E6X Setup?
 

Installed an E6X on an FB with an S4TII. Started right up like it should. Went to zero the timing and found I need to set the trigger angle to ~95* to get the timing zeroed. I'm using a Hitman map. The CAS is installed per the factory procedure and double checked for accuracy. The trigger is setup at 24/11 as it's supposed to per Hitman's instructions. I've installed 3 E6Ks on rotary engines and never had a problem like this. They all lined up with a trigger angle of around 65* like they're supposed to. Anyone have an idea where we're off?

E6X <> E6K.
The E6K has very consistent tooth and angle offset settings.
This does not apply to the E6X.
One theory is due to the RA8 reluctor.


-Ted

Ooooo. So what your saying is that if we get the timing right and it's consistent the trigger angle really shouldn't matter? Thanks for the help BTW!

Or would it be better to play with the tooth offset?

That is correct!


-Ted

"It depends..."

The definition of tooth offset and angle offset is covered in the Haltech manual.

You need to have the angle offset in between 100-degrees and max ignition timing advance.
If you maximum ignition timing advance is around 40 to 50-degrees, you need to have the angle offset in between 50 and 100.

Think of it this way...
Tooth offset is a "coarse" adjustment.
Angle offset is a "fine" adjustment.
We can break this down by...360 divided by 12 (number of teeth) = 30-degrees.
So each change of the tooth offset will affect the angle by 30-degrees.

So, for example...
4 tooth, 90-degree setting is identical (I think) 5 tooth, 60-degree setting.
I might have the relationship wrong (tooth +, angle -), but you get the idea...
Since both are within the 50 to 100-degree range, both can be used.
Now, if we drop down to a 6 tooth, 30-degree setting, it will work until you try to run more than 30-degrees of ignition advance - it just won't do it, cause our angle offset is outside of our required 50 to 100 window.


-Ted

I went back and read the Haltech manual and thought about this alot at work and came up with the same senario you're describing. Thanks again for the help!

For anyone wondering I had a chance to dial the car in tonight. First thing I did was set the tooth offset to 12 and put the trigger angle back to 65. It was about 3 degrees off at that point which I dialed out with the CAS. Timing was then dead on and steady. The motor is brand new. We just ran it around the block below 3000rpm so we haven't had a chance to put a good hard pull on it but at this point the E6X has been flawless. We'll keep out fingers crossed!

Wao, great way of describing it man, would've never thought about it that way.
:D

Thanks dudes!!! This thread came at just the right time, since I was planning on starting my newly 6X'ed car today.

Couldn't get the timing to 'zero' at 5 ATDC during our cranking test yesterday with the hitman settings either....

Now that i think about it, this saturday im going to finish up setting up an FC with E6X so now that i know that the values are a little different ill be sure and post the results here.

Lets see, this is getting more complicated each time i try. I just came back from working on the car again and the dam thing just doesnt want to cooperate. Ive moved the dam thing all over the place, trying to zero the timing, sometimes it takes sometimes it doesnt, ive taken the CAS out and ive tweaked the trigger angles and offset back and forward.

Now, today the car starts funky, rough idle, i pull the plugs out, check compression, bam! the dam rear rotor is missing in 2 faces. :( Im not amused. To top things off the sparkplug wire this car has are crap, or there is something funny with the ignition.

After 2 days of working on it, only one thing proved to be working right, i lowered the gain on the both home and trigger and that made the noise and static go away, but then after that came the other problem.

I honestly dont know if it was the CAS that was in wrong yesterday and thats why the motor blew or flaky ignition settings.

This is frustrating.

I had the same problem the other day.

Signal was never steady during cranking. The timing mark would always jump around so I could never quite get it zeroe'd, even when locked at -5.

:(

Well, got my car sorted out pretty much.
I got tired of Halwin, so I started using the DOS software.

I don't seem to have any more trigger issues.
My gains are set to 1 and 1.
Motronic Mode is set to 'ON'

Works like a charm....

Why did you set motronic mode on? this is not a motronic trigger, unless the filtering works for all types???

It was just one of those trial and error things.
Montronic mode off = bad signal
Montronic mode on = good signal

Tried it a few times, with the same results. So I left it :)

Kool... :D


I might try that.