CAS Trigger?/timing? E6K
 

S5 TII 1990 E6K setup (previous setup for S4)
The wiring for this type of trigger system is as follows:
Figure 12- 2nd Generation CAS and timing marks locations
Trigger "+" 1 *Yellow Red Wire
Home "+" 2 **Yellow Green Wire
Trigger "-" 17 *Green White Wire
Home "-" 18 **Green White/Black Wire

prior to build mine was aligned and was running prefectly aside from the boost issues.

DO? I still require to stabb / and re-adjust the angles?
I Saved Hitmans guide.

If I load a stock S5 TII map and run it, won't it be fine with mine or will the E6K mess up my timing? (wasn't changed, running fine before)

Aside from that I should be ready to crank it, all wired up. (anything someone would like to add before I do so)

P.S
(.... If a moderator want's to delete all my old threads, i got no problem... Im honestly asking too many questions(starting threads) in my own opionon.)
Cannot afford seals, if the timing is off that much.

Stab the CAS per the FSM. Set the tooth offset at 11 and the trigger angle at 65. Lock the timing and check. Adjust the trigger angle or CAS position until you get it zeroed.

I didn't change the CAS or the timing belt. (all was left alone aside wiring connectors, and sensors.)

Don't feel like adjusting what was working.

Do I still honestly have too, If I need to sure but reallllllllllllllllllly dont want.
I Understand what it want's me to do but no clue on how.

I understanding lining it up ,then taking the lid off and checking it's lined up position for stabing.
As well as having the pully lined up(yellow line) just before stab.

What I don't get is the tooth and what those numbers are refering too, Im running an S5 N374 same idea...
Unless its simply trying to say line up the dimple with the groove....

you have to readjust tooth ad trigger angles according to where the CAS is now ..there is no "i dont want to" ..this must be done every setup ..if you cant grasp that.. you are way over your head and take it to a shop

Well, thanks bumpstart little harshhhh but Thats all I wanted to know.

.... Should have figured it out... Simply Adjust the Pully to yellow stab it correctly then
in haltech program

Yeah sorry, I just didn't understand that it's 50% mech and 50% program.

Sorry thanks for your help thoughout my setup, your 110%.

Okkkkkkk Last question, will be done! I have rest of instructions on my laptop.

This is refering to the Stabbing part of it.

I Have the pully set to 5 / aligned with the yellow line.
I have the dimple lined up with the grove.

I Would like to know:
When restabbing it I know that I need to say aligned, but What I don't know
is if it's stabbed into the right spot? or is their?

Does the CAS have to be restabbed when aligned into the right teeth or is that just a transfering gear and or is doesn't matter? just the fact that my dimple on the gear is aligned with the shaft?

Affraid! I read that is just is stabbed, but does it need to be stabbed at a set position? inside.

On a side note.
... Once started Ill have time to fully build my profile with my "working" car.
Just need this last peice of information.

Solved my own question:
But on thing remains.

It goes down... aligned only one way.... But only question I have left is...

When I put it down 98% of the way it hits the other gears and it turns 3/4 of single. counter clockwise looking down. As thats the only way it will go, won't budge down it follows internals.

Will it always do that? Asuming beacuse the gears are slanted and will follow the slant.
Is this true? Or did I stab it with something that was un"aligned"?

If it is so.. should I change my offset and trigger?

http://s11.postimage.org/81etgz5z3/HPIM3143.jpg

http://s11.postimage.org/5b5hjs9a7/HPIM3144.jpg