E6k problems, is it the ECU, CAS or me.
 

Alright so I'm running an S5 TII engine, Stock FC Coils, MSD on Leading, FD UIM with FD TPS. 1600secondaries, 500primaries. Running a Haltech E6k with GM WATER, AIR Temp Sensors and 3bar MAP.

I have 4 major problems and I dont know if they are related to eachother.

While we were tuning it at first we had a problem where the around 5k-6k rpm the RPM on the ECU would jump to 16k for a second. My tuner changed the Home/Gain settings and it stopped doing it but the car didn't feel no where near as strong.

So another problem, at the dyno we used a timing light to monitor the timing mark on the crank while doing pulls and the timing mark would move more and more to the left of the timing cover mark. We tried stabing it OEM 11 way or HITmans 3 way and it continues do the same thing.

Around this whole time another problem I have is the ECU is not responsive, its very laggy in providing information or making changes. Datalogging is pretty much use less its that slow. Did the same thing with 2 different laptops one USB and one Serial Connector.

Now my most recent problem that started when I restacked the motor after hurting the engine after overboosting it, the car hard starts super horrible. Once it start it idles and runs fine but I can't figure out if its the ECU or the engine.

Please help me figure out if I just need to get rid of the CAS or theres something Im doing wrong. I did searches and theres conflicting opinions left and right.Is there a way to run a trigger and wheel with the E6k.

Should I just ditch the E6k and get something newer.

What is the datalogging problem about?

Before I hurt the engine it made 416whp at 17psi tuned by a very knowledgeable tuner. But it the timing mark continued to move. Did I wire something wrong?

I'm really frustrated with the situation, to the point that I don't even want to mess with my RX7 anymore and just let it sit or part it out.

Please help.

first off did you remember to lock the timing with the haltech before using the timing light?
second, those wires have to be shielded. any 16k spike is bad and it's too risky to try tuning without solving this problem.

try getting some updated USB drivers. My first serial cable could load the ECU in about 10 seconds. when it broke i got a new one and the loading took about a minute, after some new drivers and tweaking the hardware setting it's down to about 15seconds.

Yes we did lock the timing on the ECU.

Im using an old laptop that uses a serial port not USB. Only reason I mentioned the USB was because I tried it with another computer to see if it was just because my regular laptop sucked. You think its the serial cable?

it might be the serial cable drivers. with mine if i move a single value there is almost no delay. if i move 10 points it takes a second or two. if i change every value on a map then it takes a couple minutes. is this what you're noticing or is it worse?

how is your trigger set up?
80* BTDC
multitooth type
no. of teeth: 24
tooth offset: 11
trigger input: internal reluctor
trigger edge: falling

BTDC- 75*
trigger gain 2 and home gain 2

Everything else is the same as you have it.

As for the delay. Let's say I press arrow up to add fuel I can count 1 to 2 seconds to respond. The biggest issue is datalogging is so slow...

buy some shileded coax twin and go the long way around the bay avoiding the coils alt and fans for the CAS wiring

tie the shield end to the ECU case

if this doesnt fix the spikes then you may need to buy the ra10 reluctor adapter and thus set the machine back up the TTL / hall signal

if you signal moves with the timing lock enabled then you have a wiring polarity issue in one or both pickups

as for the data lag,, its all in the drivers used ,, though i use a dedicated serial cable machine ( 333 ) for old haltechs and its AOK for me

how is your CAS wiring routed? to avoid interference i pretty much isolated mine from the rest of the harness an ran it around an over the radiator

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...pictureid=8995

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...pictureid=8996

in the second picture you can see all the wring for my injectors etc are bundled together and tucked under the intake but my CAS wiring comes right to the front and across the top of the radiator, thus keeping it as far away from other sources of electrical and magnetic noise as i could