fuel Trigger temporary?
 

Ok, Stuck and keep hitting the same wall.
Jspec S5 T2 stock 3bar

I read the forums, checked guides none really match mine.
Haltechs E6K wired up Fuel pump ground to chassis fuel pump power to relay, fuse, battery. The pump primes, and what I still cannot figure out, sounds of liquids flowing heavly then STOP.
press/level sensors left alone (on connector)

From what I can hear and we came to the conclusion of is the Green clip by the primarys, top used as a trigger off the leading coil, gets the pump to prime but then it shuts off and losses all built up pressure?

Anyway to diagose this.


Main issue is the car starts no clinking, pinging just super low steady idle 100-200rpm, It's eather one of these three things from what I understand.

Loss of oil or fuel pressure, vacuum leak (i closed them all off), or my throttle.
I get 120RPM on the crank witht he injectors off, engine is running off of that 120rpm.

My Throttle when calibrated gives me 16 on idle and 83 on Full Throttle?
Anyone know what I should double check.

Everytime I test I restabb and crank engine back to -5, with timing off 67trigger 11offset.

Prior to haltech install it ran fine - boost issues, if this is of any use my Greddy e01 is all set to off and auto. with rotary setup.

seems to me you have a lot of noise in your system.


some fuel pumps have a check valve in them that allows the system to have pressure constantly. some fuel pumps dont and allow pressure to bleed. no biggie. make sure you know what fuel pump you have.
if the fuel system is checked and turns up that there is no leaks, you may want to check the fuel line inside the tank. often times this has a leak and is never tracked down.


i cant understand most of your post. can you try retyping it?

The ECU will prime the pump at key on for about 3 seconds. It then shuts the pump down if no attempt is made to start the engine. As said above, depending on the type of pump and regulator, the system may or may not hold pressure. Most aftermarket regulators will bleed off pressure. This is no big deal and doesn't effect a running engine.

Low idle speed is more likely something you changed with the throttle cable, throttle stop, or air bleed.

All good their, air bleeds are fine all attached no issues.

Pretty sure it's a walboro 255, I havn't compensated for this I was sure the haltech did? wrong?

Other then that Another member had told me his was caused by (over)fuel and spark fouling the plugs, causing such an event. As for the fuel system is wired and triggered, getting 8.4ohlms off the coil trigger.

So im geussing, 255 pump flooding beaucse it's not setup for it, my problem? im geussing?
If so it's simple as changing figures and cleaning plugs?
using the s5t2stocke6k map with 4.5ms changed thats all.
Don't recall the guide giving info on this.
http://s12.postimage.org/48ernzard/HPIM3187.jpg

http://s12.postimage.org/6fnlpn5fd/HPIM3188.jpg

Good on the throttle stop and the screw isn't adjusted to that point of 120rpm idle., air bleeds are as so, with no splice or T's.

Will check injectors i asume if not correct, one of them is on all the time causing it to fully flood and engine runs flooded.
off the guide.... only thing is I checked all of them before connecting plugs: all grounds good... from end to connector. made sure all acted as so.

are you using a stock or aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?

Maybe?: the source that you are using is good for 12 volts with key on,but doesn't provide 12 volts when key is put to Start?
I don't know if this will help you but I cruised the interwebz and found this "how to wire up an E6K"
Link: Haltech install

I got that down, it's wired up properly though the relays Im getting a good 12volts, but that pump aint being too smart, still builds the pressure then all you hear is fuel flow for another 3 seconds after prime.

Not irregular not imporper timing, no pings just FUEL FUEL FUEL poor bang just enough to idle flooding. 120rpm.

But mostly fuel fuel fuel with black plugs. jack it up tonight.

Maybe one (or more) of your injectors is stuck open? When mine stuck, my pressure would drop instantly after priming. When cranking it would just smell like fuel and sputter.

Their we go
 

Ok, I tested my injectors are Behold the results.

I wanted to see if they where all closed and the connection was good.
(all 1 of some meters i asume im getting 13 asuming 1.3 or 1.)
I got 14.0 secondary 4 - CLOSED
I got 14.2 on secodary 3 - CLOSED
I got 12.6 on Primary 1 - CLOSED
I got 13.1 on Primary 2 - CLOSED

Mabye it's off beacuse im testing off little wire.

I tested my injectors with the fuel pump on!
I got 14.4 Secondary 4 - CLOSED
I got 14.4 Secondary 3 - CLOSED
I got 14-15.0 Primary 2 - CLOSED
DRUM-ROLL I got 0.0 On Primary 1 - CLOSED

Im getting build up (pressure) (big drop) (low pressure).

My question is? All are closed and im getting 0 on only the one injector when the pump goes on.

So the engine is OFF but power is on Im getting all closed all voltage
Once the Engine is OFF but the Fuel pump kicks in I get 0 volts to my primary injector? If my connector is fine and it gets power why isn't it when the pump is on?

Essentially The engine runs and idles at 120 for the fact but it's not pinging.
Eatherway the plugs need changing, but That is making me question what is wrong.
(fuel was off so plugs need a cleaning now im asuming)
It's getting proper voltage and it's all being powered but the one?

What should I check out ? The pin aside *of course*, from all that information I can't think of a single thing!
Closed(good connection)? Maby the connector for injectors before it hits the (2/2)4x power split?
Im pretty sure all my injectors are correct colored and placed if they wern't ? doesn't explain 0.0

Ok It.... was a bad connection on the bed of nails... It just took some jiggling and 14.4V

The problem from more "reading" *ouch*.

