E6X toggle option on ignition
 

I have a E6X, and my car is running pretty good now, but I have both leading firing properly, and only ONE trailing is firing on time. I keep trying to set the toggle under ignition setup to "enable" but it switches right back to "off" once I move the curser. Is this why I am only getting one trialing fire? How do I set the toggle in a e6X to toggle the trailing ignition? Thanks

Is main menu set-up on "advanced"?
Are you running something on the AUX OUT lead?


-Ted

No I am not running any aux out at all, and it is on advanced. It simply wont let me set it to "on" not matter what I try.....

As RETed said, you must use the Aux Out lead for the toggle wire. Set up the aux out send for "ignition toggle"... then see if it works.

I believe this is the green/black wire (aux out on E6X, bypass on E6K I think) which needs to go to the trailing ignitor white lead (per BDC's writeup).

Man thanks so much, that has helped out more than you know!!!!

Ok, just for info... the "internal toggle" should be OFF. The "aux-out" should be set to "ignition toggle". Don't confuse the two. INTERNAL is for 4-cyl direct fire sequential ignition setups. IGNITION TOGGLE is for rotaries. ;) You MUST connect the aux-out to the trailing toggle wire if you want to use the stock ignition setups.

Yeah I had it wired perfectly from the beginning, but was confused on the internal toggle. I have it all straight now, thanks to you guys!

Where do u find the white wire?

I need to set up the aux out on my E6X. Cause the rear traling plug won't fire.

JT

Like my other reply to your thread, check the diagrams from K2RD.


-Ted

I have, the wires are good. They are all hooked upp like the schematics.

But the thing is when i try to messure woltage on the rear trailing input to the igniter. I get 11.2v. On the other two inputs i get 0v. And on the out put to the coils i get 11.8v. This is when the key is in on position.

Im gonna try and hook up the AUX out line to the Traling Rear input line to the igniter, and set ingnition toggle on.

Dude... here, follow BDC's recipe if you don't grok what's going on:

=====================

[Factory Ignitors/Coils Pairs Wiring]
- TAN coloured wires from both ignitors go to an IGN (switched) 12V+ source
(splice into ignitor/coils power source; relayed; refer to my own powering method above)
- The PINK wires go to the appropriate trigger wires from the E6x:
- Leading Ignitor (PINK) - LIGHT GREEN (IGN OUT #1) on E6X harness
- Trailing Ignitor (PINK) - WHITE/BLACK (IGN #2 / DIGOUT #1) on E6X harness
- Trailing Ignitor (WHITE) - GREEN/BLACK (AUX-OUT) on E6X harness
This Bypass lead is called the "toggle" lead. It's used by the E6X for toggling between the front and rear trailing coil.
- The YELLOW lead at the trail-pack is wired to the tachometer.
(Update) - This is the yellow/green w/ red notch lead (thin gauge; perhaps 18 or 20AWG) in the CPU wiring
harness just below the trail ignitor. Since it will be cut when installing the wiring for the K, it will have
to be re-spliced. This requires that the trailing ignitor and coil pack be unbolted and lifted up for harness access.
(Update 5/26/00) - Jon K was able to not modify any of this wiring and his tachometer still worked. It
may not have to be re-spliced.
- When I wired in the power and input leads for both factory ignitors, I re-used the factory
Mazda white connecting plugs for easy quick-disconnect. Each of those plugs houses
the TAN and PINK leads on the factory ignitors.

==================

I updated the wire titles to reflect the subtle changes in the E6X harness but the colors and connections are still the same.

Hmm the wires for the igniter is not Pink, Pink and White

Leading input to ingiter is Light Green, cable 36 from Haltech ecu wich is Light Green.
Traling front input to igniter is Brown, cable 35 frome haltech wich is White/Black.
Traling Rear input to ignniter is Brown Black. cable 34 frome haltech wich is Blue.

I have curently set the Aux Out to show rpm speeds to my rpm gauge.

But does it need the Aux Out to controll the Trailing rear input?

And will it be better then?

I read on another page that the Aux Out should controll both traling plugs. What is correct. Im alittel confused here now.

And i have a FD, hitman, bdc and almost every one els is for a FC. So the same wires are not to be found on a FD.

So what is right.

I know im asking some dumb questions here, but im pretty confused here now.

JT

http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/T03.pdf
http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/IG03.pdf

those should give you exactly what you need.
Good Luck

I just spoke to haltech so it's ok. People should post that this only aply for the Series 4 and 5 engine and not the series 6. Wich use a direct fire mode, and not distributer mode.

But i need an answer on my other question about getting the timing lamp to work.

I need to set the timing corect.

Oh and what does hitman mean with this?

NOTE FOR SERIES 6 ENGINES - the timing check process for these engines is a little different. Some models of E6S and E6K are not adjustable for the timing lock, and some that are cannot be locked to -20 degrees to line up the single notch these motors have at 20ATDC.
The easy way is to lock the timing at -5 and check the timing with the light on T1. This should be firing at -20BTDC (20ATDC) and should line up with the notch directly.
The other way for E6S owners to do this check is to cheat a little. Start the engine and lock the timing at 10 degrees, this is the default timing lock number for all Haltech systems. Now with a timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, check where the mark on the disc lines up. By adjusting the Trigger Angle value make the notch line up with the pointer, remembering that increasing the value retards the ignition and increasing it advances the ignition timing. The engine will die down a bit at this retarded ignition which is normal for now. Once the notch lines up turn the Timing Lock to OFF. Look at your Trigger Angle value and now subtract 30 and enter the new number. For example if the timing lined up at 95 degrees, then a new value of 65 degrees should be entered. Now you are done with zeroing the timing. If you are confused you can email HITman and we will try to answer your questions.


JT

that is good that you got it running however, I don't remember you telling us that you had a Series six engine, you were posting in threads that were relavant to series 4/5, so I and I am sure others assumed the same thing that you also had an S4/5 not S6.

yeah i forgot to mention that, but i have not seen eny thing baout it beeing series 4 and 5 engines. but maybe im blind and could not see it :)

well it's running, but i need to get the timing correct.

i have learnd now, next time i will tell that this is a series 6 engine :)

my bad

JT