Haltech E6K/Former Auto FD3S startup problems...
 

hey all... big snag today in my conversion to Haltech... my FD *used* to be an automatic years ago, and was converted to 5-speed. now, we have got the Haltech wired in and set up, but the car won't start at all w/ the key!! after talking to the mechanic that did the 5-speed conversion, he told us that he had been forced to short a wire in the engine harness to trick the car into the thinking it was in 'Park' so it would start, but we don't have the engine harness at all any longer, after converting to E6K... i'm confused as to why this signal is still required myself, as the factory ECU is gone totally, what is requiring this 'Park' signal anymore at all?? any help would be greatly appreciated, we have ground to a standstill...

Did they change out the gauge cluster and all the other goodies that are necessary in the swap? The best thing to do is to do a little rewiring to make sure everything is right. Nothing worse than an electrical fire in your steering column.

There should not be much in the way of stopping the starter from turning. Make sure the E6K sees power when the key is on, if not you should start at the key and trace that wire until you find the interrupt. If you do get power for the ignition next is to check the starter wire. I am not sure how autos are hook up, but follow the starter wire around until you find the interrupt. Make sure all the relays are working and a wire is not grounding out or a harness just got disconnected.

Let us know how it goes.

hey styk33... hmm, i don't think the cluster was switched out during the conversion, i might be wrong but i don't remember having to buy another (this was 4+ years ago now)... just talked to my mechanic again, he says the Haltech is getting power at the ignition, and he can start the car if he bypasses the key/ignition, starts up fine... just will not start up from the key! the former mechanic that did the conversion told me today that he remembers having to 'short' two wires in the engine harness that used to connect to the auto tranny, that gave the car the signal that it was in park, and Ok to start... but the engine harness is gone now (and the regular ECU, ???) but it seems the car still doesn't want to start w/out that signal... we are assuming we need to figure out which wire/pin-out for the ECU plug corresponded to that which gave that signal, and short it there, but it looks like this might be a long, frustrating process... if anyone else has done a standalone computer on a former auto FD, any insight would be greatly appreciated as to how you got around this problem, thanks in advance all... damn, i want to be on westheimer this saturday..

Actually doesn't sound that bad. Atleast you can start yours! :mad: Sounds like something similar to the clutch switch in a manual(can't start the car unless you press in the clutch the same time you're turning the key). The auto would have something similar for park. I would take off the cover for the steering column and start there and just trace to the Haltech connection. Hope this helps...

Don

So is the problem with starting the car or turning the car on (they are two different things). If you turn the key to the on position do you hear the fuel pump turn on for two seconds? If you do then it is only a starter problem and that has to do with the wiring in the car and not the Haltech.

In the harness going to the stock ECU there are two igntion inputs. One sends +12vdc when the key is on (this is the correct wire to hook up to the Haltech), the other sends the signal only when the starter is cranking (this is not the one you want).

It just sounds like you need to trace the starter wire and find out where the switch is that is causing the open.

Rev. Dr. Jay
http://ricemobile.net/