E6K Erratic RPM(while cranking)
 

Using factory S4 CAS with factory shielded 4 core wire. Car was running before haltech swap with no ignition issues. Triple checked my CAS wiring and ignition setup. Checked air gaps in CAS.

Watching the engine display it will show 0 rpm while cranking then suddenly register 400rpm only to drop out again for 2-3 seconds. It does this consistently while trying to start. Turn turn turn turn turn *spark/injector ms online...then offline* turn turn turn turn. This is evident by the tach needle as well. Is this a result of bad shielding? Something with the E6K itself?

As a side note...map sensor is registering 31.5psi of boost with the car off as well. Will have to investigate this...possibly related?

More info...investigated MAP sensor found faulty ground, connected and now MAP constantly reads 25.5psi.

Did a datalog of the car trying to start. For 3 seconds of starting(battery volt drops to 10.6) there is no RPM signal....then the signal displays 260rpm for 1 second, along with inj ms of 8.0 then drops out again for another 3 seconds...then register 260rpm for .5 seconds and repeats the cycle.

At the point where I'm considering installing a hall effect trigger wheel setup...though it seems like so many others have had good luck using the stock CAS, makes me doubt if that's what the problem really is.

Well discovered I cannot use a trigger wheel with E6K...looks like it's either magnet hall effect or the stock CAS, and the stock CAS is probably more accurate.

Going to keep trying to figure it out along with the MAP issue...

http://www.filedropper.com/nostart

Anybody see anything wrong with these settings?
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/ktune/main.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...nputoutput.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...e/ignition.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/ktune/fuel.jpg

Changed trigger type to standard and am able to receive a clean rpm signal, but obviously this won't run the car properly.

I've had this issue with an X, but never the K. If the battery was the least bit weak and the engine cranked slow at all, it just wouldn't pick up a decent enough signal to start. Put a jump box on it and it would pop right off and run like a champ.

You can try picking up an RA10 adapter. This is Haltech's A/D converter. It will install inline between the CAS and the ECU and adapt the sine wave output of the CAS to a square (Hall) input for the ECU. The ECU has an internal adapter built in, but some have better luck with the external boxes.

Thanks for the info ludwig, I had considered the 8509s but wasn't aware of the RA10. Where can I find the RA10 for sale? Appears the RA10 was discontinued...now they have an all digital version. Would still prefer to use the RA10 though, unless a pair of 8509s will work just the same.

They've had the DRA replacement on the price sheet for a year or so. Every time I need an A/D converter though they still have the RA10 and the DRA hasn't arrived. PM if you want one.

I've never used the MSD part, so I can't comment on it's effectiveness. Seems pretty common though.

On the hunt for an RA10, I see a few places online saying they can sell them but i'm going to call to make sure.

If you could get ahold of one I'd gladly buy from you ludwig.

RA10 fixed the issue.