 outputs instead of 12, I am 1 output short

1. you can assign the unused fuel and spark injector outputs to be general outputs.
2. what ignition are you running? the stock setup just triggers off of the coil like a normal old timey car
3. you need the air pump for the 6 ports, but you can ditch the ACV
4. not sure, you can probably use a stock FC/FD one
5. nope! you can program it into the map, you can also remove the thermowax assembly, as that can be ecu controlled too

I forgot to mention my ignition setup - 4x AEM smart coils to replace the old GSLSE distributor and igniters. So I’ll be using all 4 ignition outputs and also all 4 injector outputs (4x RX8 450cc).

So I won’t have any spare outputs from those. I would think haltech wouldn’t advertise 12 outputs including the injection and ignition, since those are listed separately, but who knows. Without the ACV it looks like I can drop two more solenoids, and the FPR solenoid also, so I have enough outputs. I’ll basically just keep the VDI and 6 port solenoids triggered based on RPM and hook up the BACV also. Simple enough!

1 - Haltech advertising is confusing. They consider the fuel and injection outputs along with the 4 DPO, for a total of 12.
2 - The FB tach is driven off one of the coils. Not sure off the top of my head what circuit it is. But there’s a wire near where the OE coils were. I’m sure if you do a search, you can find the info.
3 - Ditch everything except the BAC. Idle control is just too handy to get rid of.
4 - We sell one. I recommend a broad band Bosch or similar v trying to reuse one of the OE Mazda sensors.
5 - I don’t normally use the PRC. No real need for it.

If you’re going to keep the engine NA, you could just run a pair of 1000cc injectors. That would free up a couple outputs and there would be no need to fool with stages injection.

Thanks Chris!

Without the ACV I should be good on the number of outputs. I just couldn’t drive all 5 of the factory solenoids but it looks like I don’t need to.

I just found the “broadband knock sensor” on your site. I’ll add that to my list. I’m guessing you already know I’m the guy who bought this stuff from you last month. I’ll have a couple more connectors to order too. Wiring harness came in 2 days ago!

About the injectors, I do have a freshly cleaned set of GSLSE 680cc injectors, not sure if those alone are sufficient for making more than the GSLSEs 135hp or if two stages would work better. I’d rather not buy yet another set if I can help it.

The FB Tach from the factory is driven by a wire on the trailing coil. I read about hooking the haltechs DPO1 directly up to the cluster on an FC including the settings to make it work correctly, I just haven’t found the settings for an FB. I suppose I could splice the same wire into one of the trigger wires for a new AEM coil?

Thanks again and merry christmas

For the injectors, run what you have. No sense in spending a bunch of money.

You’ll need to use DPO1 to drive the tach. Set it to 12v pull up. FC and FD are 2 pulse. Not sure what FB is. It’ll be 2 or 4. Set it to what works.

Let me know if you need help with anything. You bought it, I support it. 😉

I'm thinking through my inputs and outputs, and this is what I've come up with so far:

DPO1 - Tach
DPO2 - N/A
DPO3 - 6 port solenoid
DPO4 - VDI solenoid
DPO5 - BACV
DPO6 - N/A

AVI1 - Clutch switch (needed?)
AVI2 - Neutral switch (needed?)
AVI3 - A/C switch
AVI4 - Power Steering switch (not sure how this works or if it's needed)
AVI5 - N/A
AVI6 - N/A
AVI7 - Air temp sensor (upper intake manifold)
AVI8 - Coolant Temp sensor (back of WP housing)
AVI9 - Oil pressure (can I tap into the wire that feeds the dash gauge?)
AVI10 - TPS (S5)

SPI - Knock sensor
SPI - Crank angle sensor

I'll use the onboard MAP sensor, the Haltech wideband O2, and 4x rx-8 injectors unless it's better for me to keep my 680cc GSL-SE injectors as primaries. Stepper output will drive the OMP, whenever I install one.

