CAS out of phase?????? help me out, my trailing is all fucked up.
 

Quoted from hitmans website

For a rotary engine you should also connect the timing light to the Trail-1 and Trail-2 spark plug wires. With the timing light connected to Trail-1 check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the Trail-2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the Trail leads back to front or you have the crank angle sensor 90° out of phase.

I went to zero the timing, per hitmans directions, '

the leading was nearly dead on, requiring only a slight adjustment of the CAS.

I went to check the trailing1 and its firing, but not anywhere near the marks. I put it on Trailing2 and it was almost dead on with one of the timing marks.

this sounds like the above problem of the CAS being 90 out of phase, but I have it set up per hitmans directions also, so how Do I know if it is out of phase, and how do I correct this????

Easy way to fix: switch the T1 and T2 leads and see if that makes any difference in the way the engine runs (smoother = better, of course). If so, just change the trigger angle to 65+ 180 = 245 and put the leads back the proper way. This has no effect on the leading coils, just the trailing.

You did set your timing with timing lock enable, lock to -5, correct? What is your trailing split set to?

I have not tried to start the motor yet, I figured I would take care of all the calibrating and timing of everything beforehand.

Im using one of Hitmans maps, and I set the timing lock to -5 and the leading checked out.

also, just FYI this is a JDM motor, and I have read there are timing mark discrepencies

also, when cranking the motor, the tach jumps all over the place, super irradically.

I have double checked my wiring to the coils and its all correct.

Wise choice.

There *can* be. Easy way to verify is to pull the rear spark plugs. Find an apex seal in the top hole, mark the main pulley on the pin. Then rotate the same seal to the lower hole, again mark the pulley. Exactly halfway in between those marks is TDC. The stock mark should be 5mm away (to the passenger's side) of that mark.

Ok do you mean the stock tach? Or the Haltech's tach? If the haltech's tach jumps that is BAD and you need to fix that. It is either improper ignition setup (wrong type, incorrect gain, etc) or bad wiring (noise, improper shielding, or miswiring of the CAS). The rpms should not be erratic at all - they may jump from 180 to 220 or whatever but as long as they stay within the same two consecutive RPM 'groups' (Haltech groups RPMs to avoid sending so much detailed data to the laptop) then you are ok. Otherwise, you're proverbially f*cked and need to rethink your reluctor setup. If the haltech tach is fine, and the stock jumps around then perhaps you just reconnected the stock one to the wrong lead or something. The important tach (for now) is the Haltech one.

no, the haltech is reading RPM at a steady 180 while cranking,

I have an autometer tach in the dash, and its connected to the yellow lead on trailing coil. There are no stock guages in the car. I have seen it jump a lot while cranking and when my buddy and I were checking the timing, he said he saw it spin around completely!?!?! But it seams to do it only on initial start, not really contiuously while cranking.


in addition, I made a mark on the pulley on the opposite side of the main marks.

I then connected the timing light to the trailing coils,

connected to T1, for the most part, it fired on the mark that I made, but I also could see the original marks every momoment or so.

T2 was the same, just Vise versa, for the most part, I would see the main marks, but I would also see the mark I made.

this is kind of pointing me in the direction of a faulty coil.

...RFI is being picked-up from something.
You're running street spark plug wires with regular spark plugs, right?


-Ted

Im running factory NGK plug wires for a 82 FB.

but okay, I switched the wires, so trailing 1 is firing trailing 2 and vise versa.

checked it with the light and all looks good.

started flawlessly on the first try. even left the timing lock on by accident and it still fired, it just wouldnt rev very easily. Fixed that and it runs like a champ. rock solid at 800 rpm, no bac and I can turn it down as low at 600. pulls almost 20 in of vacuum, 45 psi oil and fuel pressure, and steady at 180 degrees.

rechecked the timing, and everythign seams to be good.

fucking weird. Ill have to reset the trigger angle.

Is that 20 inHg or 20 inH20? What is your idle timing set to?

did you line up with the magnet or the screw holes?
it really sounds like you're 90 out of phase...t2 firing when t1 should be

with the magnets, and the haltech is set accordingly trigger angle 11 instead of 2 or something like that.

is it possible that my Aux-out is just backwards, and so the trailing is reversed.

and it 20in/hg

If you use the stock Mazda spec of aligning the CAS, it should be tooth offset 11 and offset angle or about 60 - 70 degrees.


-Ted

yeh, that sounds like how I have it set.

doesn't hitman say to line up with the screw holes? 65-24-3 to start.

but wherever you start from, you'll end up in the same place :p:

he changed it recently, with two ways to set it up.

Hitmans, "i dont know what the hell Im doing setup, and lining it up with the screw holes"

and the factory mazda setting, which is how I have it.