Closed Loop settings
 

Allright... I got's my O2 sensor in and everything is peachy!!!!

I had my base maps really close under 25% throttle, so when i'm cruisin.. i'm only ever seein 1-2% correction on the loop...

the LIGHT throttle, when your pulling hi vac, however, it need to go tune a bit because i', seein 7.8% correction a LOT and i know i never realyl tuned those maps....

ANYWAY.. Was wonder what settings you guys have had luck with.. right now, I've got the target voltage set at 650,

Will not operate above 25% Throttle or Below 1500 RPM

the engine cycles b4 correction at 6

Max enrich at 8
max lean at 8

idle votage at 950 (doesnt seem to do anything)

where does it show you correction %'s?

what haltech are you using?

I have an e6K

On the engine Data Page... there is a readout for O2 Loop %.. (or at least there is now that i went into the engine data page setup and moved that reading into the "displayed" box.. that number shows you weather the haltech is adding or removing fuel and by what percentage.

when it is not in operation it reads +0.02%, which i guess is the minimum value for the haltech.. (i've noticed that even though you set the MAX rich or lean to 8, you will only ever see 7.8.. I don't think the Haltech likes Integers (1.0, 2.0, 3.0 etc)

You see, I know HOW it works.. I'm just wondereing what are the most efficient settings..

I know that if you set the "cycles before correction" to low.. it will constantly be trying to correct itself and throw everything out of whack. Conversly, if you set it to high... you will lose fuel efficiency aw well.. Wondering what the best number is for that Right now i have it at 6

I was wanting to look at other guys settings to get an idea of what the "nominal" settings are.

I'm using an e6x, and slightly modified settings from BDC as per this document:
http://bdc.genxracing.com/HaltechE6K...tes_072003.txt

min RPM: 1700,
max throttle:20%
5 cycles between correction
stoich voltage 401mv
max increase: 17%
max decrease: 17%
Cycles at idle:15
O2 voltage idle:601mv

There's also a parameter start up delay(in seconds) set to 120, not sure what it does.

On my car it takes a long time for closed loop to hit the stoich voltage, I have a single wire O2 sensor. I lowered max throttle to 20% since anything above that is boosting for me, and cruise is 16-17% throttle.

nik-the reason it takes so long for closed loop to hit stoich voltage is because it is a non heated o2 sensor and plus i bet you're running an aftermarket downpipe which doesn't hold heat as well as the stocky. so your o2 sensor takes a long time to warm up. they have to be at about 700 degrees before they actually start working well. here's a tip- if you want closed loop to work sooner get a 3 or 4 wire o2 sensor.

Nik... also.. the start up delay.. that means that the closed loop will not operate for 120 secs after the car has been started, even it its already warmed up.

Here is what I've found after hooking a wideband up to my exhaust pipe (Yes Its in a tailpipe adapter and gives accurate readings)

I've found that a Voltage setting of 670mv gives me stabel O2 reading of 14.2-14.3 while cruising at 65MPH under a steady load. Thats good for me..

I've also noted that if you get down to about 600mv.. the 02 reading gets to about 14.6 or 14.7, And my car has NEVER liked that.. It's generally accepted that stoich for a rotary is 14.4, or so I've read, and, I'm beginning to believe it!!!!

Ive found that 6 Cycles before correction seems to give the smoothest readings, but i didn't try 5. 4 was too jumpy for my tastes.

The Voltage at idle i have at 850, because thats what voltage it puts out when its idleing smothly and the wideband says 12.8. BUT... it doesn't seem to matter what i set it at... because it always shows 850 on the reading at idle (well, once the car has warmed up)


Nik.....

What O2 sensor are you using... My car likes to idle at 12.8 AFR on the wideband... The voltage reading on the closed loop O2 sensor is 852 mV while the car is at idle.. When the car is running at 14.3 on the wideband during cruise.. the closed loop O2 reading is at 640-680 mv... If its gets below 600mv... the car starts to buck because the AFR on the wideband is like 15+

I've figured out why it takes so long for my car to hit stoich voltage. It's because of bugs in the DOS software(I have an e6x). I went into halwin in order to monitor O2 correction %(another deficiency of DOS software). I noticed it was stuck at +17%, and my o2 sensor voltage was reading always around 200-300 mv. So here's what I had to do to get closed loop to work:

Disable closed loop in halwin. Apply changes, Reset ECU. Enable closed loop in halwin. Apply changes, Reset ECU. Now the voltage reading is correct, 0-1000 mv, and the car is actually in closed loop most of the time (as opposed to rarely, if ever). Interestingly, in the Dos software the "air fuel voltage" is now in mv, and no longer in volts. The car behaves noticeably differently now, much better on gas. I'm on my way to a 500+ km tank (pure highway). Definately much better than before.

I just bought a 4 wire heated sensor. VW has them for dirt cheap, I paid 36C$ for mine. Anyways, now that my car is actually consistently able to get into closed loop, I will experiment a bit and let you guys know what happens. I have a Bosch 11027 1 wire sensor. Above 3000 i have my cruise maps tuned to 14.7-15.2 on the wideband. Below 3000 I have mid 13s(any leaner and I get bucking, i have half bridge). In closed loop, it takes out a lot of this extra fuel, but the cycling effect it has seems to reduce the bucking greatly. Above 3000 rpm i have almost 0% correction.

I get about 600 km/ tank(half bridge FC) on pure highway(110km/h) with the following settings and the 4 wire VW sensor.

Target voltage 450mv, lean/rich limits of 10%, cycles 5.

I'm using closed loop at idle now too, min rpm is set to 800, cycles at idle 15, target votlage 700mv.

Start up delay set to 10s works great with the heated sensor. I have my min temp at 75C though, because my car is undriveable(bucking) if it start taking out fuel before its warmed up fully.

Note about the cycles between correction, I can't go lower than 5. What is too jumpy with it at 4? Is it the correction %? or the actual AFR?

Note for e6x users: HalwinX 1.2 cannot enable closed loop correctly, or even change parameters on it. If you enable it, it just gets stuck at max rich correction. HalwinX 1.25 is the only version i've seen work. Now that i've enabled it once using 1.25, I can use DOS software to enable/disable it/change parameters.

450mv... holy crap......... What's the PN on that VW sensor??? It must have a different voltage output range.....

I'm lookin for a better sensor as the response on this one is pretty crappy (whataya expect for $32.50????)