If anyone can recommend a high-quality wiring harness wrap I can finish the install with I'd appreciate it.

And lastly... where can I get a base tune? Would Haltech have something they can provide? I couldn't find much for NA cars on this forum.

4. Knock sensor option
https://www.irperformance.com/produc...k-sensor-stud/ & add the sensor on top of that.

Clutch, neutral, abs PS switches are necessary. If you want to do launch control, the clutch it a good trigger for that.

You really can’t use the OE gauge sender. I’d recommend getting an oil filter pedestal and adding a 2nd pressure sensor and possibly a temp sensor.

The CAS needs to be wired to the trigger and home inputs. Not an SPI. On the Haltech looms I remove one of the trigger abs home cables abs just use the four wires in one of the cables to run all circuits for the CAS. One cable makes it a lot neater install than two of them.

Email me and I’ll get you a base map.

Out of curiosity, what is the use case for the neutral and PS switches that make them necessary for you?

The neutral switch I would never use. The PS switch, afaik, simply signals the OE ECU the pump has a load applied and thus the load on the engine has increased. This would be used to raise idle speed or even make fuel and timing adjustments. Again, with the nature of the improved control system of the Haltech ECU, I would never use that switch.

I’ve hit a snag with the DPOs again. I plan to use DPO1 for the tach, 3 for the VDI solenoid, 4 for the 5/6th ports, and 5 for the BACV. However, it looks like DPO5 and 6 are already allocated to the fuse box, for the fuel pump and ECR. Once again I feel frustrated this thing was advertised at 12 outputs when I reality I’m struggling to get 5. DPO2 is still available but is fixed to 5v so I don’t think I can use it for anything.

What do people do to work around this? Can DPO2 be used somehow even though it’s 5v? Can I allow the ignition switch to directly trigger the fuel pump and use DPO5 for something else?

DPO 2 can be used. No worries.

Thanks, is this because the output of DPO2 is still ground and I am not using the pull-up voltage? Making it safe to power a 12v solenoid e.g. VDI through it despite it being a "fixed 5v pull up"?

Correct. When the output is “off” it pulls up to 5V. When it’s “on” it pulls to ground. No harm in powering a 12v accessory. I was wondering why you had skipped this output in your previous lists. Early versions of the firmware allowed DPO6 to be reconfigured. They need to bring that back.

I’m planning out the whole harness and have a few questions about sensor voltages. I can’t seem to find them noted in the manual. From what I’ve gathered online, the BACV and vacuum solenoids as well as clutch and neutral switches are 12v, while the TPS,OMP, and intake air and coolant temp sensors need 5v. Is there a place I missed in the manual to confirm this?

Also - I’m trying to find an old FB wiring harness connector to avoid hacking up my own. Anyone know where to buy a replacement GSL-SE 17 way X-07 connector? I made a thread in the first gen section.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati.../#post12452259

Is there a reason to use the Haltech to trigger the fuel pump relay, as opposed to leaving the factory setup intact? In my GSL-SE the fuel pump wiring is in the body harness, so it's all still there. I'd have to cut the body harness or buy another connector to bypass the original relay to use the Haltech setup, and I am concerned that the Haltech fuel pump wiring is a smaller gauge than factory, which looks like 12g to me. It seems like the factory system is the safer choice?

Wiring is making good progress now
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fed6e259c1.jpg

TPS, MAP and the OMP require a 5v reference. Most all temp sensors are going to be 2 wire with connections for signal and ground. The 5v reference for temp sensors is internal to the ECU. Just make sure you use an AVI with a pull-up and that it's enabled in the software. The pull-ups are indicated on the wiring diagrams. SPI have pull-ups but the resistance is different than the AVI. They'll work for temp sensor but require a different calibration.

The 12v connections for the OMP stepper are omitted when using the Haltech. You'll just have the 4 stepper connections, signal ground, 5v ref, and an AVI for position signal.