Fried haltech?
 

Here is how the story went, mabye some of you can shed some light on this before I send it back to haltech.
I've got an 85 GSL-SE with a swapped S4 turbo 2 engine and trans, running a haltech E6k..I still have not yet been able to drive this car since I started the swap (3 years ago). I was going to drive it onto the trailer (with blown oil seals in engine, will be replaced with ANOTHER engine) to make things easier. So we hooked up a jumper pack and amazingly enough it started after sitting for over a year, but as soon as I remove the jumper pack, the car dies. I try charging the battery at that point, and get it charged but it won't start. I come to find out the car is not getting fuel, so I put gas in it and try again, no luck. Then I find out I am getting no spark, so I try to connect to the haltech and it wont connect at all..Anyone have this problem or think they might know what happened? I got an Email from haltech support saying I put too much voltage to the ECU while taking the jumper pack off and to send it back for repairs at my own expense..I have ZERO miles on the entire setup and I guess I will now be replacing the ENGINE,turbo, and ECU all over again..Why did I ever want this car!! I am broke now, but I have not given up yet..

Well, it is unfortunate, but yes, what you've discribed has very often led to failures with a few haltechs. Now, personally i have worked on cars with chargers put on them, and ive cranked and ive cranked and nothing bad has happened, but, i never remove the charger while it is on (never use boosters either). If you cant connect and there is no spark and fuel, you will need to ship it to haltech for repairs.

the charger or booster has likely blown the ECU. Only charge the battery with the ECU disconnected. Some chargers work fine and some don't. I have a small one that I have used without any problems but I never charge the battery with the ECU connected.

they can probably repair it pretty cheap, I did this to my ecu once also.

The number one thing to do here is always always always have a brand new battery onhand with plenty of Cold Cranking Amps that will be sufficient to power your application. Some chargers that use 110V to charge your battery work, if you can lower the amperage that it puts into the battery.

if battery chargers can possibly distroy an aftermarket ECU, there must be something that can be done to eliminate this. i mean, this doesn't happen on stock vehicles with factory ECUs. could a simple jump start do this too?

I was thinking the same thing..Mabye use a voltage regulator or something in line to the ECU.. I am pretty angry with the fact that something like this could take out my 900 dollar computer, and then have me pay for all fees to ship and repair it..

You have a perfectly good voltage regulator in your car. Its called your BATTERY.

Keep your battery charged, and none of this would be an issue.

Disconnect the ECU when using a charger, and you will be fine.

Major car manufacturers have to engineer in alot of idiot proofing. Now I am not calling you an idiot. we have all charged batteries and jump started cars with the OEM ECU connected. I am sure there are some electronic parts that could be added to the Haltech to prevent the over voltage problems. I don't know what they are but you are correct this does not always happen on stock vehicles, but it does happen frequently to stock vehicles as well. when I worked in the auto parts business we sold tons of ignition modules and repaired ECU's. Be smart and disconnect the battery from the car or disconnect the ECU before charging.

You're right.
It's called RTFM.
If you're not following the instructions in the manual, you have no right to complain about what is possible and what isn't.


-Ted

You are correct, but don't blame me for pissing in your wheaties buddy..Sorry for going against your manual, won't happen again.

I think Ted was trying to show you that there is alot of information contained in the instruction manual, and that alot of people who use this equipment fail to read any of the manual. Everybody take a few minutes before installing any ECU to read the instructions it will help you down the road. I have had to reread it a couple times as my memory is not so good.

Understood completely, but what baffles me is that he seemed to have taken offense for some reason. Mabye he will assimilate me now:)

The bottom line, if your stuck in the middle of no where your going to jump start the car. Or at least I would. If your carefull, that is you start the car and leave the cables connected for about 10 minutes after, then shut the car down to disconnect you will probably be fine. If your battery isn't properly grounded to the engine and chassis, it can make damage to the haltech more likley.

BTW I have seen owners manuals for OEM cars and bikes say exactly what the haltech manual says. No jumpstarting and remove battery to charge.

Also that's why the factory ECU's are also grounded to the engine block. It should be the same with the Haltech and sensitive electronics also.
Widebands are also prone to the same failure too when grounded incorrectly.
Doemstic cars are prone to both ecu and alternator damage when jump starting.
It's not the charger's fault but it's the procedure how it's done.