Getting Ready to Send e6k to Haltech
 

I have an 86 GXL that I am converting to a track car. Have a totally rebuilt, street ported s4 w/ ITBs and an e6k to manage it all. I have wired and re-wired all connection points in the harness, have checked continuity thru the harness on all the relevant ignition related wires, have swapped the CAS, have swapped the trailing ignitor and have tried several different ground wire placements all w/o success. I continue to get no trigger signal (or at least no RPM reading on the Engine Data page). I have an old lap top w/ Windows 98 that reads DOS. All sensors register on the Engine Data page and I have a good switched power source at the fender (I believe it is the old plug for the stock adjustable shocks [running Tien coilovers now]). I have all of the settings on the Main, Ignition and Fuel Set-up pages as per Hitman. I am just trying to get a trigger signal, so have not loaded any maps at this point.

I am going to take one more run at it this weekend and then will be sending the ECU to Haltech for testing. The unit was bought from a member on here along with a terminated harness. One thing I was wanting to check again was the ground wire placements. Can anyone suggest good placements for the ground wires--both the engine and additional grounds for the ignitors?

Thanks for any help.

does it stay connected while cranking?

Yes. Though there are times that it will flash "reconnect haltech" when it returns to the "on" position.

Took the entire car into a local speed shop that is also a dealer for Haltech. The verdict is that the ECU is bad. Apparently--and I will not pretend to know the terminology--, the internal trigger was bad and it would not respond to the signal from the CAS. In any event, I will be installing an e6x now and then getting a tune. Hopefully, we will have this baby making some power soon.

Now the plan is to send the e6k to Australia to have it repaired and then try to resell it on here with a certification from Haltech that the unit is again in good functioning order. But, there is a slight moral to this story. I bought this from a member on here and he said he bought it from another member some time back, but never installed it on his personal car. I know it has been on somebody's 7 because the harness was wired for that. Regardless, I am not going to do a third degree on anyone about this, but leave it at this: if you fry your hardware don't go trying to pass it off onto someone else. Everything indicates that this came to me in an inoperable state so the odds are it failed in its last application. Everyone is on there honor here and, though I can afford the inconvenience, I do not like getting saddle with someone else's problem anymore than the next guy. Took me the better part of two months screwing around with this bad unit and the cost of the speed shop to get to the bottom of this. I thought for a good long while that it was just my inexperience, but turns out it was a failed unit. Let's be responsible folks!!

Agreed. And you and I should stay in touch as I will be tuning my E6X to my Hayabusa ITB Bridgeported REW shortly. Steve Kan has offered me a start map prior to a final tune with him but any information we can share would be helpful.

Thanks Racer!Gees a rotary Hayabusa w/ ITBs. Love to see that some day. Definitely would like to stay in touch. We may be going on the dyno as soon as Monday to get a good base tune. Eventually, though, I would like to have Steve do a polish tune when he is out here again. Keep us updated on your progress.

OMG thats like my story!!

I just pulled my haltech and harness after deciding its screwed up, I stepped up to the new platinum though because my tax return covered it. :)

My e6k would wig out and read 6deg coolant, read 6000rpm over actual rpm, the TPS would control the trim knob...all sorts of good stuff. But it would only happen after idling for a couple minutes or so. I also bought it second hand...I may sell it as a 'defective unit' though opposed to getting it fixed and then trying to sell it.

If the unit still fires an engine up and is able to go online with the software, i would spend the money to ship it to OZ and get it fixed so you can sell it for a decent enough amount, and not for loose change. Otherwise its a paperweight.

Intresting you mention this, because this very same thing just happened to me. I was driving my car and then all of a sudden it just quit. I too had no rpm signal on my engine data page, I swapped CAS with no results. I had a friend who also runs a e6k, I swapped his ecu into my car, and it started, so I know my ecu is no good. I just sent my ecu back to haltech today. But I am staying with the e6k, and not upgrading. Just thought I would share my experience as well....

Not a thing wrong with that plan. The e6k is a fully capable ECU. I just did not want to wait any longer to get my car up and running. I also needed to dyno the car so I just decided to plug in the e6x while it was at the speed shop to go ahead with the dyno tuning. As you probably know, the e6k is no longer in production and I could not just replace it off the shelf as was the case with the e6x.

As an update, the motor has been tuned. Get a nice 13.1 :1 AFR all the way up. Could not get torque or horsepower readings as the dyno was apparently throwing errant readings on that front. Maybe I'll get back to the speed shop to get those numbers one day. Otherwise, the motor pulls incredibly. It easily rivals my 3rd Gen, but screams like a banchi. I'm affraid the neighbors are going to start to bitch. This could be interesting once we get her to the track and start to sort this car out.