One The spark plugs (black all the way though and even the threads) Foul

AND the other issue if someone here can help me "Aftermarket Boost controller".
Asuming that I blocked off old lines and middle T off my compresser line on the turbo is as well (old boost solinoid).
The SET GAIN start asuming spring pressure is stock but mines been adjust to offer 3,500rpm set.

Does the haltech Give more fuel if the boost solinoid/controller is trying to get more "boost", prior to startup.

Wondering why I constantly flood on key turn. (cannot set my timing still)

My injectors are all correctly in the pins and to the proper injectors and the injectors are all in the correct place as well as the plugs.

So something aside from the fuel pump or the plugs/injectors is causing my pump to prime and flood. (only thing I can think of is aftermarket device or pressure leak casuing it to over-prime).

Only other thing is Im getting 8.7Volts from the trigger to the ecu/fuel pump.


The PROBLEM explained pretty well is It starts.... 120rpm beacuse of bad spark and a too much fuel little spark lots of gas.
I Solved the Spark, but the GAS no, it's not the injetors and it's not wiring and it's most likey not the fuel pump as I had 0 issues and 0 tampering.
Only thing that I can mesion is it's not getting 12V straight form the coil pack Trigger. As it's hooked up to the trigger not the battery and self controller switch. (I again would lose voltage due to lots of re-route and wire lenght bring it down to 10V most likey).

I will double check my Coil work tommorrow but, from what I can tell it's eather missing or running flooded.

Only thing Like the post above is trying to explain is.

I have greddy e-01 Boost controller with RPM Adjustment, As it's currently set to a "LEARN", mode I might just be getting zeros across the board.
OFF, No lo or Hi boost nothing is set to a value.
Anyone have stock Set GAIN values and any more information on haltech works with another boost controller.

The boost controller isn't the issue.... don't worry about that. What does your fuel priming map look like? Maybe it's wrong and is dumping too much fuel in.
At this point you may want to try a fresh set of plugs. But yes, check the coils and wiring.

Good!
 

Ok your right I had that feeling on the boost controller!

The plugs have been changed! black all the way down also on the threads...
New plat plugs for fun... So done!

Ok For my base just ONLINE mode my maps telling me

Fuel map
Range 1 Bar 11
BAR 16 HGT 5.280
Manifold pressure 1.5
42*F coolant
43*F air temp (engine sat -4 - 10C outside)
Advance 23 BTDC (did change up and down a bit? maby problem?)
Trail 20 BTDC (I have it set to yellow marker when i cranked before)
Air/fuel 4 mv
+0.2 O2 lop
.47 Spare A/D
1013.0 Barameter
Everything else is 0 value.

I added some gas and it doesn't make as much noise just prime and very short liquid flow (previous post noise)
I swear it's set for super duper injectors, and it's trying to prime lots? I don't think so.
(It idles everytime....what a teese:scratch:)
SO! If all is good and I should procceed to cranking it again.
I asume I go into data log menu then press D to start the log make sure it's recording, Crank the engine and If it's good, leave the data-log page go into ignition and start my timing?

If, Not Im wondering what Peremters I should use to figure out my Issue.
Or just look into.

You should post the map file maybe some of us can download it and take a look.

I'll get everything I can over the weekend. Only thing I havn't figured out was the Advance and trailing signals? Does this have any measure on my CAS? or interaction.

Ill collect as much as I can run and save the map and upload.

Aside from that someone did pm me a email on the Manifold pressure was too low.
as well as my air fuel, was told est 10-15, but even so that would be much further off then start up prime? I was believing
a low value of 3-7 was proper.

HDL upload map
 

Heres the Map off trying to start
FCTEST1.HDL download - 2shared

Engine cranks but with spark, will not fire and idle.

I did use new plugs and have check, It does fire but im only getting 180 and no
idle now, previously I was getting poor idle But im asumption is eather pressure or too much fuel?

can anyone confirm, If so Could someone please post me a lick on properly unflooding the engine. As im sure It will require a manual release.

What the hell is this file?
"Hot Docs Library" is what google is telling me.

Staight file.
 

Took the file to A-disk to another computer, then teamviewer straight to 2shared.

That's the filed saved off the E6K software E6K vr 4, I saved the datalog to memory, Only thing I can think of it was changed via sending it though computers without the program but even then, it was never modified. It saved as HDL from the haltech.

Did I do something wrong? Only thing I can think of now is, 2shared didn't support and modified, But like I said it saved as HDL, Ill try opening it on mine staight off the web.

:MS-DOS Google isn't too up-to-date with the past. Any solfware won't recognize it, unless you got it. (Mysetup is haltech though MS-DOS using windows 98 for laptop)
Asuming You need E6K version 4 running in MS-DOS mode, to use this file, beacuse thats how mine is.

You mean E6k version 6.34?
Just post the regular E6k file, I have the same computer in my car I can view it no problem. :)

Mis-communication.

Aside from that What I got from my Data-log

12.1 Volts off battery
12 Air *C
-70Pressure Kpa
23 Advance BTDC
9 Cool *C
12 Air *Start

Ignition ON
180RPM < Was 0
-72 to -73 Press kpa < -2 drop in pressure
10.5-6 Volts on the battery < -2 Drop in voltage
8.2 up to 9.0 then down and up .100's Inj MS < Was 0
Advan BTDC 16 < was 23
Range 1 Bar 10 no change.

Battery voltage after no idle 11.9Volts ( use to hold idle )